355 with F1 problems

Just a few guesses here.

Look to see if you are leaking anything under the transmission. Check to make sure your clutch is bled properly. Also look to see if you are low on break fluid. On my 348 the clutch uses the break fluid for the throw out bearing. You could also have the a bad o-ring for the throw out bearing, or maybe the tripple seals on the shaft are bad.

As for the rattling you are hearing, are you hearing it on shut down of the engine? If so then is sounds like you could have the infamous "fly wheel seal" problem. This is were the seal around the flywheel let's the grease. Since there is no grease in the flywheel you hear the the insides of the flywheel moving around. This thread has pictures of what the inside of the flywheel looks like http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55402.
This thread has an excellent write up on how to dig into the clutch.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27374
This thread is from the old site and shows the grease in the flywheel. It also shows were to bleed the clutch http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/271073.html

The other thing that may be a problem is that your throw bearing is cracked. This has happened on some 355's. Or o-ring for the throw out bearing could be leaking. This thread goes into the throw out bearing issue and has some very good links in it on the subject. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72324

Another thing you should look at is the condition of the relay for the F1 pump. Others have had problems with their F1 pumps failing (EXTREAMLY EXPENSIVE) and the cause of the failure was a bad relay causing the pump to consantly run and eventually fail. So this could be why your gears are being slammed?

If you haven't noticed I found alot of links reguarding the subject using the "search" button. So try searching for things first, as almost everything has been covered at some point in the past.

Finally, fill out your profile, and welcome to Fchat.

 

Have you had the transmission oil changed lately? If not I think it would be a good idea to have the old gear oil changed and checked for any signs of metal in it. I'm in the process of rebuilding the transmission on my 348 as mine was making the rattling sound. Turned out I had a bearing that blew up and went through the tranny. So you may want to have a look at the oil. If you don't find anything it's no big deal because you'll have fresh oil in the transmission now.


AND FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!

 

Well if you read the links that I provided they tell you how to do the flywheel yourself. It's not that hard a job, it's just very messy. Basicly to all you need is new grease and a new seal for the flywheel. In my opinion $2000 to do the job is way too much. The job is almost all labor, and they are charging way too many hours. If the shop rate is $100/hr they are saying it will take 20 hours to do the job. There is no way it takes that long to repack a flywheel. I say 8 hour tops, because it can be done in a day.

The rear bumper needs to be taken off, and that can be done in 30 minutes. Another 30 minutes to take of the muffler. Then to take the clutch off is another 30 minutes tops, and that is if they take a coffee break. Taking appart the flywheel 20 - 30 minutes max. Like I said the worst part of the job is cleaning all the grease out. Now if they have a solvent tank, and just about all good shops do, that is another hour tops. Then repacking it with grease 15 minutes, but we'll give them 30. Now reverse everything, and give them an hour for the lunch break, your at 8 hours. Now the grease and new seal should not cost more than $100 total.

So if they charge you 7 hours of labor, cause we aren't gonna pay them to eat, at $100/hr + $100 in parts your at $800 for the job. If they will do it for $1000 I wouldn't complain, but $2000 is way too much money.

It's that or do they job yourself for $100. Really it's not that big a deal.

 

If your clutch chatters at idle then you've either got a bad clutch installation or else someone has installed a lighter-weight racing flywheel.

What is your car's history? Has it had documented clutch or flywheel replacements?

Was it making the rattling noise when you first acquired the car?

OK, first thing to do is to change out your $100 F1 electrical relay. Forget if it is good or bad, just replace it now with a new one for peace of mind. That $100 relay, when it fails, will kill your $15,000 F1 pump system, among other things.

Next, never...NEVER...drive an F1 car in reverse up the slightest incline. I don't care if you've parked on a tiny slope at a party...doesn't matter...don't go in reverse up *any* sort of hill in an F1 equpped car (because that will burn up your clutch). This is in your owner's manual, by the way...yet many people still don't know it to be true.

If your car has had a recent clutch change, then take the car back to have it done right. Better still, do it yourself to be sure. A good clutch, installed properly, won't chatter at idle.

I'm not sure how'd you'd test the clutch in an F1.

In a standard manual transmission, when you have chattering at idle, you test to see if it is the clutch that is doing the chattering by only very slightly depressing the clutch pedal. If the noise goes away with even slight clutch pedal movement, then you know that your new clutch was mis-installed.

For an F1 I have no clue. Perhaps if the noise goes away as you slowly drive forward...maybe that would tell you if the chattering noise is coming from the clutch rather than from a bad bearing...but I don't know.

 

I'm unsure where the relay is, but the pump... relatively close to the exhaust. (see picture below, which is of the driver side, rear quarter panel) Could something have been jarred, removed or not set correctly upon having the exhaust installed? Or coincidental?
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Relay is located behind driver's seat (LHD) under leather cover.
Below the tranny ECU you will see a trio of relays. The one you want is the most inboard of the three. (i.e. closest to center console)
$100 for a relay as mentioned above is a bit steep. Try our sponsor Ricambi for a much, much better price.

HTH,
pino

 

Good post.

 

Again, not saying your relay is the problem, but here (courtesy of Ricambi):

http://ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=203820

http://ricambiamerica.com/images/157991.jpg
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Nope, just the one on the left.
The other one circled is the same type of relay(same part no.) but controls the reverse lights (if I recall correctly).

You should probably get the car hooked up to an SD1 (or 2) to find out what is going on with the shifting problems. That F1 system keeps track of just about everything, so someone who knows how to read (and understand) that information should be able to let you know what's going on.
Mine carried on for a bit because the clutch was shot, but it never slipped.
Upon disassembly, found the clutch worn to the rivets, and a badly worn flywheel. Just a thought.

 

$100 ?!?!?! WOW! I'll raise my price 300%, and still have room to go...

Just kidding. The relay is $12.50