360 Air Conditioning Issue

Did they put dye in the system and run it or are they just going by where they see a leaky spot ? I usually see oil from a leaking cam seal or cam cover gasket ( or left over oil from one theat was replaced ) puddled up on the under side of the A/C compressor, and it looks like it has been wiped already with some type of solvent where the lettering on the decal is missing. I would have them verify that its not oil from up top before changing the compressor.

 

With the Freon leaking out so quickly, it sounds like a sizable leak and thus it shouldn't be that hard to find. It's the small leaks that are tough

 

I second/third the suggestion that the recharge should have included dye to spot the leak. This is normal procedure to aid in diagnosis of the problem.

 

Unless you're like me and forget to turn the AC off when tracking!

 

Here's what I would do. I'd take a real close look at the condenser to see if there is any other possibility for the cause of that obvious oil spot. Chances are it's a refrigerant leak and the A/C system oil has caused that spot. If you're pretty sure of it, then I would change the condenser myself and have the system leak checked, evacuated, and recharged at a regular A/C shop, NOT at a dealer.

Of course, if you don't work on your own car, you'll have to make a different decision, but changing a condenser isn't rocket science.

Typically you have to use some caution. The hoses and fittings on automotive A/C systems are typically aluminum and they're often very tight. Add a bit of corrosion and you have a recipe for wrecking an inlet or outlet tube. Be sure you're using the right wrench(s) (usually used in pairs) and try not to make a mess of things. Be sure you have the correct O rings or other seals on hand before you start.

Other than the possible cost of paying for a recharge twice, I don't see the downside of trying to get along with your existing compressor. It doesn't look that bad to me and the leak check and evacuation routine should catch any significant leak before you actually put refrigerant in. If it doesn't hold a charge after replacing the condenser, then either change the compressor or try to track down the source of the leak (or additional leak) using an electronic sniffer or some system dye. I'm surprised the shop didn't use either one or the other method already.

That's what I'd do, but that doesn't mean it's what YOU should do. Remember, this is the Internet and some advice may be less than ideal, including my advice.