360 Cam Belts Change

Took some sizes of the pulley, will make a custom puller at work tomorrow. Will take pictures once complete.

 

Ok, just completed my belt change by my self and I can say things went smooth. With the help from Black360's notes it went all to plan. Couple of pointers that I found.

Black360 if you can update your instructions for some sizes you have ? next to.
Timing belt tensioner pulley is 17mm
A/C Belt pulley is 12mm
P/S pump pulley is 6mm

Ok so this job would be much easier with a hoist but I did it with the back end up on car ramps. I jacked the car up using two 2 ton jacks one on each side then slid the car ramps under the wheels once it was high enough and let it down easy on them.

I bought a 36mm socket a Lowes, brought it to work and had it shorten using a lathe. This allow me to work from inside the car and moving the crank to place the timing belts on. Yes moving the crank. The old belts where stretched a lot. The "H" dimension called out 1.9-2.3 mm my car was at 3.9mm. So when putting the new belts on they will fit fine around the cams but when I pulled it down to the crank it was in the middle of a tool. Now some people will pull as heard as they can trying to stretch the belt to go over the tooth but it is just the same if you rotate the crank slightly to let the belt just fit. Remember which way you rotate it is critical. The old belt is stretched so the pulley will be rotated CCW. Before taking the belt off mark one crank pulley tooth to the engine, this will allow you to we which way you moved it. You want to move it CW, bringing the tooth closer for the new belt. Then rap it around and place you new tensioner on.

Something else I did to make life easier was. I didn't drain the coolant all the way to remove the pipe in front of the timing cover. I loosened the clamp on the rad hose under the car, stuck a tiny Philips screw driver down the side and let it leak into a pan. This only drained the pipe and some of the engine, about 1 to 2 liters of coolant came out. Then I undid the top clap on the pipe and moved it to the side. I have include a picture.

One thing I can help with is a cranks pulley puller. I didn't know how hard this would be to remove so the puller I made was a bit over kill. Mine was made out of 1" flat plate, 3/8" would have worked. I used a 1" fine thread bolt in the middle and four 1/2 bolts around the outside. Worked perfectly, pulley came off vary easy.

One last thing was torqueing a 36"mm bolt to 144lb while laying under the car on your back not fun. But here is what I did. Once the bolt was on as far as I can tighten it. I place a jack under the handle and had a friend jack it up until I heard the click from under the car. Work perfectly again.

Well guys I hope this helps the next guy. If you have any question let me know and I hope I can answer them for your. Change all the fluids, new spark plugs, turned the power off, did the boot up procedure and took it for a spin. Ready for the summer. Good Luck.
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Nice work that man! Lovely bit of DIY with the pullers and the socket too. Well done.

 

Are you saying that you rotated the crankshaft relative to the cam shaft?

 

Yes, I am.

 

I'm looking to do my 360 CS cambelts and was wondering how to get a copy of Black360's DIY guide here?

 

Look on page 4, post 69 he gives it to all of us to download...

 

Regarding the $250 sound meter - I know you guys said that you can't use an iPhone because it has a high-pass filter on the mic that limits it to 250Hz -- but that doesn't make sense because you can get all sorts of guitar or bass tuning apps for the iPhone. A normal guitar and a bass guitar both go well below 250Hz...

I bet with a remote mic and a guitar tuning app you can use your iPhone instead of the $250 tool.

Does anyone know what the target frequency is on a properly tensioned belt? Here's a $2 app that will show you the sampled frequency:

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pitchbot-smart-chromatic-tuner/id325505573?mt=8

 

KA- In the workshop manual you can download for free at ferraridatabase.com.

Actual frequencies are 190 and 220 Hz on the longest and next longest spans, explained in the WSM.

 

I haven't (yet) done the belts on my 360 Modena, but I do the belts on my Ducati using a free program on my laptop and a cheap plug-in microphone. Works great.

 

I anticipate using my USB mic and a free tuning program on PC to do it..

 

Let us know how the high tech solutions work. Cheaper than $250.

 

I'm a EE that works in telecom and have some experience with frequencies.

Just got a gorgeous 1999 360 with low mileage (9,926 miles) that I knew would need servicing (that factored into the price), so I used the procedure in this thread and checked the frequency on all the belts and the timing belt. I read this procedure before even buying the car.

Using my iPad4 or iPhon4 with "FFT Plot" $4.99 iPhone App, I was able to measure this:
162Hz on the A/C belt: (should have been 145 Hz, so it's a little bit over tight)
108Hz on the Alternative belt: (Should have been 100 Hz - 8% over tight).
58Hz on the Passenger side Cam Timing Belt: (It's pretty low and should have been 100 Hz - I'm replacing the belt and tensioners with Hill Engineering and will tighten it properly)
??? - on the driver side belt - Haven't drained the coolant yet, but will check it soon.

I used another frequency generator APP to check the accuracy of the iPhone hardware / FFT Plot software and it's accurate within 1 Hz which is completely fine given the range we're going for (100Hz, must be > 90Hz).

Found some frequency response graphs of an iPhone4 that show it not rolling off until less than 25 Hz. Since we're checking for frequencies of 100H or more, the iPhone is completely acceptable. The post above about iPhone not working < 250 Hz is not accurate for today's iPhones. I was able to measure 58Hz accurately with both devices.

Microphone:
I didn't even use a remote microphone. I just put the iPhone or iPad near the belt. I will get a microphone when I'm actually tightening the belt but didn't have one yet when I tried this out.

A big thank you to Black360 for such an awesome procedure.

 

I just tried my Native Union handset and it raised the noise floor and the signal level by about the same amount. Either way I had 40dB of signal over noise floor and can take a measurement either way. Seemed a little easier to read with the Native Union handset across 5 samples, and I bet the newer iPhone5 ear buds would be pretty good too.

 

Just curious, is it better to adjust the belt tension/frequency to the lower or the upper limit (190-220Hz as prescribed)?? Or is it just enough to be in the tolerance ??

 

Aim for the center at 205Hz so you are equidistant from both limits but anything in the range will do.

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205hz

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Great info.
Thank you for posting.

Craig

 

Being concerned about correct resonant frequencies for belt adjustment I started searching for tools to achieve this.

Good references have been made here to physical devices that are costly, and I am sure few want to go that route.

I just received a quote from Clavis in the UK of $1,500.00 (freight included!).

Great tool, but I thought that to be a bit much for such a limited application.

I checked the indicated FFT program for Apple, but of no value to me since I have an android phone.

So I searched the Play Store store and found a wonderful FFT program called FFT Spectrum Analyzer.

It allows great flexibility, and it has a freeze-frame mode so the user can see the resonant frequency

It states the frequency as well so the user can know the actual resonant point.

I am going to add a remote microphone and make a device to hold the microphone so I can lay the phone down while checking frequencies.

That way I will not get the phone greasy or dirty.

 

i don't know if i should put something here, but i think, the 190-220 hz should be the frequency of the longest and the 2nd longest portion's combined.

for example, longest = 115, 2nd longest 80 hz and you are good.

im not 100% sure on this. but 99%

 

Resurrecting this thread. I am looking for specifications on torque values and cam timing overlap values for a 360 CS. I noticed that Black360 attachment is no longer available. Can someone share some specs, or pages from a workshop manual?

 

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