360 clutch query

Dear All
I picked up a 2002 360 F1 spider from a local dealer in November 07. At the time I stated I wasn't happy with the clutch - it didn't pick up from first gear until around 3000 rpm. Rest of the gear changes were spot on. The dealer replaced the clutch as part of the deal and suggested that I let it bed in. Anyway 5 months (plus one adjustment of the PIS setting) later, the problem is still there. The dealer has agreed to replace the clutch again under warranty, which is fine. I did query as to why he thought replacing the clutch again would help - it clearly didn't the last time.

The guy's reply puzzled me. He stated that 360 clutches are not always supplied to spec (they had 2 in stock both not right)?! In fact they were contacting Ferrari directly for a clutch with the correct spec. I'm not suggesting the guys telling porky pies - far from it, I really like the service I've had from them. I suspect the 360 F1 clutch is tapered to ease in the pick up from a standing start but it seems odd that the materials wouldn't always be to spec. Any other 360 owners had or heard of anything similar?

Thanks for any comments.

Best

Mark

 

Sounds like something's up with the TCU, I doubt it's a clutch issue. I know my clutch is soft in engaging when I drive off from a cold start. But, it engages harder and quicker once the engine and tranny are heated up.

C-

 

Thanks for the reply. May be time for that CS upgrade.

M

 

Mark,

I suspect that the PIS was wrong on the first clutch, which would account for the high rev pick-up point when cold.

It's been my experience, (on a number of 360 F1's that I've had), that Ferrari set the 'KISS' point very high, from new, and the dealers tend to follow the same procedure. I've seen them up at 5.6/5.7/5.8,

This causes the car to 'kangaroo' in 1st gear, bumper to bumper crawling traffic, and a very loose, and sloppy, take off when the car is cold.

Get the PIS down into the 4's. Mine is currently at 4.5, and gives the car a nice positive clutch 'grab' at take-off.

It's also always worth while letting the car warm up for a couple of minutes, while you getting your act together before you leave home or office.

 

Depending on the TCU version the PIS is not manually adjustable. The early cars required an automatic sequence to set the PIS using SD2 and you are stuck with whatever the calculation is. Later models allow you to override the PIS to tailor the engagement for proper feel. Depending on the current level TCU in your vehicle I would suggest installing a 2004 level TCU prior to replacing the clutch again. There have also been many concerns of T/O bearings that stick and this will also creat issues particularly on initial engagement from a stop.

 

Mark,
I can 2nd what Donie & Windsock have said, but in my experience there's ways to manually adjust the KIS point regardless of year. I can especially agree with hi 4's for a KIS value giving a good feel. I'd also be suspicious of the throw-out bearing/slave cylinder, if it hasn't been replaced, & if KIS measures don't change anything. Also curious about the ECU file & TCU file in your control modules, just to make sure they're legit for what's supposed to be in there - but I don't think that's a common problem for 360's. I'd recommend a ride along with a tech from your dealer to set the KIS with you in the car, if that's an option.

 

Thanks for the responses. The dealer replaced the clutch with a correct spec plate and he says it now engages at sub 2500 revs with no slip from first. However, he's now unhappy with how the clutch disengages (perhaps the T/O bearing has an issue as you mentioned). So unfortunately, its still at the dealers. Hopefully I'll get a chance to drive it next week and this time I'll take the mechanic along for a ride as you suggest. I had thought about changing the TCU previously and when I checked the module in the car it looked genuine and was dated for April 2002. So I think it has the "fixed" version of the module. If I decide to buy the CS module can anyone tell me if its a simple swap or will the system need to be reset with the SD2 tool by a dealer?

Thank you for your advice. I appreciate the comments.

Mark

 

KIS data is in the TCU, so you'll need an SD2 or equivalent to reset the KIS with a new TCU. Good luck, keep us posted.