Hi team, Unfortunately the season started rather bad for my black beauty - during the first drive of the year the car first threw a slow down after not even 10 min, then started losing power and shortly before the engine cut out the ASR flashed. The car (360 manual spider from 2003, >20k miles) still cranked but did not fire up. Battery was full on startup but then dropped to 12.1V, so might have lost capacity over winter (was on trickle charger). Resetting ECUs etc had no effect. At first the SD3 was unable to connect. After fixing a broken wire we can now get a reading. The car will now start but only on one bank. One of the TB does not get a signal (no clicks). When changing TBs the side does not change, so it’s either the ECU or the wiring from the ECU. We will install a new engine wiring harness as some of the wiring has gone brittle as well as the Technistrada cat ECus. The SD3 reads codes all pointing towards „throttle self learning not possible“. Would like to have my ECUs bench-tested for correct functionality. Anybody can recommend a place, preferably in Europe (am based in Germany)? I have PMd Trev and emailed AV but presumably their inboxes are swarmed by requests. Next idea is ECUdoctors but was hoping you can point me towards someone more local? Or any other ideas what to do next? Thanks for your help!!! ps: would also be interested in some upgrades while I am at it (for example only have one black fob: so more fobs or immo delete).
Hi team, anyone has any thoughts? The replacement wiring looms for the engine have arrived in the meantime, those will eradicate broken wires as a fault. Still waiting on the Cat ECUs to arrive from NZ. However, still anticipating that I will need to get the engine ECUs tested somewhere as all the prework is pointing towards a bad ECU on the right side. Anyone has an idea where? @360trev thanks for reaching out! Not sure you have been getting my PMs/WhatsApp? Thanks for your help everyone, hope to get back on the road soon!
Thanks @eric355, will send you a PN. The engine wiring looms and the CAT ECUs have arrived and we are installing them. Still hopeful that it was a broken wire somewhere in the brittle loom and the car will run on all cylinders after the swap. Still looking for someone that can bench-test those ECUs to confirm they are the culprits…
Hi all, been a while as we took a break over summer to enjoy other things. Let me update you on some progress: In the meantime the brittle engine wiring looms have been replaced (included the removal of the capote) and… hooray now we have a clicking throttle body on the left bank. So, most likely a faulty slave ECU. I know there is a good chance that this can be repaired. Would love some recommendation on what else to do while we‘re at it (e.g. immo off or new red/black fobs?). I only have one black fob for the car (have the code tho). Any thoughts? (—> 2003 manual Spider) Image Unavailable, Please Login
For 360 ECU test/repair work in Europe I had a good experience with https://www.ecutesting.com/ in UK (I consider UK to be still Europe despite Brexit If your car looks as pictured I would definitely throw out the heat exchanger in the middle of the photo and put in a new one, unless it has been changed recently. Google Ferrari 360 engine coolant and transmission oil mixing for more information about the reason. (Or ask me how I have found out why it is a good preventive maintenance
Sorry it's taken a while to get back to this thread but I've been in the USA for the past 8 weeks and only just returned from the trip. I'll report more in a separate thread about what I have been up to! My strong recommendation for Europeans is not anyone in the UK (due to stupid red tape and severe delay with import exports now since Brexit) but a company in Germany which specialized in repairs. Here's a message to me from one of my friends who did the 360 capacitor repair for ticking throttle body fault Quote,"Ecu.de did the repair in 3 working days, Ecu are back into the car which started right away! We haven't opened the ECU as back lid were nicely sealed This company ECU.de is great, they have fixed 7 ECU so far for the Modena Highly recommend (620€ VAT Inc, shipping Inc...)" Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk
Hi folks, been a while since the last update. So remember - the engine of my manual 360 Spider died during a warmup drive - sputtering and loss of power when accelerating from a roundabout and then the engine cut out. Despite trying everything (reboot, fresh battery) the car would crank normal but not fire up. At the Indy, the SD3 was unable to connect to the engine ECUs and after chasing brittle wires in both engine looms I decided to bite the bullet and replace them. Afterwards the ECUs were sent off to be „repaired“ and resealed - and while at it the car received new spark plugs and coils, upgraded F430 battery terminals and yet another fresh Fiamm battery from Italy (doing everything I can to please the car!). Everything went back together and the car started again (hooray)! That was when I transported the car back to me, it had been blocking real estate at the Indy’s place for a year by that time. Happiness was short-lived however as the car now dies after a few seconds/50m drive. This time it sounds like the engine is starving of fuel (dies slowly). No funny dashboard signals and no fault codes show up in the SD3. As the fuel pumps were still original I changed them both for new upgraded ones but the problem persisted. Kind of lost my mojo here and have not been back to the garage since. Will try resetting or bypassing the inertia switch next - any other thoughts? Very grateful for all the support/tipps that I have received here! This is a fantastic community! Thanks!
No disrespect, but you are committing the original exotic car ownership sin. You are throwing new and expensive parts at it without knowing the root cause. Take it to a reputable shop (most likely a Dealer or someone of RifleDriver's calibre) with the proper tools and get a better diagnosis. Good luck
Hi everyone, reporting back as I think I solved the issue of the car shutting down by swapping out the crankshaft sensor on the right hand side. Remember, the car started and idled fine but stuttered and died when applying any gas. Swapped the sensor out (BOSCH 0 261 210 198) and was able to drive the car up and down the driveway just fine after that. Proper road test will have to wait until winter is over. So fingers-crossed she is back and I get to drive her finally again come spring time!
