360 Exhaust Start up sound question

guys, maybe you can help me on this before I bring it to the dealer.
As you all know that when you first start the 360 cold the initial sound from the exhaust is very loud accented crank then quiet it down from there. Recently when I start my car it does not have that powerful boom sound when started and almost sound like the engine is barely started for a second. It goes back normal after a few seconds.
1, do I have a exhaust leak somewhere?
2, it does not seem to have any power lost during driving but could there be?

Thanks

 

Based on the symptoms you've described, it does not appear to be an exhaust leak. I've noticed with my car, the exterior ambient temperature may have something to do with how loud the car is after starting (after cold start). During the winter time when the outside air is around 40F, the car can be very loud. But when I recently started the car around 60F, it does not appear to be too loud. This is just an observation. And I haven't noticed a "powerful booming" sound recently.

 

Thanks, however I park in a under ground lot here in NYC so the temperatrue is pretty much the same. I forgot to mentioned that if I start the car for the second time after it is cranked up for about 10 second the first time, the second time sometimes go back to that loud booming sound on the rank again. So strange. I just got the Timate titanium exhaust and want to make sure that it is at it's peak performance and no leak from the car it self.

 

When the engine first starts the exhaust valves are open so the engine is louder. Also the setting of the engine are different which affects the sound.
Once the vacuum build up then exhaust valves close and the engine sound is lower. If your exhaust valve is not working properly is not able to open fully then the engine souind will be less.

If the initial bark on start up is less, it could be due to a weak battery.

 

How about if my exhaust vacuum line is already pluged since I have a capristo 3 and there is no valves? The battery seems to be fine as well.....

 

Hello,

if you have installed a Capristo Level 3 you will not have the effect of the loud initial sound because the Stage 3 has no valves. As MalibuGuy describes the valves are open when the vaccum is going down after the car is parking. If you start you will have a crying sound for a few seconds, after the vacuum has build up the sound will go more silent because the valves are closed. This effect you will get with all valve controlled exhausts like OEM, Capristo etc.

Many of our customers had replaced the OEM to our Stage 3 because they want a sound which is as much as possible similar to an F1 car. For them the stage 3 was the best choice.

But we can also offer our Twin Sound system for the 360. The system has exhaust gas valves which you can control with a wireless remote control, that means you can switch manually from silent (valves closed) to loud (valves open). For further informations you can visit our website www.capristo.de or send us an email to [email protected].

Best Regards,

Wolfgang

(from Capristo Exhausts)

 

My CS with stock exhaust is doing the same thing. It used to start with a loud bark at 1500 RPM then settle down to idle, but now it is starting with a put-put-put on cold starts in 55 degree weather, taking a few seconds to rise up to idle.

I installed a battery tender but the problem remains. My Ferrari dealer cleaned electrical connections and suggested waiting 10 seconds after turning the key before cranking, but the problem still remains. They have no further suggestions.

Has anyone had the same problem and solved it?

 

Exactly, this is what I was trying to describe. When I first installed the Capristo 3 it was working fine, it's only recently that my car sounded strange.

 

Hello MalibuGuy,

your description is ok, bit it is also right that the car has a vacuum tank. If the car has parked some hours, the vaccum in this tank is lost. Therefore it needs some seconds if the tank has a new vaccum and the valves can be closed. If the car will start again after the first starting, the vacuum is in the tank. Therefore the exhaust flaps in the valves are closed. If there is a leak in the vacuum system the car will always start loud and gets lower after a few seconds. These effect have only exhaust systems with exhaust gas valves.

Best Regards,

Wolfgang

 

I'm confused. When the vacuum system leaks (which is not normal), the car starts loud? And when the vacuum system does not leak (which is normal), the cart starts more quiet? Therefore it is not normal to start loud?

 

If the vacuum system leaks, the car starts always loud because the exhaust gas valves cannot be closed from the vacuum system. If a car has parked for some hours, the vacuum goes also down as well if the vacuum system is ok. So if you start then the valves are also open and the car starts loud. But if you start again a little bit later the vacuum is present, the valves are closed and the car starts without that typical barking.

Hope I have explained it right with my bumpy english.

Greetings from Germany,

Wolfgang

 

So when the car starts for the first time in the morning, it should start loud, right? My CS and hotcello's 360 used to start loud, but now they do not. They start with a put-put-put and rise up to idle. What can cause this behavior?

 

It sounds as if you may have a blocked path issue somewhere in your exhaust path. This could be a partially blocked catylitic converter.

 

My 360 with Tubi NGT is always loud on cold start up, but I did notice that if the car is warmed up the start up sound is not as loud.

 

I am experiencing the same problem on my '02 360 Modena (stock exhaust setup)...

After a service and clutch replacement (the clutch bearing was bad and decided to replace clutch as well, it now works very smoothly !!!) the car 9 out of 10 times starts very quiet... No startup boom, and the rpm settle immediately to 1100rpm...
You can hear the engine sound as opposed to the exhaust sound which is very quiet.

Also when I start driving the exhaust valves seem to be closed all the time, even under load on 2nd and 3rd gear... They only open under load (2nd & 3rd gear and above) and above 6k rpm... First gear they remain closed all the way to 8k rpm !!!!!

Not normal, compared to before service & clutch replacement... They used to open all the time from 3k rpm at 2nd & 3rd gear even at 70% load... Also upon double de-clutch, the exhaust valves used to open up and I would hear cool mini explosions in the exhaust... Not anymore, it just revs with exhaust valves closed ... :-(

Does anyone know the cause why my car is so mild and quiet now ???

My mechanic insists that the system works fine and there is nothing we can do, since it is mechanical (works from engine vacuum)... We removed the exhaust valve connector to test the valves and they open just fine... Only problem is I don't want to drive my car with valves open all the time... I want my car they way it was before service & clutch replacement... Valves closed and opening under load as the system was designed !!!

Any thoughts ??? Thanks !

 

My 2000 360 does the same thing as posts #2 and #7 in this thread (i.e., louder / higher initial RPM when ambient is cold [below 40-45 degrees F] and less so when warmer). I think the vacuum issue has nothing to do with it. I have Tubi tips (mated to the factory silencer). The tips are valveless and thus not part of the equation. I believe / guess there is some temperature sensor somewhere on the engine and when the air temp is low enough some fuel enrichment sensor kicks on which momentarily causes the racing. That is Scenario 1. Scenario 2 is when its cold outside my car doesn't seem want to start right away and cranks a bit longer (not much, but some). Perhaps slightly more fuel is getting dumped into the combustion chambers (or something to that effect) and when the ignition does finally begin, there is a bit more exploding going on in there.

No matter which, I'm pretty convinced its normal, SOP stuff for the car.

 

This subject has been beaten to death on this forum, and mechanics have pulled their hair out trying to figure out what causes this phenomenon (barely running for a few seconds, then kicking up to a normal idle). This issue has disappeared for many people after changing their battery. I had the exact same problem. Temperature was not a factor. The problem vanished the day I swapped out my battery for a new one.

 

Barely running for a few seconds, then kicking up to a normal idle wasn't what the first poster described at the beginning of this thread. It was more the opposite in fact.

 

Actually, i stand corrected -- that is what was described. Other posters took it a different (opposite) direction in the course of the thread.

Regardless which of the two phenomena it is, I can't imagine either can be related to a battery issue. My battery is just a little over 2 years old and the car is both driven regularly and kept on a Battery Tender between drives.

 

Yes. Clear ecu's adaptive values. Do cold start and let idle to fully warm. Do not drive. Turn off, let cool down completely, maybe six or more hours, the repeat. Do not drive. Do three cycles and after that the car should start much smoother and with the nice bark to life then settle down to idle rpm, rather than coughing to life and having to increase rmp to idle. This was recommended to me by james at norwood indy shop in dallas. It worked great for me and my car starts with a fantastic smooth bark now.

 

Hmmm, interesting thread. My car ('99 360) over 5 years of ownership has changed in the same way. Never thought much about it other than I preferred the original behavior.

Personally, in my case I don't think it's an exhaust valve issue but likely more of an ECU or sensor issue of some kind, so the solution described above sounds like the right thing to try first. I have done resets many times but haven't tried the no driving part (in fact just the opposite procedure involving driving several miles at xxx RPM, etc. etc.) so it's worth a try IMO.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thx,

JTW

 

Replacing the battery basically forces an ecu clear and reset, so this may very well be what is really solving the problem.

 

from what your describing it sounds like you got what alot of other 360 owners are expriencing with the low idle at first start up than it catches.if it is i have yet to know a for sure fix for it,i usually crank for a few seconds than shut off than restart than it strts the way it should.

 

check your electrical contact points.

 

might have same issue......it seems fine now.... i tried and reset the ecu and let the car warm up and reset driving values......It sounds like it work for my car