360 F1 not starting ... another of these threads!

You may have enough battery voltage to activate the F1 and fuel pumps but not enough amperage to engage the starter motor. I would recommend removing the battery and having it load tested. Do not jump start the car as many electronics can be harmed.

 

A multimeter will not indicate the voyage or amperage when under load which is why it's best to take it to an auto parts store that has that equipment.
Alan

 

12.2 Is most likely too low, a fully charged 12 Volt Battery will read in the 14.5 range
Put a new battery in and enjoy the ride!
(low cost easy fix I am hoping for you)
Steve L

 

Every one of these threads goes the same way. Some warning signs happen, they are ignored and we push ahead anyway. There is a problem, turn off power clearing error codes and making it difficult to diagnose the problem. The next step is to start swapping parts, no need to take it to someone who has the equipment to diagnose. Besides, if we did that the thread would be done and not ramble on for page after page.

I did a search and there are a number of threads about this problem. It appears that most of the time it is related to the F1 system and are things like system pressure, PIS, etc. You are not going to fix this yourself. If you want to make the track day you need to get your car into the shop ASAP. Besides, even if you clear the error you have a high risk that it will return at the track and ruin your day. My suggestion is go get it fixed by someone who knows these systems well.

 

Short answer is yes

 

Sounds like a bad battery or pump relay..

 

Yeah.. I'd probably throw a new battery in there. I'm replacing mine every 4 years or so in the fall regardless of cranking ability.

 

If you are looking for 14,5volt in a 12 volt battery you are going to be looking for a while. 14,5v is a high charging voltage.

A fully charged 12v battery would level around 12,6v - 12.7v. Each cell is 2,1v and there are 6 of them.

12v is a ''dead'' battery. 12,2v is very close to dead.

but what is more intersting is the voltage reading under load..... Here is where the amperage comes into play.

 

Any luck with a new battery ?

 

I agree with 993turbo, I was thinking "under charge" Voltage. I stand behind if the OP's voltage of 12.2 with no load is compromised and may be causing the issues.

 

Obvious question - did you check the level of the F1 fluid in the reservoir? Any obvious signs of a leak like a puddle on the floor?

Even with the engine off you should be able to cycle through all gears (at least with later TCUs), if you can't the problem is not that the battery doesn't have enough power to crank the engine...

 

Can u tell us exactly what noise u get (e.g. same as if you cut car off in neutral?) and what lights flash on the dash, is the noise in sync with the flashing dash lights, or out of sync?

 

Have someone apply the volt meter to the battery while you are cranking it. If it drops below 10v during the cranking it is indeed dead....as someone above posted, a dead battery can still show 12v with no load on it....

 

Someone posted an excerpt from the WSM back in 2005:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/134711828-post4.html

It's in the workshop manual under the "Electronically Controlled Gearbox - Diagnosis - Engine Start-Up" section.

 

These threads always get over-analysed, yet the above conclusion is usually the right one.

1.keep your battery charged.
2. 12.2volts is nowhere near enough to properly fire up a 360 F1.
3. Change your battery when it's ****ed.

 

It's not the "fuel pump" you hear when you open the driver's door, it's the F1 pump.

It's not priming the system, it's pressurizing the F1 actuator & accumulator.

The logic is for the shift mechanism to function prior to engine start. On start up it selects neutral since you should shut it off in gear & not rely on the parking brake to hold it.

Plus the 360 has fuel pumps, (plural, there are 2)