Yes, another price check thread. Need help with what this car is worth please. 2003 blk/tan Spider 9K miles 3 pedal Power Daytona's Rear leather covering Shields Red calipers Front challange grill Tubi muffler 4 new tires 3 previous owners. Service history back to 2010 only. Last belt 2010. Very clean and well kept. A few tiny chips here and there but hardly noticable. The 3 flaws are drivers seat bolster wear, scratched/chewed up driver door release handle (inside car) and scratched steering column cover by ignition switch. I know it has books but not all the keys. Not sure about tools. Car is not at a Ferrari dealer but at a Maserati dealer. They took it in on trade for one of their new cars. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Id's say it's maybe $90k Well optioned. But it would nice if you had the OEM parts as well. however, since it's missing keys, not likely. Just remember, black cars look better in the shade. Having said that, someone gave a great instruction sheet on this forum (360/430) on how to polish a black car.
I'm new to these cars. Why does someone want a car to have all of it's keys? How much value is affected by having or not having them?
Are there three fobs (2 black, 1 red) and one key or 1 black fob and key? Keys are cheap, - although not OEM, it is the fob replacement cost that is expensive >$2000 if you go through a Ferrari dealership. Or you can have one of the FChat members clone one for you. Does the car have the alarm code card? If you have not already read the sticky at the top of this page, I would suggest taking the time to scan the posts. I found that in answered many questions that I had during my search. Do a search on fobs under the 360/430 section and you will find there are many threads regarding your question. The door handle and the steering column cover sound like they are sticky. This can give the appearance of being "chewed up."
Should have two black and one red fob (master) and two keys. Books are available on eBay or elsewhere or about $200, car, steering wheel, and seat covers with tote runs about $700 used. Tool kit about $600. Does it have the tire inflator kit too? Alan
I found good key information after searching. I believe there was only one FOB (red) that I saw along with one or two individual keys. He had trouble fumbling with the alarm when we were in the car. He had to play around somewhat to get it to start. It was as though the alarm was engaging while we were in the car. Not sure if it had a programming or code card. And yes, the parts were sticky. I'm wondering if the $90K mentioned before is even a reasonable price at this point. I wish it were a more "complete" car.
I didn't go through the boot extensively. I'm not familiar with what should be there. This is a picture of what was there. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The picture you posted show the tool kit and tire inflator. Ask them to open the tool kit to see if all of the pieces are there. My toolkit was complete with the exception of the $120 Ferrari flashlight.
Looks like you have the tool kit (check to see that it's complete -- particularly the tow hook eye in case you have to have the car on a flat bed) and the tire inflator (at least I think that's what's in the white bag) -- I have the spare wheel option so I'm not sure. Obviously no car/wheel/seat cover kit as they always seem to disappear (not sure why as they are no good for any other car unless the previous owner sold them on eBay). Alan
Ferrari flashlight goes in the leather folder for the books and most of those disappear along with the car cover. They sell for about $100 on eBay. Alan
Okay that's good as it usually gets "lost". It's good that you have the red master fob as you can buy any 360 fob and get it cloned by an fChat member. I wouldn't worry too much about the miscellaneous stuff. I purchased mine less the jack kit (mine has the spare wheel option), the tool kit or the car cover but I factored that in the price. The important things are the service history, condition of the clutch (if F1 can be measured at a PPI) and the general condition of the car. Also if it has the original Becker radio but not the radio code you can get that from an fChat member by sending him the radio serial number. if the car also didn't come with the alarm code you can get it from FNA for a $500 fee but they won't guarantee that it's the correct one (ask me how I know that). I just keep my fob batteries replaced every three months and spare batteries in the glove box and the second black fob hidden in the car just in case. Make sure you put the red fob in a very safe place (bank deposit box) as it is many thousands to replace the immobilizer module. Alan
90K is probably "around" what you will pay IMO. If it was perfect and flawless and super documented with a fresh belt/fluids and new tires what do you think it would fetch? Then deduct for what you have identified. Sticky Parts = 1-3K (Who is going to do the work is the thing) Alarm issues/keys = 1-2K Manuals - 500-1K (Used on Ebay) Rear Challenge Grill = 2K (Guessing) Bolster wear = TBD I would get in there and see where they are and then if their number is up in the range of a perfect car 95-105K see if they will fix everything on your list as part of the deal. They might not want to keep it until spring. Good Luck
My bad. Forgot that the flashlight - $100 is still way too much money for a Mag Light equivalent - is in my manuals folder which sits in the bonnet next to the tool kit.
You can get cloned key FOBs for a couple of hundred dollars. How does the bolster get wore out with only 9K miles? My car (2003) had 23K miles when purchased and is now approaching 30K and the bolster is just starting to show a little wear. I would definitely check Carfax. Kind of hard to believe that three different owners, ten years, a wore out bolster and the car shows only 9K. I would definitely make sure the car was not a rental or track car (which would explain the wore out bolster with little miles). Get a PPI and it would be nice to know how much clutch is left.
I can't believe FNA wants $500 for a freakin' code and $2000 for a key. They're out of their minds. Someone also mentioned checking the clutch. I spoke to a F-dealer about a PPI and they said they can't check a manual clutch without tearing it apart. I may move on now that I hear all of this. I would rather find a fully documented car from day one and have all of it's parts. I don't feel right about piecing a car back together to make it complete and a $95-97K car. Especially if it takes $5-7K. I also worry about documentation for resale purposes. If another $5-7K get's me the jewel I would be more comfortable that way. If I'm wrong please let me know. Maybe jewels are too hard to come by these days. BTW, how would I know from a Carfax report if it were a rental or track day car? The report he read to me showed original dealer, owners and a wholesaler. It showed some service history but the car obviously doesn't have actual detailed receipts before 2010.
I think you are going to have serious questions about each car you get interested in. The small stuff mentioned in the beginning of this thread would not turn me off at all. However I would have concerns about the worn bolster and how it got that way with only 9K miles. I would look at service records (even if they only go back three years) and match it up with the Carfax and previous owners. As far as the Carfax and the service records, I would look at the length of time of each owner. The shortest ownership is where I would try to investigate. If it came with the original owners manual, look to see if the first owner filled out the blanks contained in the manual. Look to see where the car was owned, and google to see if there are any tracks or car rental companies specializing in exotic cars (Vegas?? or Texas) nearby, Look to see if the car mileage is consistent in the Carfax. Are the tires original, are they wore out? The worn bolster would be a major concern of mine, as (in my mind) it does not match up with the mileage. You probably will walk, but it is worth at least a preliminary investigation.
I was told that the Carfax said it was originally sold by Ferrari of Long Island to the first owner in California. Then it went to the second owner or wholesaler (I don't remember). It was registered to someone in Alabama but service history (Carfax) showed consistent records in the Northeast during that owner. Then it wound up at Algar Ferrari in PA who sold it to another customer. That owner traded it to where it is now. Tires were just put on by the dealer.
First, I would pull my own Carfax (it is cheap) that way you have your own copy and I have seen a couple of different formats. I certainly would not trust what the seller is telling me without actually seeing it.
You didnt hear it from me but some of us, not me man, but some of us are....FAT Slobs. I know... Ferrari owner right, like red ropes parting and a babe on each arm! Not all of us brother, sure you and me are solid but those other guys over there with the F-U money may not care what they look like. I know, I know, just the visual you were looking for right, sweaty fat guy sitting in your new-to-you car. Who knows what he might have done in there, check for french fries down by the seat rails! LOL I think the OP will be looking for a "few" owner car where he might be able to talk to the previous owners. Well you are in the right place, F-Chat is such a place. If I liked that car you posted I would get a PPI from the guy that was going to care for it for me and get going. It is winter so if there is a deal to be had from the dealer this would be the time. My car had sticky everything when I found it at the Ferrari dealer and they fixed it as part of the deal so these are normal things. Good luck with your search.
Firstly if you have the service book (which I thought you said was missing) the service pages will probably not be filled in (mine were not). If you can find out from the CarFax report who the dealers were then you can try contacting them to see if they will let you have copies of the service history. Alan
I got lucky (sort of). The first person actually filled out the section in the owners manual - which did not make sense seeing the owner held onto the information he filled out and did not send it in. I also found a business card of one of the other owners under the seat. The bad part, was I was not able to reach either owner - phone number changed - probably moved etc. Alan, remember the bucking problem that I had with the car? It ended up being that one of the previous owners (out of Florida - imagine that) had a garage change the clutch setting to read that there was 87% of the clutch left. After brining it to FCI, they did some calcuations off the TCU that indicated that there was only (roughly) 30% left. Once the TCU was reset stating only 30% the bucking was greatly reduced. After purchasing my car, I have figured out that the TCU was monkeyed with, the car had been repainted (not a bad thing) and decently cared for. I am still happy with the purchase as I paid $80K, was able to trade a 348 for the car and feel comfortable that I know what I have since it has been 9 months since buying it. My point to the above is: When purchasing a car - be careful. To the OP: I think you would be well served to continue to look as $5-$7K difference in price will not break the bank. If it were me, I would continue to look for a car that is well sorted out, sold by one of the owners with a good documented service history. As far as the Stickies - no worries - Very easy to take care of yourself. Do a search and you will see how easy it is.
Chris That is interesting -- changing the clutch wear to sell the car -- didn't think that was possible although in the instructions for changing to a CS TCU it says to transfer the clutch wear from the old TCU to the new one. I have been very happy with my CS TCU -- the changes are better at higher revs and I know that the clutch wear should be better than with the old TCU. Alan
