360 sound different after 3 year service???

Sorry, can’t resist!

Dr. Fix says:

“A gas, and here we are talking about air, does not transmit sound as well as a liquid or a solid. With this in mind we can now see what is wrong. Due to all the folding cash that was removed from you wallet by the service manager you are now sitting lower in the car. This new position means that the sound waves are passing through more metal before they reach your ears, with the result that the car sounds ‘louder’ and ‘rougher’.

As a practical cure have an attractive female passenger place her hands, palms down, on the captain’s chair before you enter the car, and have her remain in that position while you drive around. If the noise is still distracting, try palms up.”

 

is the car pushing harder???

sometimes, when air filters are clog they tend to silence the engine a little bit?
if the car is faster than before, maybe it needed the new plugs and new filters and it's back to normal but you got used to it being a little down on power

it has happen to me in the past so thats why i posted the info above

 

Did they do the cambelts during the service ?

think i remember in some very few cases they had got timing wrong when cambelts were done, resulting in engine running rough. This may in turn explain different sound & check engine light

Did you go to main dealer or indy ? I would not accept their excuse for engine light on after paying a few 000s.... that's not good enough

 

Yes, I'm thinking perhaps cam timing if belts were done, but also.. maybe your bypass valves were not working before the service, and now they are... perhaps due to some vacuum line connection/fiddling etc?

Also check... the variable intake connections... need panel off the RH side to verify connection to correct solenoid. But check vacuum lines are connected at engine end at least.

 

Oops! Open mouth, insert both feet...... Sorry! Dr. Fix apologizes for his presumption. As do I.
A while we’re at it so should your dealer. Sending you out on the street with a mystery ‘Check Engine’ light is not good, particularly if you sense that the engine sounds different. It’s a two year guarantee, right? Thus any loud bang followed by a silence is yours to fix.....

If a new air filter replaces a very clogged one the engine will sound louder, but I doubt you have been plowing fields with your car, thus trust your instinct, there could well be something wrong with the work that has just been done.

Anecdotally I had a 360 which came with an after market exhaust system. It sounded like I was dragging a trash can filled with cherry bombs behind the car, it was so loud I couldn’t hear myself complain. Fortunately the welding on this titanium/unobtanium wonder was so perfect it started to fall apart as soon as I got the car. Living in a family residential neighborhood rather than between a sewage plant and a graveyard, I went to the dealer and asked how much a standard exhaust system cost. He had stacks of them, all brand new, all removed to fit after market systems, and he was delighted to sell me one very cheaply. I think he needed the room to store defective tail lights or cam tensioners, or perhaps the sheer weight of OEM exhausts was threatening the floor joices, I don’t know, but we were both very cheerful once the original system was back on. I then drove the car from Canada to Santa Barbara and back a couple of times, and I could actually use the stereo without turning it up to gas mark 12 and scorching the seats.

My wandering point here is that Ferrari, who did a pretty good job designing the intake system, might have done an equally good job of designing the exhaust, and given that the two units are tuned to work together, the whole Tubi thing might be a bit, well, a bit too much. I understand the theory that the less restrictions on the exhaust gas as it flies out the back the more power the engine has to turn the wheels, but I also know that the motor relies on a certain amount of back pressure from the exhaust so that the inflammable mixture in the cylinders has the right amount of swirl as it is squished by the piston. The more swirl, the better the bang, and the more power that goes out the wheels. So, does all this after market exhaust noise give you more useful power and a faster car? Not always I fear....

If you don’t like it loud perhaps you might ask the dealer how much he charges for a standard system.

And apologies once again.

 

Access panel for cambelts did not get sealed properly would be my guess.

Check engine light.........it has to be listed somewhere on their SD3 error pages......go back and make them fix it

 

There was a fairly large thread regarding a very similar situation. The Best Tech on the board (Rifledriver AKA Brian Crall) was involved with this case.

The fellow took his car to the dealer for a major service, and the car did not sound right afterwords. So he took it to Brian and he found that the cams were not timmed correctly. I belive FNA got involved as well. Basicly the dealer failed to "degree in" the cams when they did the service resulting in the strang sound and "off" performance.

 

Good luck with your dealer.

Let us know the outcome.

If dealer is authorised, I am sure FNA would like to know about it as well. Sending client back wiith check engine light is defo NOT what the company is trying to promote !

 

Did not notice you used the word "rougher" before I gave input. The guys may be right about timing. Did they do the Exhaust Cam Timing Variator update as well?

 

Do the exhaust manifolds have to be removed to do the service? If so, then perhaps one isn't sealing well or they even forgot to torque it down? That would give you extra noise for sure!

 

can you do us a sound clip ! for further advice ? or just some photos to admire the 360 !

 

bkmberg - good luck on getting to the bottom of your audio problem. I found my 360 was substantially faster after the 3 year service, and that was primarily due to weight reduction being my wallet was about 8k lighter. I added a Tubi exhaust at the same time, so yes there was sound difference, but otherwise your 360 should sound the same.

 

Hi all !

My first post on this forum , although I come regularly to read on it .

I strongly suggest you check cam timing using SD2 or SD3 tester , check left and right bank . They should both be matched and specs are between 650 degrees to max 658 degrees . Once saw a 360 that had an intermittent problem due to cam timing off , it was set to 659 degree , but would go up to 661 on idle and was causing an error . Wich , should be stored in memory .

Since timing belts were just done and you did notice something out of the ordinary , I figure you know your car enough to notice this difference and would assume , as a technician , that maybe we should look further into the problem .

If cam timing are both within specs , and provided that check engine light is on and still no fault in memory , I would start looking at maybe a cluster problem or an ECU issue , but before swapping parts or doing anything more , I would notifiy FNA , because if after 1 hour of diagnostic you cannot find problem , you need to get FNA involved , so someone , somewhere will pay for the technician's time ....

Hoping this was helpful .

CR
Canuckistan

 

Ya know, I would just bring the car back and notify FNA as others here have advised. The service is a great deal of work, involving removing the engine, and disconnection of many many connections, cables, etc. This is one of those issues where until a set or two of eyeballs can look in and see whats going on, all anyone here could ever do is speculate. I don't know if anything could be off enough to cause any damage, but its possible.

 

Did you ever get this problem sorted out?

 

I have just had the same after a belt change on a 360.
Car was tested and ready to be shipped back but check engine light came on when being loaded onto transporter.
It seems the "technician" put a belt on with the cam timing off by one or two teeth.
Although I thought everything was fine during the service I have just found out a hydraulic cam belt tensioner for the left bank was changed also ($633)
I was told it was broken and not working.
Is it poss for this to happen? I would have expected "it's worne and not working 100%"
This is on an 03 360 with 9000mls

Russell

 

It does sound to me like a possible cam timing problem. The SD2/3 cannot read intake cam timing, only exhaust. There is no reason to think it is one more than the other at fault so the probability of the SD2 showing a problem in cam timing even if that is the fault is 50%. For some reason I have seen more cam timing screw ups in 360's than any other model in my memory. Maybe it is because the pool of mechanics seems to be getting younger with less experience at the time they get into the profession than it has been at any time in my carreer.

The ck engine light being on when the car is released is in my opinion inexecusable. Anyone who has much experience with the SD2 should have seen several instances of a ck engine light without a fault. It happens, it is a glitch. The procedure is to erase faults in the normal way and the light will go out. At that point retestdrive the car sufficiently for the light to come back, then read the faults. The glitch has never happened twice in a row in my experience.

Diagnosing cam timing is just not that hard for a properly equipped shop and can be done without removing any parts. If they don't know how to do that you should be looking for another shop.

When you pick up your shoes from the shoe shop and there is a nail from the new heels sticking you in the foot you dont keep wearing them in the hopes it will go away. Don't do it with your car either.

 

So, what happened? I would love to know......

Or, more to the point, is it fixed to your satisfaction?