360 spider door locking closing problem

Thank you very much for the details Scott.
It took me 3 hours last night to remove a seized passenger side door handle cable, and 3 hours this morning to put everything back together again. Biggest problem, removing the cable end with the white plastic outer sleeve retainer from the latch mechanism, exactly as mentioned by Gildas.

 

Looks like I'm next... Went to go pick up a friend and when I had arrived at her place the door didn't want to open from the inside or out. The door locks seem to be struggling when trying to either lock or unlock but I can hear it at least try from that side. I told my friend that it was a built in lock out feature of the car to only allow girls that are at least a 9 or above in as passengers. (She knows I love her to death and was kidding. ;D) I just need to somehow get the door to open so I can replace the cabling and clean the latch. I've tried everything in the tread so far but no luck. If anyone has any other ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

 

Get in there with a Dremel and a high speed thin cutting wheel. Cut the cable, then start cutting on the clear plastic piece. You can get it out of there in two minutes.
I have done this many times already with my and other cars. Just be careful. Get the wheel very close to where you want to cut or grind before you turn the Dremel on (just to be on the safe side).

 

My spider's passenger side door has a problem - opens fine from the inside but the outside latch has become detached from the cable very close to the latch.

I took as much as I could of the inner door panel off this morning - very frustrating job and I still could not get up far enough inside the door to re-attach the cable to the latch.

I could touch the cable with my finger tips and get it through the hole in the latch (unsighted - just by feel) but couldn't get the cable to stay put in the end of the latch....

Hope that makes sense

My question is

1) how does the cable attach to the latch - there seems to be a 90 degree metal piece crimped onto the end of the cable, but not sure how that is attached to the latch

2) can you access this from the outer edge of the door - by loosening the two screws just below the latch (shown in pic 10 in post #6 above)

 

Bump, this should be a sticky

 

Great info, same problem just happened, but mine is the passenger door and is closed I can't get it to open. Any suggestions?

 

you can try and remove as much trim as possible from the inside and then get your hand with a flat head screwdriver inside the door to try and open the lock from the inside. I went through this ordeal once, not the easiest thing to do but it is possible.

 

My passenger door seems to be difficult to open compared to the drivers side (LHD Car).


FERRARI 68602600 DOOR OPENING OUTER CABLE (SEE NOTES)

I looked at Ricambi and it looks like Ferrari no longer sells the cable by itself, only the entire lock mechanism with the cables and it is $352.61.

Anyone know of any other sources?

 

One should be able to make one up from a bicycle brake line with a bit of ingenuity but also possible to force WD40 and then oil through to free up your existing cable.

 

Morning,

Is this the same issue/behavior that is being discussed here?

https://youtu.be/OE6jepJTvzs

(Please watch the video with volume turned on) I searched the forum and saw a few posts regarding the common door issues with 360's, nothing for 430 and I understand the mechanics are the same. However, this issue seems different, at least thats my take on it.

I am not able to lock/unlock both doors with the remote, the door lock keeps cycling, clunking noise. I am able to open both doors from inside using the door latch. I cant lock/unlock using the key either, same behavior as the remote. Is the Locking Actuator causing this or just a sticky cable?

Both outer door handles have the right amount of play..they are not loose, cable seems to be intact.

Any advise/input is greatly appreciated

 

Went to drive the car today and the drivers side door would not open. I used this thread to see how to remove the door card and fix the door lock cable which came loose. It took much me longer than it should have but without this thread it might have taken much longer. Thanks Scott for posting the detailed steps with pictures (ten years ago...)

 

The video is helpful but two (2) concerns-
a) can barely hear you
b) you are moving everything with such speed it is a bit hard to follow

 

Consider a lapel mike so your "Northern European" accent will not cloud what you are saying!!!

Little slower with the demo so one can follow what you are doing.

Great work

 

Hey Scott. Just wanted to say a MASSIVE thanks for this perfect write up. I live 140 miles away from my nearest Ferrari garage and I didn't fancy doing that journey whilst holding on to my non shut door !. Followed your instructions and sorted it myself. Cant thank you enough. Top man. Regards Steve

 

It's my turn for the door opening outer cable !
It is most of the time the passenger side, logically because less used ?!
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Very useful thread

 

Not sure if this YouTube video has been mentioned before....



On the subject of locks, I've been trying to figure out the operation of the door key lock barrel microswitches which can be seen in this photo

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I see that as the barrel is rotated, cams come into contact with the 3 microswitches at different times. I'm just wondering if anyone has any details on when the 3 microswitches are electrically open or closed (when the key is turned).

Here's a theoretical diagram of some of the door internal wiring I prepared earlier (see switch "4M"):

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One of the 3 microswitches on the lock barrel is not used.

The orange/black wire going to the door connector, I believe, matches the black wire on the on the microswitch plug. I'm not sure about the other wires. Perhaps someone who is working on their door at the moment could check this wiring for me.

Thanks!

 

P.S. For info... I've indicated in the diagram above that switch 11M controls the instrument panel door open warning light. At 9:30 in the video above, the technician mentions a second function for that switch... i.e. it controls the window drop when the door is opened.

The two pin plug in the photo below is 11M

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Something else I'm not sure of is the "mechanism" which keeps the warning light illuminated with the door open. Once you have pulled up on the internal/external handles to open the door, the mechanical bits presumably return to their original positions when the handles are released. What keeps the door warning light illuminated? If it is timer-influenced, does the warning light extinguish after, say, 3 minutes? (I don't have access to an F360/F430 at the moment).

 

May I get in line to get help once SoftwareDrone figures it out?

 

Is this is part of my problem, the cable sheath is sliding in the hex retainer?

(Sorry about the quality of photos)

Door latch in the closed position:
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Door latch opening, cable sheath retracts into hex nut:
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Should I take the cable out, clean, lubricate and secure the sheath in the hex nut?

PS. is all this black sticky stuff around the trim OEM or something somebody added?

 

The black goo is oem. The stuff is nasty and tough to get off.


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