360 360 spider window drop and door lock problem

I had the same bizarre behavior from my window ECU a few years ago. I think it was caused by opening and closing the door dozens of times without starting the car. I also didn't have a tender on at the time so that could have played into it.

I suggest resetting your window ECU. To do that, turn off the battery for a few minutes. You'll also erase your drive cycle in the engine ECU so the car will run crappy for the first ten minutes after starting it again. I wrote up this article on resetting the ECU's. Probably missing something but it works for me.

https://www.ferrari360.org/2021/04/ferrari-360-self-learning-cycle.html

Window ECU Relearning
Perform for each window:

1. Keep window down button depressed for at least 2 seconds after fully down.
   
   
2. Close the window in one motion, keeping the up button depressed for another 2 seconds.

If this doesn't fix it, then you may have toasted your window ECU. I looked it up a few years ago and the price wasn't killer but it wasn't cheap either.

 

Interesting. I thought the setup was like this:

Image Unavailable, Please Login
i.e. the red wire was not switched and the switches on the other wires were "normally open". Is it possible that the switches are wired like this:

Image Unavailable, Please Login
i.e. the switches are normally closed unless pushed, but, using the red wire as the master, only one switch needs to be pushed to get open circuit?

If it's not like this, I need to somehow redraw my door wiring diagrams.

Just curious... Do the door pillar switches go open circuit when you push on them or closed circuit?

 

The alarm thinks the doors are closed and locked. That's why your alarm is triggered when you open them. The door pillar switches talk to the alarm system and they are working normally. It's the Window ECU which thinks the doors are unlocked/open all the time.

 

As you probably know, the window drop system gets cues from multiple components. We just have to find the component which is in common with the doorlock system.

The doorlock actuators will "bounce" if the actuator can't extend to its full length for some reason. i.e. something is blocking its path. This could be because the door is not latched properly on the striker plate. Does your striker plate (on the B pillar) look ok? Can you latch the door mechanism in the closed position with, say, a screwdriver (don't use your fingers) with the door open, then try locking the doors? You may have to push the pillar switch to stop the alarm sounding.

Please disregard. I've figured out the answer already. The switch is closed when the door is open (this provides an earth for the door lamp).

 

I would certainly recheck the key tumbler switches and do a few more tests before buying an expensive Window ECU. Some folks have temporarily fixed locking problems by loosening the striker plate on the door pillar.

 

Affirmative. Your description didn't sound completely correct.

Is it like this:

Image Unavailable, Please Login

i.e. with one ohmmeter probe on the pin on the red wire and the other ohmmeter probe on any of the other wires, pushing on the corresponding (single) microswitch, the continuity will be broken. i.e. you don't have to push two microswitches to lose continuity.

 

Do you have my door wiring diagram?

https://www.dropbox.com/t/X6pUpq7uhXxra2SM

Unforunately, the tumbler microswitches are hard to check from the main door plug because the microswitches are contacting cams with 3 different profiles. When you turn the key, the microswitches are being operated at different times.

 

Cool... Thanks for the update.