360 Strange door lock issue

The lock mechanism as I understand it has two components, a motorized lock mechanism that locks and unlocks the actual mechanics and a switch that tells the system when the door is closed versus open. When you close the door, in teh lock mechanism, there is a "striker" that hits the rod on the door jamb, rotates and then locks. When this rotates when the door is closed, it contacts a microswitch in the lock mechanism... thus telling the ECU in the car that the door is "closed". It's not like the old days when the car used the interior light pin to tell if a door was open or closed.

I'll bet the 4 pin connector connects to the door lock motor and the 2 pin connector connects to the microswitch. The microswitch is stuck open or closed, or has resistance across it and the computer can't tell the "status" of the door.. thus it cycles open and closed.

Basically whomever had it before did a half @$$ repair and just diconnected it. They should have installed a new lock which from ferrari is too expensive, but from fiat the part is cheap. Looks like from a late 90's fiat will work (can't guarantee this though.. ) I want to say when I researched this in the past that Punto lock parts were equivalent...

Fiat Coupe Passenger Side Door Lock VGC | eBay

ebay.co.uk has more parts...

 

INside lock button (small one inside the inner door handle just to make sure) is a mechanical connection to the lock! I don't know WHY they took this approach.. but they did. I guess for redundancy.. anyway, the secret to get it working well in my experience is to adjust the threaded coupler below the armrest in the door. It seems to need just the right amount of tension on the line to get it working right.

First though, there is a little lever with a spring on it on the rear of the window regulator. The lock button pushes the threaded pushrod (under the armrest) that then connects to this lever, than then pushes up on the lock to lock the door. Make sure nothing is disconnected in the door.

Then, close the door with you inside and only the armrest open. Turn the threaded coupling to lengthen or tighten the rod. THE THREADS ARE OPPOSITE A NORMAL SCREW (righty loosen lefty tighten). You'll have to play with it with the door closed, lock button up = unlocked, lock tab down = locked.

AC compressors are known to go in these cars. That's what I would assume as well if you have enough freon and oil in the system.

 

Usually mixed in with the refrigerant. Again.. I don't know as much about this area except that the compressors have been known to go per what I've encountered on FChat.

 

Whats the latest on the lock situation ? I have a very similar problem and NEED a solution

 

Jon any pics of these 2pin and 4pin connectors and their locations ?

 

Jon,

It would appear that some monkey has mucked with the lock in the past. See the goop on the lock circled in red? That ain't normal. Would be surprised if it's been opened up and played with. Bottom line is for it to work 100%, get a new or used one and replace it. See original lock picture in white.
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mine wont open on the remote and the door locks itself (has done it to me with keys in ignition and me OUTSIDE the car)
Locks work fine if you use the key but remote doesnt work and then when the door is open the lock cycles through the lock/unlock process - or at least you can hear it trying.

It spent 6hrs at a dealer and they (wont mention the dealer but they are not any good) and they couldnt find a fault or a way to fix it....desperately need this fixed, its been months now and its driving me crazy

 

Im getting the car back next week, will try this the instant shes back and respond. I couldnt give two **** about the door symbol, I want the remote and mechanisms to work above anything else.

thx

 

Infinity Jon, easiest way is to call parts recycler and they can give you a good price on a used unit. That's what I'd do aside from a new lock from Ricambi.

Da Wolf- when you get the car back... take inventory of what functions work and what don't. There is a part or a microswitch that is stuck, confusing the system. I predict its the microswitch as Infinity Jon has experienced in the door lock mechanism. It's "stuck" in the closed position, so the system thinks the door is closed and thus tries to lock it when its ajar. It COULD be the ECU that's gotten funky.. but I'd wager on a lock issue.

Anytime the system doesn't complete a cycle that ends with lock or unlock, it will cycle again and may do this 2-3x. It's because the ECU is confused. I've had this happen when I installed a new window regulator and the interior handle door lock button.. the shaft to the lock was too tight and the system couldn't pull it enough to close it.

Door opens with key
door locks with key
door opens with outside handle
door opens with inside handle when door closed
door unlocks with inside button, locks with inside button,
door unlocks/locks with remote
etc.

This will tell you where the problem lies (handle microswitch, stuck/tight cable, etc.)

 

Ok so car spent hours in the specialist today who confirmed:
* All locks working as should - so problem not mechanical
* That theres no signal getting through from the fob for locks but is for alarm and immob
* Drivers door unlocks with key, passenger doesnt (drivers door holding back signal)

Worked the problem back to the green control ECU box under the dash and thinks that the ECU has got so confused over the last 9mths or so that something has burnt out (continually performing the same cycle which you can hear) and fused inside the unit making the car permanently think it needs to lock which is why anytime you close the door irrespective of key location the doors lock up.
Says I need a new green ECU unit and hopefully that will rectify the problem, if not he will need to work back all the wiring to find a fault which will take HOURS.

Another interesting side to this mystery is that the interior light doesnt work when you put in door function. If you click to on, light works fine. Flick to door mode and open either or both doors and the light stays OFF. Its like there is no signal being sent to the light unit from the sensors in the door jam....related to lock ECU I hear you ask ?

Im getting to the end of my VERY short rope is all I know.

 

Isn't the interior light off a pin switch in the front of the opening? same as any other car.

 

yeah you press that pin and the light (if on) should go off and vice versa but mine does nothing, irrespective of door position.

 

Sorry to hear that this is bugging you.

1. I presume that you tech checked fuses#70, 73 and 74 behind the drivers seat
2. I presume that while checking the function of the locks mechanically, he attached a multimeter to the door locks and confirmed that the switch closes the circuit when the door is closed at the 2 prong electrical connnector. If he hasn't done this with the door open and closed 2-3 times and seen a difference.. then I wouldn't consider the diagnostic complete.
3. If fuse #70 isn't burned out, then I'd change the door switch to the light on the drivers side door and then see how things work

My rationale for above: The ECU argument is hokey to me to be blunt. It's a simple circuit that uses simple logic to operate. I don't get how it could be "confused". Granted I could be wrong but I don't see how it could have fused in the ECU's in the absence of a major power spike. The wires to and from the door are going to be continuous in provided things haven't been modded. I've seen it's usually a sensor, a corroded connector or a something simple before it's an ECU.

 

great remote diagnostics curt and no he didnt hit the door with a meter to check there so when I am back next week thats exactly what I shall get him to do.
I did say the say regards the ECU. The door lock can be heard clicking and wirring like its cycling through the door lock procedure so I cant see how the ECU could be shot or why would it be doing this ?

A new door sensor for the light could be in order, let me check Ricambi