I'm still getting used to my 360. I'm not complaining, just curious about what others are experiencing...... I imagine that on most cars, when you push the gas pedal down half-way, the carb's open-up half-way as well. 1/4-throttle = 1/4 open-carbs, 2/3'rds = 2'3rd's, etc....a linear progression 1:1 On the 360 it seems the pedal only travels about 2.5"....and the power is 50% on when you are only 20% into the throttle. Maybe I'm not used to it, but I'm finding the power comes on VERY fast...almost too fast. Also, after the pedal is past half-way, there is virtually no sense of greater power, acceleration or sense of "more open carb's"...seems the carbs are open 100% when the pedal is depressed only half-way. The last 50% of travel on the gas pedal is all dead-zone...or so it would seem. Do others find/have this "issue"? Can the computer re-map or adjust this? Is there anything I can do about this? Any mods or after-market stuff available for this? (please don't highlight this and type "get a 430" )
I have experienced similar conditions with my 360 as well as a bit of overreving. I realizded some was due to foot slipage on the slick OEM pedals as well as foot positioning on the accelerator pedal. Also, as I drive the car more I find I get more comfortable with the interplay with all 3 pedals as I am double clutching up and down. So I purchased new pedals from www.ultimatepedals. com ( a sponsor here) which I am tonight attaching. They are machined aluminum with rubber tabs throughout the pedals which will provide a better gripping surface. I'll let you know if this helps. You might want to try it as well.
Please let me know how that goes.... Do you also find the last 50% of travel in the pedal offers no difference in power/acceleration?
"Do you also find the last 50% of travel in the pedal offers no difference in power/acceleration?" No that I do not experience. This may be a synchronization adjustment in the accelerator throttle potentiometer or maybe this part might need replacement. My acceleration is very smoothly progressive with advancement. It's the deal with the pedals I did not like. Changing to BMC filters amde a huge difference in the low end.
I am under the impression that...given 360 is drive by wire and the ECU would control what the pedal travel translates to actual throttle application and fuel mapping...it could be 1:1, but most likely not. On my CS, the standard and race mode clearly have different throttle mapping as the throttle response is different. It would not work like a carb car with physical linkages. Another example is on my remote control cars, I have the ability to program the rate of acceleration depending on what I like. On a loose track condition, I want to less torque to the wheels so I don't overpower the traction of my tires, and on a grippy track condition, I want full power asap. The programming all resides on the radio transmitter, which is like our cars with drive by wire. The same concept applies to BMW steer by wire so that your input/assist on the steering wheel is less when the speed is higher and more at low speed or stopped.
"The same concept applies to BMW steer by wire so that your input/assist on the steering wheel is less when the speed is higher and more at low speed or stopped." I believe that's referred to as variable ratio steering. I don't think that's the same with the throttle although the concept amkes sense. Maybe Steve's sender is out of calibration or is bad.
Steve, Your pedal sensor must be having a problem. There is no end to my throttle, and it is a smooth progression up the range. As to the new pedals, I like them, but they are a bit tougher to install than the instructions indicate. What else is new? The three OEM pedals are a cast aluminum alloy with a sturdy rib in the center. So, the holes they suggest to use for the anchoring are not good locations from the way I see it. I used the ones further further out away from that center ribs. I also did not like the round head screws they included. So, I purchased 10/32 X 1" flat head stainless steel screws with crown nuts. This way the screws are countersunk in, and they do not interfere with the rubber grip. They are very nice and give a much sturdier feel to the pedals. The rubber bumpers add considerable grip as well. This was of primary concern for me. The accelerator pedal is about 1/2"-5/8" wider than the OEM which is very nice. Get your throttle mechanism checked, Steve.
Smells like a couple hundred dollars....more fun to just trade cars with another friend who has a 360 as well...the old comparo test! Another related issue is starting from a dead-stop. I'm usually quite graceful with the manual transmissions...but this car is presenting some challenges. I don't like slipping the clutch more then necessary. With this car, if you don't give it enough gas it almost instantly stalls, literally just stops cold in it's tracks...and if you give it too much gas it launches-off with a bit of galloping. The only solution is to just let the clutch slip a bit more then I'd like. The Capristo exhaust really reports just how much the rpm's are running-up before full engagement too. Eh...I'm probably just bickering around too much trying to make it perfect. If anyone drove with me they'd say everything seems just fine. Again, I was just seeing what others had experienced. Btw..I've had R/C toys for quite some time...and yes, it would seem like it needs some reduction in sensitivity in the proportion control. Undoubtedly it's something in the computer setting. I have no doubt that's where it is. Not the potentiameter....just the programming. I'll look into it, thanks!
I don´t experience that at all. 50 % down on the pedal or 100 % is a HUGE difference in power and sound. Although the engine is weak on revs below 4k-5k.
Just take the car to your dealer or trusty ferrari tech, and have them run thru the cycle to reset the throttle postioner. Remember that the 360s are pretty much all computer controled, and it will learn the driving habits and such of the person driving it, so if it has been babies around, the pedal will be sluggish on response etc.. and vs versa, if it has been driven like it should, it will be quick The whole process takes @ 5 min, and does NOT require a SD2 its a combination of key turns, and pedal pushes in a timed sequence. -a PS I dont know the correct combination, so please no ask I had just watched as it was being done to my Modena
"If anyone drove with me they'd say everything seems just fine" I think based upon what you are relating I'll pass on that!!! Get it checked! Spend a few bucks at Bondurant driving school. I think you need it!@#%^$
I'm just having some mechanical issues that I'm questioning (after all, it's 1st-generation throttle-by-wire), hardly a call to rudely suggest I need driving school...buy hey, it wouldn't be a bad idea and maybe we can get a package deal and you could get some etiquette classes thrown in for yourself? What do ya say @#%^$? (just playin it back at ya...j/k) Btw.....the boys want their car back Image Unavailable, Please Login
I first want to apologize to Steve for the comments I made here about him needing to take driving lessons. They were unnecessary and without consideration. I have attached a drawing of the accelerator mechanism. It is quite complex as you can see. Maybe your linkage needs adjustment or the synchronous motor (#15) might need attention. Image Unavailable, Please Login
again, remember the throttle body is controlled by the computer, you are better off resetting the throttle body sensors (which actually control throttle position) before messing with the other.. just my few cents.. -a
Yes you need an SD2 to reset the adaptive parameters. Key cycles and pedal pushes do nothing. If you had a problem with the pedal potentiometers then you would have a check engine light garanteed. And NO the throttle response is not linear. There is a map for the throttle just like there is amap for the fuel in the engine SW. It is how it is designed. You can't change it. People buy ferrari's for the name then drive them and come to not like everything about them. It will take some time but you will get use to it.
I owned two 360's from what I read (since you are an experienced gearshift driver) you need to take the car in. My gearshift 360 was a very easy car to drive, never stalled or experienced anything that you have.
Greg, thank you for clearing-up the misunderstanding and for sending me one of the most genuine & sincere apologies a person could receive. I'm keeping it as a format for apology letters when I get in arguements with my wife....it's that good!!! ....but seriously, thanks. Just shows how text can be interpreted in different ways. Thanks also for all the help and insight. Aaron & Morrie....I think you guys are both spot-on with your assessment. Between the computer, linkages and other adjustments.....I'm fairly convinced this is something that can be tuned-up to par. I just wanted to see if others came along and said "that's how my 360 is, deal with it, you'll get used to it"....since this is not the case, time to take it in. Thanks to all...I'll post a follow-up. Btw....is it just me, or is this car's A/C beyond amazing????? You can hardly hear the fan and even at level 2 I'm freezing: LOVE IT ...but after level 2 it doesn't blow any colder, can that motor be re-mapped???? JUST KIDDING...
Its hard to respond when we dont know who you are, so I will just say, I kindly disagree on a few parts. -a
Steve R! Sorry for bumping back this old thread, but I’m going through the same thing you were going through in 2006 with your 360 regarding the throttle response of my current 360, with what I feel is too much power too early when the accelerator pedal is depressed. Steve R! Sorry for bumping back this old thread, but I’m going through the same thing you were going through in 2006 with your 360 regarding the throttle response, with what I feel is too much power too early when the accelerator pedal is depressed. What was the outcome for you? Were you able to remap the throttle response or change the output of the pedal itself to remedy the issue? I really feel like this one thing, will make the car such a better city driver
Hi, was there ever a solution to the above? Can the throttle bodies be reset? I had a similar problem yesterday. Took my 2005 360 F1 Spider out for a run and it would hardly accelerate over 60mph. From standstill up to that speed was very responsive up and down the gears. I had no engine check light. Has anyone had this problem and how was it solved? Many thanks.
