Are you sure that that isn't something that you (your account settings) determine? I have/use a free Dropbox account, and all the files that I've uploaded are always there.
If I haven't mentioned it before, these diagrams come with some caveats: Some of the wiring is unknown (e.g. the internals of things like brake pedal switches). In this case, I will usually put a "TBC" (To be confirmed) notation. There are country variations which I haven't listed Some diagrams are incomplete (some diagrams would be just too large to show all the wiring) The diagrams should be used in conjuction with the WSM-style wiring diagrams. They help with things like plug location. There is some ambiguity about the location of the 2G & 3G fuse/relay blocks. The WSM may be in error. The diagrams are always being updated as new information comes to hand. I do prefer to be asked for diagrams when FChatters have specific problems. This way I can point to the diagrams which are related to the problem. They are not always where you think they would be. e.g. The power sources for the Instrument panel are found on the Headlights diagram, not on the Instrument diagram. Anyway, here is a zip file for an early coupe which includes my latest diagrams: https://www.dropbox.com/t/GmqGPhaWvOptxToq If anyone has a problem in the future, however, I do recommend that you ask for the latest versions.
Not 100% sure, Steve, but I usually get a reminder saying the 7 day limit will be removed if I "upgrade" my account. I assume this means pay for something. (EDIT: just tried to upload a file and found these buttons... Image Unavailable, Please Login Definitely $$$. Maybe it's an Australian thing.
There are clearly mistakes in the original diagrams. I've done my best to correct them, except when access to the real car is required to resolve an issue. I haven't worked on the 360. There are cases where wires magically change colour at one end. The maxifuse holder near the battery which is shown in the WSM diagrams doesn't agree with the one shown in the Owners Manual. I don't know if there are car variations or if one is wrong. Some of the diodes shown in the WSM appear to be wired up backwards. I have wired them up as I think they should be.
Yes, maybe your being in a different country makes a difference. My screens look a little different, and I have the free "DROPBOX BASIC" plan and not the "DROPBOX PLUS" plan (and I "upload files" to my Dropbox account and then am able to "copy link" which I can then post on FChat -- not "transfers"). Are you sure they aren't just floating a bunch of "UPGRADE" buttons all over the place? Can you select a different expiration time using the dropdown arrow next to the 7 days without pushing the UPGRADE button?
Hey Guys. I have the same problem.. i cant find a wiring diagram for my 2003 360 modena. I would need it for the whole engine section, because after a small fire i have to rebuild parts of the wiring. i already bought the whole workshop manual with 2751 pages. but there is no wiring diagram like i know from older cars. Can someone please help me.
How much of the wiring is damaged? Wouldn't it be best to buy complete wiring looms from Ferrari? The Workshop Manual wiring diagrams show you where the harnesses go and how to wire up the plugs. I was also familiar with the older type wiring diagrams, but I had to learn how to read the new type. I have created some older type wiring diagrams for the 360, but: 1) There will be variations between Ferraris delivered to different countries. 2) There are numerous errors in the workshop manual. The new Spider wiring diagrams corrected most of the errors, but you don't have a Spider. Also, is your car an F1? 3) I cannot guarantee complete accuracy of my diagrams because I have never worked on these cars. You will also have to learn how to interpret my diagrams. 4) I don't have a complete diagrams for some systems (e.g. lights) What do you mean by the "whole engine section"? Do you mean the entire engine bay? Do you have photos of the areas which need repair? (It may be best to start a new message thread). Here are some engine related diagrams https://www.dropbox.com/t/MzqIF2r2vrXZm3ni https://www.dropbox.com/t/vEBX4eXJCUTrGZUh https://www.dropbox.com/t/t86IPflUnCbAKR2U (Instruments) There are, of course, suspension wiring diagrams, lighting diagrams, F1 diagrams and ABS/ASR wiring diagrams which will have parts in the engine bay.
Thanks a lot.Really amazing work your done. Yes its an F1. I bought a spare engine which comes from the same model (2003 Modena) as mine. but also a accident car wich was hit on the left side. so the damage on the wiring is on the left side. But i think i got everything i need on the drawings you create. maybe the diagram from the F1 would be helpfull if you have it?.. does anywone know how to delete the immobelizer
Try this one: https://www.dropbox.com/t/19JbjsUqT7bX9mCm Note that I sometimes attach plug graphics to my diagrams. These are a mirror version of the WSM plug graphics. WSM graphics show plugs as viewed from the wire. I usually draw mine from the contact (pin/socket) side. Probably best to ask @360trev (if he's not too busy)
Hi Qavion, I'm looking for a 360 spider ECU pinout and/or wiring diagram for acceleration pedal potentiometer. I have a returning code for accelerator pedal position & when back-probed into the wires at the potentiometer found an intermittent 3 volt in the ground reference for signal 1. Intermittent as it wasn't there the first time I got the code & checked the signals, & then went away some time after I found it the second time checking. I tried changing potentiometers with a spare while the 3 volt remained with no change. Thank you in advance
My 360 spider Instrument diagram has a basic pinout, if you can find it (see far left/middle, marked 13D): https://www.dropbox.com/t/HuH4OdipcFxzhLuK I'm sure I've seen a better one somewhere. Image Unavailable, Please Login All the wires seem to go directly to the RH Motronic ECU ... except one power wire is spliced into an optional fuel tank pressure sensor "5L". So you were measuring the voltage on pins 3 or 6 to chassis earth with everything powered/plugged in? Image Unavailable, Please Login (From this WSM diagram, I assume the + is power and the - is earth) Note that I've added the pin numbers, but I don't really know for sure which pins are for "potentiometer 1" and "potentiometer 2".
That link all agrees with what I've found. I can add that my understanding is; Pin 1 is Signal 1 Pin 2 is 5v Reference Pin 3 is Signal 1 Ground Return Pin 4 is Signal 2 Pin 5 is 5v Reference Pin 6 is Signal 2 Ground Return Correct, I was measuring voltage differential between Pin 3 & negative battery post with everything plugged in when I first found it. This morning I have driven again & the problem returned. With the vehicle running & without pressing on the pedal, back-probed into the potentiometer connector on the main harness side, both Pin 3 Ground & Pin 1 Signal had an additional ≈4v. With potentiometer unplugged & back-probes still in main harness (ECU side) connector, the ≈4v dropped to ≈0v. I then plugged in a known good sensor & the ≈4v returned. Also RH ECU has been replaced recently & this problem existed prior & post replacement. Any ideas would be very helpful! Your diagrams are very much appreciated. I see you've added "see also Engine RH harness diagram" below the ECU. Would you have a full pinout for the ECU? Below are screenshots of the scope with sensor plugged in & unplugged. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The ECU pins are spread over a couple of diagrams, but the Instrument diagram I provided a link to earlier should give you the wiring between the pedal position sensor and the ECU pins. https://www.dropbox.com/t/HuH4OdipcFxzhLuK I've simplified the wiring a little bit to save on the number of lines drawn, but just follow the wire colours. Strange. Wouldn't that indicate a high resistance in the earth wire (on pin 3)? Image Unavailable, Please Login I would check the resistance between pin 3 of the pedal position sensor and pin 24 of the RH ECU. Image Unavailable, Please Login "1L" is the upper or outboard plug of the ECU (depending on whether you have a spider or coupe) If high, I would look for bent pins on plugs 12D/19D and 6G/11G. Let me know if you need a hand finding these.
Here is 12D/19D Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login (as viewed from wire side of plug). Look for the brown/blue wire on pin 8 Here is 6G/11G behind the RH seat. Should be just above the fuse/relay blocks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Look for brown/blue wire on pin 16
I don't know how significant the spiked line is on your traces (I've nothing to compare it to). Since the "unplugged" image still has the spikes, we can assume that the ECU isn't causing the irregularity by supplying an irregular voltage (Also, you've tried a known good ECU). Either the oscilloscope has an issue or a voltage is being induced into the wiring or a faulty earth wire is upsetting the readings. Do you know if the wires going to the pedal position sensor is shielded with braid or something similar.
Sorry for the confusion, it appears that the RH ECU on this 2002 RHD Spider has a different pinout. You hit the nail on the head though. I wasn't able to find the specific ECU pin for the return ground but using your connector diagrams I was able to do a voltage drop test between the potentiometer & pin 16 of connector 6G & narrowed the high resistance down to that section of the loom. It seems that in disconnecting & reconnecting 6G & 12D for inspection, the problem has resolved itself. I've taken for 2 long drives now & so far so good - so I would assume a poor connection in either of those connector pins. At the very least, if the problem does return I now know where to look. As for the voltage spikes, I was suspicious on those indicating a poor ground so I cross-referenced with another 360 & it appeared the same. I put it down to noise in the battery negative terminal that was being used as a reference. When I used 6G connector pin as the reference the spikes went away. Your help is greatly appreciated!
Excellent! Glad you found it. Strange. I wasn't aware of any differences. I have OEM wiring diagrams for an early coupe and a 2003 spider. Could it be that the continuity test didn't work because there was an open circuit at that 6G/12D plug? My pleasure. Thanks for the follow-up. Always happy to have a "win".
Sorry my mistake, I'm new to working with the electrical systems of these cars. I was working on perhaps miscommunicated advice that the ECUs crossover banks, but taking a closer look at the illustration in your RH ECU wiring diagram I see that the RH ECU is in fact on the RH side of the engine compartment, & only the MAF / TB crossover. Makes sense. That would make it the LH ECU connector that I'd checked for the corresponding pins.
I have a similar issue to one of the initial posters in this thread, whereby the coolant temperature goes up and both fans start up, but then as the car heats up further, the left fan stops and then the car overheats. I have looked at the workshop manual version of the "wiring diagrams" for both fans, the relays in the fuse box, the temperature sensor and the deviation relay on the right side radiator, but it is almost impossible to draw it out schematically or envision the circuit diagram to understand how its wired up. I would like to see the schematic and understand the circuit for the high and low speeds and how both fans are controlled. It should be a straightforward circuit, but the Ferrari WSM makes it almost impossible to trace and understand! If someone has a circuit diagram for the cooling system, I would be eternally grateful!!
Even with the circuit diagram, it's very difficult to understand. I'm still not sure of the operation of the thermoswitch (I've even ordered one so I can experiment on it, but it's going to take a while to arrive). You haven't specified your car, but I'll post the later version 360 (Spider). https://www.dropbox.com/t/PIvrgBOWldzotVBR Use in conjunction with the WSM "wiring diagrams" (so you know where everything is). Your fuse numbers may be different, depending on your car. Link expires in 6 days. Let us know if you need a hand reading it.
