360 Wont start?

'01 360 Spider F1 will not crank. It has a one year old antigravity battery that's always on a tender, except for the last 3 days since I knew I would drive it today. So, the dash lights up, it get "check ok" and I go to crank and the only thing is a low hum from the right rear of the car. But, if you let go of the key, as if the car started, the hum continues till you turn the key off. Seems like a starter motor or solinoid is stuck but you need to turn the key off to make it stop humming. I drove the car 3 days ok with no issues.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

Seems like most people are pointing to the battery. Hum? An $800 battery that's 8 months old with an $80 tender on it almost all the time. I guess, it makes sense. I do have a volt meter I can check voltage when cranking. I did plug in the tender and it had the two yellow lights on, which is normal for first hook up (at least for me). Photo. It's been a few hours and it's finally up to one green light on which I believe is close to normal. But did see like it took longer than normal to get in the green. I'm a little nervous about using my power box, jump starter. I'll try and start it this evening and I have high hopes. The folks on this forum, I beleive, are a little more savy than the normal car forums.
I'll post results later. Thank you for all the responses. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Last night, the tender had more lights on so tried to start it. Same low hum and nothing.
I'll check the brake switch but I do know, the PO changed it out just before I bought the car, about 2000 miles ago. The car is in neutral and I did try to put it in gear (just to see if the gears shifted and starter would activate) but would not go into 1st.
I will check these recomended things, later today or tomorrow, when I get some more time.
Oh, I also tried the antigravity remote start button. If the battery is going dead, it saves enough charge to start it. But did not work.
Thanks and updates coming shortly.

 

"This switch also operates the brake lights. You don't want the lights to come on a full brake brake pedal travel, you want them to activate with the slightest push. Are your brake lights working?[/QUOTE]
OK, I did a quick little test as described. Checking for brake lights. As you can see from the photos, space is limited till I move the other project (electrical is all pulled out) car out so I can open the doors on the 360. But, I turned on the ignition, pushed the brake pedal with a mop handle and no brake lights.
I'll continue tomorrow with a followup. Thanks to Qavion and Extreme 1, I may be on my way to a solution. Otherwise, I try the battery tester route, also from Extreme 1.
I'l post results when I know more, Thanks again for all the responses.
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Quick update: I pulled the other car out and got under the dash to check the brake switch. So easy to remove. I tried starting the car, while holding the switch in with my thumb, dangling under the dash. Same result, no start. Brake lights came on but maybe because I did the imobilizer this time. So, then, I had my wife try and start the car while I listened, with the deck lid open for where the hum is coming from. I had my hand resting on the right rear trim panel and I could feel a little bump when the hum started and again when ignition turned off and the hum stops. Photo shows the area. The wife had to go to work so will explore more, with the panel off, hopefully tomorrow.
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Yea, I messed up. I had in my head. when you push a button in, it turns on. Tried it again, this morning and with the button all the way out, nothing. F1 pump does turn on to pressurize, "check ok" then the hum. Feels like a solinoid or relay opens something, then the hum, then releases it when the key is turned off.
So, I removed the brake switch (blue with 4 wires) and put in the orginal white switch. The PO swapped it just before I bought it and said the whites were prone to fail but it was still ok. Same thing, nothing.
On to the continuity tests. For the blue switch, Terminals 1. and 3., not pushed in, is no continuity. Push in the button (brake pedal all the way up) and has continuity. 2. and 4., not pushed in, has continuity or brake pedal pushed and car should start. The white switch was identical results. So, 1 and 3 are the opposite of 2 and 4. When one is charged, the other is not.
I do appriciate you hangin in there. If there's something else I can check?
Thanks, Bob
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Pin 1. looked like the lower left, so I started there and guessed at the rest. Yea, I also thought the switch was OK then started thinking, maybe there's no power going through it. Maybe a fuse. Then you repsond with great diagrams pointing at relays and fuses. I may check for 12v at the brake switch leads before going into the fuse/relay area. Just easier. But, I did kind of discover something. I removed the rear trim tins and had my wife try and start the car. Seems the hum comes from the F1 pressure resivoirs and more research says that the clutch will disingage when you turn the key on. I think, you said that also. So, that vibration has to be the clutch activating and the hum is the pressure pushing it. Also, the F1 pump comes back on during this.
OK, back to the real problem. Yes, I am starting in "N". I believe, even if your in 1st, the car will automaticly go into "N" when starting. I'll start checking relays and fuses, today and report back.

The PO had it painted orange. Every car he had, he changed to Mclaren orange (I believe, w/o the pearl) and was going to purchase a Mclaren next.
Thanks for the replies.

 

Results are in: First, I checked the connectore on the brake switch. One side had 12v the other had only about 8v. Not sure why. Then went on to the relays and starter fuse. Fuse was good and had 12v when ignition went to crank. Notice my diagram has the starter fuse one position down. Swapped relays and nothing. Tested starter relay for continuity on pins 3 and 4. Good. One thing I notice, that I don't think matters. Sometimes, when trying to crank, I get the little red indicator that looks like a car with the trunk open. But maybe, the F1 pump is still priming. Other times, it's not there. Not sure. Haven't fully tested. So, I'm kinda back to square one unless I missed something that was recomended? Thanks for the help.
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No, Thanks to you, I know my driver window circut is working perfect.
But, I do have another "Head scratching" update. Yesterday, I'd called the shop that has worked on the car in the past (clutch replacement/F1 pump). They recomended checking power at the starter as you also did. So, The main power cable has constant 12v. The trigger wire has 12v as soon as you turn the ignition on and "before" cranking. Everything I know about starters is, the trigger wire only activates during cranking. Hum?? I also turned on the ignition with my hand on the relay and I can feel and hear it clicking.

I still need to check the fuse on the passanger side. Since that fuse is hard to get to with the car close to the garage wall. When I tested the brake switch, I disconnected it and tested the pin holes on the wiring pigtail. I need to test more and verify I was reading 8 volts.

I am concidering that but confused as to why the trigger wire goes hot as soon as ignition goes to "on". I may take the starter out and bench test it.
The Ferrari shop also said that second thing it could be is the imobolizer system.
Oh, I also remembered to test an earlier suggestion. Check voltage to the 12v terminal, behind the seat while cranking to see if there's a voltage dip. Dosen't appear to be.
I'll test more on the things I missed and check back tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated. Bob
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