360CS drivers door wont open

Here's the exploded parts diagram for the 360CS. The door opening mechanism is #69. The cable is #6.
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I just changed the cable leading to the exteral latch a few months back. Not overly difficult, but you will need some good lighting and some patience.
It's odd that neither handle works though since I believe the external handle works on a completely different set of hardware (cables) as compared to the interior handle. Perhaps you have a bigger problem?

When my exterior handle cable broke, the lever felt very light with only spring tension. It was obvious that something broke inside.

I've often wondered what would happen if the mechanism that slightly lowers the window when you start to open the door were to fail. Seems like it would bind up the door. I have no idea how this mechanism works, but wonder if thats the reason why BOTH the handles fail to open?

 

No, there are at least 2 small screws on the bottom edge of the door that you won't be able to access.

Sounds like the lock mechanism itself that failed.... the single item that both cables run to.
Or, just incredibly dumb luck and BOTH cables failed (unlikely).

Sounds like a trip to the dealer instead of running the risk of forcing the door and shattering your glass.

 

If you can lower the window down, perhaps you can reach the door latch mechanism with a coat hanger or similar tool through the glass opening slot. All you would need to do is grab /hook one of the cables and give it a tug most likely.
I would also lift the handle into the open position and then bang hard on the door panel to create vibration, hoping to loosen the latch which is simply being sticky. This has worked for me in the past.

 

Fist thing to do is pull off the arm rest, just grip the end nearest the back of the door, and a sharp tug will see it lift, then slide it backwards. Once off, you will see a cable and a metal rod. The metal rod locks and unlocks the door, the cable opens it. With luck, you may find the cable has come off the handle (Usually caused by door lock failure) and you may find some shards of yellow plastic proving this fact. Either way, pull the release able swiftly forward and see if the door will open. If not, you are in for a big Job! Proceed as follows: Lift the rubber strip that runs the length of the glass, at the back of the door. You will see two small allen-key screws. Remove them. Then remove all the screws you can see that hold the silver door pocket on. As another poster has already pointed out, you won't be able to remove this because it's screwed on from beneath the door. You should now find the pocket quite loose, and you should CAREFULLY be able to pull it away from the door slightly. At this point, go around to the outside of the car and remove the outer rubber that runs the length of the door. Pull it sharply upwards from the mirror end. It's a good idea to tape a piece of newspaper on the outside of the door, to prevent the now hanging out rubber from damaging your paint! Pull the door trim from the back end of the door sharply upwards, it will release slightly. Work yourway carefully along the door until as much of the trim is released as possible. Now put a wooden wedge between the plastic inner of the trim and the door frame, to keep the gap open. Carefully peel back as much of the foam water protecting sheet as you can. You will see about 50 m.m back from the mirror, an allen-key securing the glass to an alluminium channel. Release this with some mole-grips (or cut down an allen-key wrench to fit) and remove this screw. Switch on the ignition, and bit by bit edge the window down with the switch until you can see the other allen-key screw near the back end of the window. Remove this now. Also remove the 10 m.m bolt you can see, and remove the silver coloured bracket from the rear window runner. Now your glass is free to be removed. Gently lift the BACK END of the glass until the whole thing is loose. Lift the glass out at a 45 degree angle, being carefull that none of the fixings/brackets fall off and land on your door. Once this is out, you will be able to squeeze your hand inside the door, and, with the aid of a torch, find the cable that comes from the door handle to the arm on the lock mechanism. release the arm by pulling it downwards, and the door will open. Good luck!!

 

What's the ambiant temperature? I ask because I had this *exact* same problem this morning on my Porsche 928...because my door was frozen shut. We had a serious cold front move through here (rare in the South). Once the car was warmed up, the ice melted and the door opened.

The ice was *not* visible from the outside. This was condensation that froze inside the door jam.

Would suk to dissassemble your door only to find that your problem had melted away!

 

Ah, yes....sorry, misread your post! As far as the proceedure for removing the glass is concerned, that still stands, but door trim removal is slightly different. Never tried this method on a CS, but be carefull pulling that trim about those C/F panels are a fortune!! Definately try checking the fuse before partially removing the trim, you could be lucky!!

 

Interesting.
Glad it worked out in the end and thanks for the update.