360CS Sway bars

It makes sense to replace the bar bushes at the same time. They aren't expensive.

 

Hi, i have just changed my rear sway bar for the cs one, i changed the drop links as well..

 

Hi Ben

Remember that the CS suspension was developed as a package. The cs runs different rear shocks to the Modena, (same fronts) and of course the titanium springs and the software on the scu is different accordingly.

Be sure that you're not updating the sway bar without having a good overall plan of action. It's easy to buy cs bits and be on the slippery slope unless you have a remit.

I've just got back from a day at the track with my new manual 360 and other than the brakes being not up to the job and the asr being a bit over enthusiastic sometimes the actual handling of the car is excellent and very safe and controllable even at high speeds.

I'm not saying don't do it - just saying "proceed with caution" - you're not modifying a basic car - the Ferrari is already very high performance out of the box.

Hope that helps I'm not trying to dissuade you - hopefully someone here will already have fitted a cs sway to an otherwise standard car and car advise on performance.

Cheers

Julian

 

I was fortunate enough to find it as a package. I was able to get the computer, All 4 Shocks and Titanium springs and rear sway bar. The car is completely different now. Night and Day. It might also have to do with running a 9" Front and 12" rear.

Don't forget about the ride height difference too.

 

What problem are you trying to fix? Do you know the H&R effective spring rates? I'm at a point that I'm happy, but haven't touched a roll bar.

 

I installed the entire CS setup as well, I believe it really changed the car in a positive way. However, I'm running bigger wheels (9x12) and they rubbed a bit, so I have raised it slightly. I bought a set of scales to do a proper corner weight balance in the next few weeks.

 

I am sure that the springs from H&s are good and that they have been well tested so I'd say they would be fine. One interesting idea might be to check out cs Spring rates against them? I have a set of titanium cs springs we could test if you like but I don't have a rate checker - would have to see if anyone has one?

One thing to remember is that the cs used different rear dampers so using the cs scu might not be such a great move if the unit is talking to dampers valved differently.

If I were you I would either just go for the h and s springs or let's learn about cs vs Modena Spring rates and then you can do the conversion using some equivalent springs of the same rate in steel. But if you're doing that I would definitely do the back dampers if you are?

The final choice (and probably the smarter one) would be to talk to someone like ohlins or another top of the line manufacturer. I'm sure they could replace the whole lot
With something using 2016 tech that would blow the doors off the cs/360 spec for a fraction of the costs?)

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In my opinion, you can fix the body roll with stiffer springs, and the push characteristics with wheel/tire size, stiffer rear spring, and a proper alignment with a good amount of negative camber. The stock shocks are able to handle more spring. Also can't ignore tire pressures and ride height/rake.


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Well I think the best bet is to document what you're trying to achieve specifically when you say improve the on track handling and we can take it from there. I find the on track manners to be pretty good - there is too much body roll at the limit (see pic of me on Friday in the new manual car - rolling far too much) but other than that it's the brakes that are shocking. About 3 laps only before they overheat... What is your plan with the brakes?

Also do you find the asr to be a problem? I find it cuts in far too early and is easily confused by track elevations, cutting power for no reason.

one option may be to adjust the ride height of the car on the standard springs and get the geometry set up. I haven't studied this yet but it could be an interesting avenue to look at.
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Brakes were a problem for me. I ended up going with bigger fronts. Happy to discuss if you think it's helpful.


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I've just swapped my brakes out for EBC yellow's and the stock Brembo rotors. I'll continuously run 20-25 minutes without fade.

Great photo btw.

 

Thats a great tip I think I'll do that right away before I strip the car for my Stradale rebuild!

Cheers

Julian

PS Yes it's a cracker that - the guy I did the track day with has his own photographer (!) that he brings with him lol! Now that's what you call impressive attention to detail!!!!

You can see those P Zero's digging in for dear life around the Old Hall corner there at Oulton Park! I was going to take my 991 GT3 but it's not had the paint protection stuff on it so I thought I'd try the 360 - I didn't expect it to be as good as it was, if I'm honest, and I didn't miss the GT3 for a moment! 360 = lovely thing

 

No such luck with me on using the oem front brakes. Tried floating rotors, good fluid, etc. pads never faded, but boiled and lost pressure after just a couple of laps. On the ASR, I rarely have it kick in if I'm driving smoothly in Sport mode. Little less body roll with stiffer springs - although doesn't actually compress a whole lot.