365 BB Chassis 17553 Nut and Bolt Restoration | Page 14 | FerrariChat

365 BB Chassis 17553 Nut and Bolt Restoration

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by cnpapa24, May 11, 2019.

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  1. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

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    #326 dwhite, Apr 26, 2020
    Ooops missed that. Going from the back not a fast swap either. If Ford had bought Ferrari, maybe it would be a 9 inch. :)
     
  2. Newman

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    #327 Newman, Apr 29, 2020
    Around 120 so far.
     
  3. Newman

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    #328 Newman, Apr 29, 2020
  4. Newman

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    #329 Newman, Apr 29, 2020
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  5. Newman

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    #330 Newman, Apr 29, 2020
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  6. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #331 turbo-joe, Apr 29, 2020
    those 4 holes on the left side of the bellhousing are original an a 365 BB? never seen/recognized those before. but also only had about 20 years ago 1 365BB for service
     
  7. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

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    #332 dwhite, Apr 30, 2020
    Looks like 5, 4, 3 holes.
     
  8. Newman

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    #333 Newman, Apr 30, 2020
    Yes its an early car, they constantly changed things up. Reminds me of how the early dinos kept changing where the car got whatever parts they had at the time.
     
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  9. Newman

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    #334 Newman, Apr 30, 2020
    Transfer gear case cleaned up and reassembled.
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    Left bell housing is a later 74 version. Note on the earlier part at the 2 o'clock position there's a machined flat on the bell housing - no idea why. Several small drilled holes for venting the clutch, a robust inspection plate that's cast and no starter reinforcing ribs to the mounting holes. The Later bellhousing has one large vent hole at the 5 o'clock position and an adjustable overcenter spring pivot.
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    The clutch overcenter spring set up changed as well. The small two bolt pivot bracket went from cast with fixed mounting holes to machined with adjustability.

    The lever on the housing in the foreground has been lengthened after the fact. I can only assume to give more leverage to reduce clutch pedal effort. Ill be correcting that and setting the linkage up so the clutch effort is as it should be.
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  10. Newman

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    #335 Newman, Apr 30, 2020
    Ill be installing the hardware, intakes and other studs then put the heads on with a set of head gaskets I reuse over and over to check valve to piston clearance. Never trust a piston manufacturer!
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  11. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #336 turbo-joe, Apr 30, 2020
    ;)
     
  12. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

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    #337 Ludwig, May 6, 2020
    very interesting differences and evolution towards the later Boxers
     
  13. Newman

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    #338 Newman, May 6, 2020
    Im going to run longer bolts. M8 x 1 x 21 bolts just don't make me feel warm and fuzzy holding a flywheel on at 7500rpm. I can't imagine the carnage if a flywheel came off inside the block that surrounds it. The 512 has M10 bolts. In the second pic I just started the bolt in the threads so the exposed length isn't a lot and the hole is 28mm deep.

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  14. Newman

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    #339 Newman, May 6, 2020
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  15. Newman

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    #340 Newman, May 6, 2020
    Heads off after timing cams and spinning the engine over 2 revolutions. I did a playdough test on each bank, doesn't hurt and if one side gets botched because the playdough fell off during the test I have another chance without having to do it twice.

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    Hard to see the impression because of the lighting but there's a line in it from the intake valve.

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    Cross section of the impression shows two things. The tiny pinched nib you see at the right end shows me radial clearance of the valve head to the valve relief in the piston.

    The largest section of the pie slice (or pizza slice) shows the actual clearance of the valve face to the valve relief.
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    Minimum desired radial clearance in above pic is .050"

    Minimum desired valve face clearance in the pic below is .100"

    So we're good on both by a nice margin.

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  16. Newman

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    #341 Newman, May 6, 2020
    Sometimes I have insufficient radial clearance on the intakes and when I dont Im so glad I checked. So many people get away without checking but you don't know unless you check. It means I don't have to cross my fingers when I hit the key for the first time.
     
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  17. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    #342 ago car nut, May 7, 2020
    Did the replacement pistons have 3 rings or 4?
     
  18. Newman

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    #343 Newman, May 7, 2020
    3 ring modern design but stock compression ratio.
     
  19. Newman

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    #344 Newman, May 7, 2020
    Doesn't look much different but it now has new head gaskets, heads are torqued, cams are timed and after the pic was taken I folded the lock tabs over on the cam pulleys and added paint marks to the bolts.

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  20. turbo-joe

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    #345 turbo-joe, May 8, 2020
    you forgot to mention that you also after the photo you torqued the 4 screws for the cam pulleys. otherwise you could not fold the lock tabs right. the small noses are not there ( on the left engine view ) where you can fold them.
     
  21. Newman

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    #346 Newman, May 8, 2020
    Yes thats correct! The engine will be on the box soon. Need to pressure test the cooling system first.
     
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  22. Newman

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    #347 Newman, May 13, 2020
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  23. Newman

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    #348 Newman, May 13, 2020
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  24. Newman

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    #349 Newman, May 14, 2020
    Worked on brake components today.

    Pedal box is ready for installation. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login


    Brake reducing valves with new seal kits and brake warning switch assembly.
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    Brake warning switch / distribution block. For those that don't understand its function, the switch in the middle is a pin switch and the two tapered cones with springs remain centered in the bore if all is well. If the pressure changes on one side of the block the tapered cones will shuffle one way or the other, which way doesn't matter but when they do the ramp on the cone pushes the pin switch and turns on the brake light on the dash.
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  25. Newman

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    #350 Newman, May 14, 2020
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