365 GT 2+2 starter switch

Starter switch is sticking a bit, have to wiggle slightly to remove key .. assume one of the tumbler pins is gone/ going ? Can buy a new part for $1200. (ouch) Is it possible to file or adjust key ? rebuild original ? will it only get worse ?

 

I, too, am in the midst of ignition switch woes - in my case, power is going in to the switch at the back and none is coming out to the panel/relay.

In your case, I would start w/ the time-honored application of a little powdered graphite down the slot. Sounds like you've got a tumbler hung up that hopefully will get unstuck w/ either grpahite lubrication or some compressed air. Call your friendly local locksmith for his recomendation. Don't even start messing w/the key - you don't know which tumbler(s) is the problem and filing the key may just create more heartache. As you have probably observed, getting the cylinder out means removing that whole @#$% dash panel.

good luck

 

Is it also a possibility that the key is worn?

Could a re-cut key solve the problem?

If you have an original the key code may be etched onto it, it was with my Dino. I had fresh keys cut and they worked like a charm.

this guy did them, and did a great job for me.

http://www.keys4classics.com/html/Fer208etc.html

DM

 

There is one of these ignition switches on Ebay, item #4514291361, for sale by basta-uno. The bid is at $199.00. He has sold one or two of these in the last few months. I have bought several items from this seller and I am very happy with his service.

 

As always thanks for the advice ... I have re-cut keys from original (which was starting to crack) Newly cut and original key are causing the same problem. I am meeting a locksmith next week

 

Be careful probably only for later cars 400 carbs 400i.
I bought one, not the $1200 good Nieman switch assembly


Tom Shaughnessy

I have been a victim of this vendors misrepresentation and changing ebay handle (on his fourth one)on a set of TP434 lights for $1200 and my friend on a set of TP424 lights,$1800 , full repops NO RETURN POLICY, no representation of reproduction. Vendor claims he did not know, Bul$s%$T!!!! Then take em back. Not a fan of Paul Leonard!

 

Thanks for that!!!!!!


I've had good luck with removal and rebuilding at a local lock shop when original keys were lost and/or damaged............

You have to take it out of the car though.....

 

As long as this topic is up here...the original push-in-key and twist ignition switch in my 330 2+2 failed. I removed it and replaced with a simple twist-key switch. Time less than one hour, new switch less than $20. Removal and replacement is easy enough on this model 330.

An NOS ignition switch is $600.00, and of course the old unit is packed away safely. It's low priority; my car is a driver and likely always will be.

Anyone know if these switches are rebuildable and at what cost?

 

Strange,

I replaced just the switch assembly for $185 from Partsourse. It was a few years ago but I'm not sure why there is such a descrepancy. Is a 365 that much worse than a 330?

By the way, it's only four wires. I hotwired the car for the few months it took to find a replacement switch - kind of fun!

Regards,

Art S.

 

the queen switch has 5 wires - so it must be that damned 5th wire made out of . . . UNOBTANIUM!

 

It's official .. had a seasoned locksmith check the starter switch. With his tools and pen light you could see internally that the cylinder is indeed cracked ! My 365 book gives part # as: 591- 740276. Ferrari of NA re-numbers it as: 168785 (around $1200.) We odered a used one ($400.) (from a 308 maybe ?) It does not look correct on the face (smaller, different markings, i.e I, II,III) It has 5 terminals on back ... any suggestions on options .. a good used, part number specific one, etc..