3rd Party 355 exhaust bypass valve

This is how I fixed mine...
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Tubi makes a bypass valve elimiator (my term), that replaces the valve assembly witha machined stainless steel collar. It also makes the car sound really, really awsome and has no impact on emissions.


I did it to my car. The part cost only $85 and took an hour to install.

 

My car just failed emissions in CA. They claim its the exhaust bypass valve - its stuck (or perhaps it was wired?) open. The car was in Louisiana previously where there are no emissions. I saw this posting about this third party device. Has anyone tried it? It seems I do need something otherwise it will fail here.

The dealer said the Ferrari part is $1500 so I'm pretty desperate to get something cheaper.

Scott

 

Consider removing it and having it repaired at a good machine shop.

 

If the bypass valve is still intact then simply remove the wire that is keeping it open. The bypass valve by default will actually remain closed so just freeing it from being hard-wired will do the trick. I use a flexible wire on mine and leave it closed (simply don't hook the wire) for on-road driving and fully open (tie the wire tight) for track driving. Other tips for getting the emission test to pass is, fresh fuel with highest octane you can get, at least 94 and a fresh oil change and clean or new air filters. Good luck

 

i have a good used one if you are still looking
eamil is [email protected]

 

Here's the deal on this. The valve is very very expensive. I'm planning on trying every route possible to avoid this expense: pray to the gods, use high octane gas, maybe add a little additive, and hope that the car passes emissions. From everything I can tell, the fact that my bypass valve may be not closing all the way may or *may not* be the route cause of why I'm not passing emissions. No one seems to know for sure. I spoke to Tony Palladino today (Modena Motors - Redwood City) and he questioned whether this valve was my problem. So, rather than spend $2K on getting this thing replaced and put in, I'm going to try to get it resolved some other way. Wish me luck...

Scott

 

You should also check the vacuum line to the bypass valve. Another way to force the bypass into the open position is to re-route the vacuum line at the solenoid valve located in the right rear portion of the engine compartment. If you jumper out the vacuum hose past the control valve the bypass will stay open all the time.

 

How does the emission station know that your bypass valve is not working? The alternat route for exhaust in the bypass circuit does pass through catalysts. They are housed in the expanded areas of the bypass circuit.

ken

 

The first thing that you need to do is to remove the bypass assembly and see if the diaphram canister is bad or if the bypass is locked up. Remove the actuator rod from the valve and you can tell if the valve is at fault immediately. We used to modify the preheat valves in American cars by removing the venturi plate, pull out the shaft, bore the body and insert bronze bushings, reinstall the shaft and insert the venturi plate. The carbon that caused the problem initially never seemed to effect the bronze bushings. It usually took us about an hour to do the machine work. You should be able to find a machine shop to do it for about $100. That is of course if it is the valve and not the diaphram or the vacuum source.
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F512M-The last of a spectacular services of vehicles and the "M" stands for MAGNIFICO!

 

Ken, I don't know if the bypass cats work as well as the main ones. The service manual says they have "reduced thermal inertia". I'm not sure what that means.

I'm thinking of removing the bypass cats and leaving the main cats so that I can switch from cat to non-cat by switching the solenoid that controls the bypass valve. I'll leave the ECU connected to the solenoid and wire the switch as an override. I think this will give me the option of almost test pipe back pressure while allowing me to pass inspection.

 

Mark...did you ever get around to removing/gutting the 2ndary cats?

i was kind of thinking the same thing myself......but would just use wire to keep bypass open and remove it prior emissions testing.

the reduction in backpressure may hurt low end torque tho.....but it will surely sound awesome.......

anyway, leave some feedback if u did follow through

 

"The dealer said the Ferrari part is $1500 so I'm pretty desperate to get something cheaper"

I am seeing a price under $1,000.00 for the OEM replacement bypass valve P/N: 155006.

Now I know that's still somewhat of a steep price, but it's 33% less than what your dealer quoted, and it's the OEM part! That means it's original!

Check with me as I have many of these items coming in.

 

For everyone interested I can get you a great deal on the Kreis-sieg ones posted! 2.7 or 5.2.

 

how will I know when the by-pass valve is shot??

 

I have a rattling bypass on my 355 from 98 and am looking for a replacement. Will the Kresi-sieg be less prone to rattle? How much is it? Will it fit my car wothout modifications?

 

The F50 By pass valve fits the 355 thats how the rattling problem was finally eliminated on my 355.

 

Do you know if there were any modifications needed? This is what I found at eurospares:

"Ferrari F50 - BY PASS VALVE
Part No. 155006
Superceded From Part No. 171924 £394.11"

Has any one else tried using this by pass valve?

 

If your vehicle is equipped with the F1 transmission you will need to relocate a few hoses and wires.

I don't know about the 2.7 but I sold a 5.2 unit (96-99) to a customer who had the rattling problem with his factory one and he called me telling me the rattle was gone.

MSRP-$2,498
New retail released by Kreis-sieg this summer $1,798

Call, email, or PM me for F-chat member pricing. All contact info is in my sig.

 

No modification required as far as I know, it was Norwoods in Dallas that pout mine on

 

That's a little bugger...(here it is in the F50, with mounting stuff)
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