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400i (Series 2) Door Latch and Lock

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by SouthJersey400i, Dec 21, 2020.

  1. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    I expect there is a thread on this subject already but a quick search did not find one.

    I am trying to adjust out excessive play in the door latch. Recently I have had to pull handle to its mechanical limit to get door to unlatch. I removed the inner door panel so I could look inside and I eventually removed the door latch/lock from the door. I found an adjustment, little white loop piece, but I am unsure how to get the lock lever back in correct place for it to do its job.

    Any experience out there?
    Ken
     
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  3. pattorpey

    pattorpey Rookie

    Oct 16, 2016
    9
    Dublin, Ireland
    Full Name:
    Pat Torpey
  4. raemin

    raemin Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2007
    696
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
  5. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 8, 2004
    3,261
    Edmonton, AB Canada
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    Sam Saprunoff
    Good day All,

    Just a heads up that the inner lock-set can have different dimensions as well and so although the housings look similar the lock-set pocket dimensions and depth may be different. I cannot say if this is the case for all the models, but for sure the 365 lock-set cannot be used with a 400i series handle.... So if you are going to buy a new handle assembly, double check the lock-set pocket dimensions first.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
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  7. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    Pattoprey, these pics are very helpful and represent the same parts as on my car.

    Looking at your pic:
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    Yes, I shortened the lever with the plastic end to take out some play but not sure it will be enough on first test. The largest amount of play comes from the gap that can be clearly seen in the pic between the brass cylinder and the gray metal lever held on with the single Philips head screw. I put a fiber washer in the gap but it was too thick and the lock would not turn. A thin brass washer/shim would do the trick.

    My bigger problem at the moment is trying to figure out where the lever pointed to in blue above goes when assembled in the door. Does it fit between the two levers where I put the red arrow below? I believe raising and lowering this lever activates the locks for both doors.
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    I am trying to do this without the door end plate disconnected from the rods to the door panel levers so it is a bit tedious. If I have to remove the end plate I will.
    Let me know about positioning that grey lever. Thanks. Ken
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  8. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    Two steps forward, one back. I did a test fit of handle in the door and both latch and lock were functioning. I notice that the Phillips screw was loose and figured some Loctite on it would be a good idea to keep it on for years. I still had handle connected to the plastic loop (DUMB) when I removed the screw and things started coming out of the lock! I tired to reassemble but not sure how the spring piece and special washer are fitted. See pictures below. These are the parts that I have. Am I missing anything? I took a good look in the door and with a magnet. How do the spring piece and washer get fitted? Pictures always welcome.
    p.s. I figured t out answers to questions above.
    Ken

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  9. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    I re-looked at picture above and I was trying to fit top washer wrong way around. But still not sure about the spring or if I am missing any parts.
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  10. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Jun 8, 2004
    3,261
    Edmonton, AB Canada
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    Sam Saprunoff
    Good day Ken,

    Your lock-set is a bit different than used on my 365, but it is similar. To me, it looks like you have all the parts. The spring is used to return the lock cylinder back into its neutral state... i.e. the Key being in the vertical position. Effectively when you turn the key to engage or disengage the door lock, the spring returns the key to the vertical position. The spring rests over the lock cylinder and the spring ends into the pocket on the lock post. On my 365 there was not a captive washer, but on yours it looks like there is one. I would suspect that the washer is fitted on top of the spring in order to keep the spring in the post pocket. Clean everything up, then lubricate appropriately, and test the assembly (e.g. twisting the key one way or another and confirm it returns to the neutral location) out of the car to confirm everything is working properly.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
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  12. pattorpey

    pattorpey Rookie

    Oct 16, 2016
    9
    Dublin, Ireland
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    Pat Torpey
    I'll have a look at the assembly in the morning and update then. I do recall doing a lot of head scratching to fit the spring properly. The original assembly did have thread lock applied to the Phillips head screw. My car is being painted so I have not yet had the pleasure (?) of refitting the lock assemblies.
    Pat
     
  13. pattorpey

    pattorpey Rookie

    Oct 16, 2016
    9
    Dublin, Ireland
    Full Name:
    Pat Torpey
    Forgot to say that to the best of my recollection the parts you show are correct and exactly the same as on my car.
     
  14. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    Sam and Pat, good input. I should have it together and tested today. Ken
     
  15. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,333
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    Success! Pat's picture got me in correct orientation for the washer. Sam's input got me to get the spring right. You can drop the spring in easily but that way it does nothing to load the lock to bounce back. One thing that made it a whole lot easier to work was to take the key out of the lock and then the tumblers stay put in the housing. The spring has two prongs sticking out. Put the lower one of the two in first on one side of the tab in the housing. I then used a small needle nose to preload the spring and move it to the opposite side of that tab in housing; a finger nail on opposite side of spring helped keep it in the housing. Now the wash has one flat tab that fits in notch in the tumbler as see in Pat's picture. The bent tab fits between the housing tab and the two prongs on the spring to keep them where they belong. Assembled with Loctite on Phillips screw and mechanism is smooth as silk and the spring gives a nice return motion.
    I'll attempt to show in the pic below. The two red lines point to the two prongs of the spring which are now overlapped on either side of the housing tab. The washer bent tab inserts between the two prongs and the circular part of the spring.
    Thanks all for the help. Ken
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