430 dropping into N at traffic lights only when hot ?

Hi guys
So yesterday was a hot day and took the 430 out for a “sporting drive” lol
Was a warm day so temps was up
Car was hot and came to a junction had to stop
Car goes into N and wouldn’t take a gear
Briefly took 1st let me out into the middle of the rd in a busy lane and N again!! By good luck I wasn’t killed
Anyway just out and pushed it to the side on my own with the adrenaline tha was pumping round me
Done this before only on a hot day also at traffic lights
So know how to cope with it this time
Let it sit for 10 mins to cool then all ok ??

Any ideas on the proper protocol for a fix and where to start ?
I will be doing this myself as I’m a fairly good diy and can’t afford to take it main dealer anyway

cheers guys for any help

 

Probably need more information. Did it start shifting normally when it cooled or is the issue still present? Have you looked around the F1 system for any leaks? It may not have anything to do with the heat

 

No leaks
Yes once cooled for 10 mins was ok normal
No “slow down” lights or warmings
Has done it a few times now and only after a hard drive and hot

 

Is it low on fluid and when fresh in the morning does the F1 pump run. When you open the door .. I had this happen once on one of my F1 cars several years ago …

 

I will be more than happy to help - do you have any diagnosis tools ? Were there any lights on dashboard when this occurred - any flashing light at exact moment it occurred
I will be in and out today so response may be slow

Update : Based on the few bits of info provided on subsequent posts above - I would guess it is pressure related .. hot fluid in the system tends to lose pressure quicker and that combined with hard driving ( more shifts) could cause the pump to cycle more since something is failing ( not holding pressure correctly) and then the TCU protects itself and shuts it down for 10 mins

Please provide timings below

Key on engine off - how many mins between pump cycles - disregard the first one - also how long does the pump run in seconds( be accurate)
Key on Engine on - same as above
How many shifts do you get 1-n-1-r-n with engine off key on
Final test .. drive 25 mpg straight not shifting - how many mins do you get between pump cycles

 

plenty of fluid
F1 pump runs ok when I open the drivers door

 

Sounds like the transmission is getting too hot. We work on quite a few of these and a lot of times we find the fault but just checking the basics. Here’s the basic list the things the check.

Transmission Fluid: Level and condition

Cooling System:Radiator, fans, coolant levels, leaks

Transmission Control Module (TCM): Error codes, wiring, connections
Software Updates:Ensure latest updates are installed

Gearbox: Signs of wear or damage

Clutch System: Overheating or failure

Hydraulic System: Fluid levels, components, pressure, leaks

Good luck!





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Hi flash32 and thank you for any help here on this issue I will be really great full if we can get to the bottom of this as it’s putting me off driving the car tbh

Initially pump runs for 3.5 secs when door opens
After that held pressure for 45
Mins and ran for about 2.5/ 3secs
Regarding how many shifts key on engine off
I’m getting 1-n-1-r then pump cuts in

 

Car has new clutch and f1 fluid replaced for this problem alresdy

 

Please turn key on and time it , then do it with engine on

You can use a diag to monitor pressure if engine is too loud

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holds pressure for 45 min with key on
i have a x diag i will see if i can check it with engine running

will it not be same times with engine running?

 

Had same experience, drop to neutral when hot - solved with new accumulator

 

ok and any warnings etc on dash?

 

Yes, “slow down” light came on. Wait a min and would go back in gear. My guess is indeed pressure related, accumulators go bad and are a maintenance item. And dealer can replace just that part - or at least diagnose. Cost about $2500 as I recall to replace it. Some people do themselves if they have the time, skill, tools and patience

Good news is car ran fantastic after replacement Better shifts, was slowly deteriorating over time I suppose that I did not notice a drop in shift performance.

 

I had a chance to speak to OP and after speaking to him my theory doesn't hold true ...all his timings are on the money and pressures are all good...also he heard pump running and shutting off when he got stuck

Right now I am leaning towards sensor issues .. since it is very intermittent with no related error codes we will continue to element other things

Updates to follow

Accumulator good
Pump good
Clutch solenoid good
Ediff is ok ..
Potentiometers next


We will create grid , do a relearn , and then try to recreate issue ...while stuck for ten minutes look at certain data items to pin point issue

I always try to take a methodical approach not to waste any money

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Following.
I’m having pretty much the same problem right now with my FF. Posted it in the FF section and it has been crickets.

 

FF and f430 completely different transmission tech

So unfortunately this will not help at all



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Replace the potentiometers. They are getting hot and giving false information to the TCU. Once they cool, they read correctly. I have seen this several times. The first time we spent a lot of time and money trying to diagnose.
Good luck.

 

just for conversation purposes
why are they not able to put up the heat now /getting hot now at this stage? and why are new ones more able to stick the same heat?
is there any way of cooling them? do they sit in the F1 fluid/ any coolers for this if so?

 

@BAZ22
It is just parts that get old and start to fail. I suspect if you keep trying the part would fail completely. I have dissected one to see what is going on. They do not sit in fluid. They bolt to the outside of the shift actuator. If you are changing them, be careful to watch how they are mounted and how the finger follower is clocked as it is assembled.