430 430 Scuderia Maintenance - What Else?

Thanks. Not that it matters since I'll flush the whole system anyway, but what color is that stuff? I've done a coolant flush on a few cars, but never for a rear engine, so I will be reading the WSM and whatever else I can.

I'm thinking I won't be able to drain/flush the coolant while on the rear jack stands. Is there a point I can reach to at least drain the system to replace the hose while I have access to that? Worst case, drill a hole in the hose and let it drain right from there I suppose (but wouldn't want any crap to get into the system). I did buy one of those cheapo coolant vacuum kits I've yet to ever use.

 

To me, it matters how things go - to be as close to "as shipped from the factory" where ever possible. From the O2 Sensor connector and exactly how it is attached to the frame (allowing for enough slack needed between the engine and the frame) to the layout of the wiring harness in the Vee and what goes under or over what. I am so glad I take lots of pictures because this damn Prevagen ain't helping me remember this sh*t!

Also, a picture of me literally "in the car" from earlier today.

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Happy to be of help at all. If anyone ever needs a picture of anything in the engine bay, from almost any angle, in a 430 Scuderia, let me know, I probably have it.

I'm now putting the intake manifold/towers back on...

 

I’ve got my intake manifolds/towers on with new gaskets and all bolted up. Only one nut dropped, and it was within reach. Whew.

I’m now about to install the fuel rails and the WSM says to lubricate the O-Rings using silicone-free grease. As I Google that, seems lube manufacturers push silicone-based grease for fuel injector O-rings. Any thoughts?

I was originally planning on just wetting them with fuel injector cleaner and seeing if they’d slide in.

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LOL but it makes sense - water-based shouldn't bother anything. Now, where is that tube???

 

Me too! I have a Launch with V11 Ferrari software. I've been reading what I can and may well be relying on members here for assistance. I saw some details using the Launch on an alternate Ferrari site and this video is a little bit of help to get familiar with things. I will certainly be double checking here if I have any doubts along the way.

Worst case, there's always someone willing to help - like this.

 

Hey all, I’m just back from a few days away and have disconnected that hose, first slowly draining via a screwdriver between the pipe and hose. When I first looked closely, I thought that notch was a crack (in the wider/bottom part in the picture) – that’s where the slight seepage collected - but obviously not.

About 6 liters in total drained from there (of course my topside reservoir and its fluid was not there) The system holds 19.5 liters so there’s a bit left in the radiators and pipes leading to them (the rear of my car remains on jack-stands and although my floor slope is about -3” front to rear, its high enough to keep lots of the coolant forward).

I did manage to take the front undertray off, even with the front of the car closer to the ground, and can reach the drain “t” valve. My question is, will I have any control of coolant flow with that valve or will it all come gushing out?

Thanks,
Ron

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After watching NGSC’s video, to answer my question, yes coolant does come gushing out when you turn/remove the radiator drain plugs.

They’re very small plastic plugs that are either screwed in or out like an oil plug. So at the other end I plugged up the hose (up top) and pipes (below) to try to cause some back-vacuum resistance and I don’t know if it helped, but it worked, pouring out slowly but consistently at first into the shallower pans that I could fit, then bubbling through the system as I unplugged the other end. I got about 3 liters, added to the 6 above plus maybe 1 for the reservoir is 10L.

Then I used my compressor to pump in a little air slowly via the cheapo coolant-vacuum kit I got from Amazon (that I also used to plug the pipe). I got another 3.5 liters out. That’s 13.5, leaving 6 liters still in there. I’ll have to look at a thermostat to see if there is a bypass hole that will allow coolant by or if some is trapped behind there.

I’m not going to be refilling until much more of the car is back together, but I do have bottles of blue stuff and distilled H2O ready to go.

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I appreciate that, especially the part "not needed" so I won't even begin to ask which plugs we're talking about (I think I can guess)!

I decided to follow advice and since I'm already changing lower elbow hose, I might as well change the "upper" (P/N 208338), and while I'm at it, I figure what the hell I might as well burn more frickin' cash and replace the thermostat and gasket (P/Ns .230887 & 137873)! Got them in my shopping cart.

Since I'm am trying to make this a "non-issue" car, I couldn't justify not changing it while I'm right here. I got almost another liter of coolant out - ~14.5 liters total drained, 5 left - I'm good with that, especially since the old stuff was crystal clear and tested okay.

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New Jersey sense of humor (I've lived in NJ my whole life).

 

So on page 4 of this thread, I noticed greasy liquid on the axle bolts when I pulled the right axle from the gearbox/differential. About 10 drops dripped out, but the left side was dry.

When I moved those joints by hand, the right one was a lot harder to move than the left so time to take it apart and re-grease things. Why not use the Ferrari Kit (rhetorical) – P/N 70006021? Might as well do both sides while the credit card is handy (but it was worth it).

The new version of the kit includes a small tube of Hylomar “Universal Jointing Compound” to seal the metal caps to the CV hardware and keep the grease in (important). Something very much like that stuff was smeared all over the outside of my CV joint metal before – a thin coat where it must have oozed out from when originally put together (Hylomar is blue).

Since I’m not ready to put the gearbox back in yet (to connect the axles to), I got some bolts/nuts at the hardware store to hold it all together tight while the Hylomar cures.

I’m telling you, by feel of hand, the re-built CV joint is a zillion times easier to move than either one was before (give or take a billion). I feel good having done this, helping to minimize drivetrain loss, and would recommend anyone take a close look at theirs.

First picture is the CV joints in the process of being cleaned. Second is both cleaned joints (one disassembled) and new parts from the kit (one kit per side - I'll look at the wheel end of the axle in the future).

What else?

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Mark, I've kept it for 11 years so far, but as I said in my first post, "I want to resolve all issues that a potential buyer would have. I’ve got the time and most of the tools, but only plan to spend on parts that would (mostly) make a difference in a sale." I plan to finish working on it (however long that might take), drive it for a few hundred miles to make sure all is good, then sell it when the price is right.

Why do you ask - is there something you would do/not do if you were keeping/selling the car?

Thanks,