43733 Light Recommissioning and a Lot of Questions

So, next question:
What does this screw do? I've never seen one on a K-Jetronic before!

Also, how do you go about synchronizing the throttle bodies? (I have several types of manometers).

Esben

 

Thanks!
I first softened the leather with "Leatherique", then cleaned it with Colourlock cleaning foam.
After that, I sanded some of the rough areas with a Colourlock sanding pad and then degreased with Colourlock degreaser (judging from the smell, something containing a lot of urea). Then basically touched up all discoloured areas with Colourlock "Leder Fresh" that I had matched to one of the headrests. You apply it with a sponge, and then immediately dry it with a hot air gun. Repeat as necessary.
To protect it all, I used Effax Leather-Balm.

Very happy with the result!

Esben

 

One of the next things on the agenda is finding out why the instrument lights don't work.
I want to have a look at the potentiometer next to the rev counter, but how do I get the panel out?
Do I just have to take out the 2 screw in the top corners?

Thanks

Esben

 

The gas struts for the bonnet lost all pressure the other day, so had to be replaced (a wooden stick also does the trick of holding the bonnet up, but doesn't look very sexy).
Not wanting to pay Ferrari prices, 195€ each here un Germany, I decided to get creative.
A set of standard 22mm struts with 10mm pistons can be easily modified to fit. You'll need to order them with 685mm eye-to-eye length and 24mm eyelets with 8mm holes. 150N will be sufficient.
The welded-on eyelets then have to be filed slightly the fit the very nice machined Ferrari end-pieces.
These cost 76€ for 2....

Spot the difference?

Cheers

Esben

 

Thanks!
I'm fairly sure the potentiometer is at fault, as I managed to get some of the dash to light up after twiddling the knob.

Esben

 

Yesterday I started a thorough check of the the injection system.
Started with the left bank, and found broken connections at the air valve and WUR.
Good news is that both now work after having repaired the connectors
Also, the pressures and flow volume of the pump are all within specs.

Cheers

Esben

 

I finished checking the injection, and everything seems to be within spec!
I replaced 5 injectors as they were dripping slightly, and I happened to have some NOS ones, and the proceded to synchronise the two sides an set the CO to 1,7%.
It ran much better than before, but the idle is still a bit lumpy. Also the plugs are very light in colour.
What do you guys set the CO at?

 

I made the mistake of attaching my synchroniser to the vacuum lines at the front of the engine, hence setting the rich position of the WUR....
I've just redone it using the take-off below the throttles, and it's much better now!

It has developed a tendency to cut out once in a while, which "feels" like something electric... I think the next thing is going to be splashing out on a new fuse box, as mine has several areas that have gotten hot in the past.

@raemin: do you run yours on 95 or 98 octane?

Cheers

Esben

 

Had it out on a run today, and I think I've got the injection mostly sorted.
On minor annoyance is that the car "hunts" slightly on the overrun. I've set the CO to 1,7% - the handbook calls for 1-2%.
Is there any benefit to running it richer or leaner with regards to the "hunting"?

Cheers

Esben

 

I found a loose wire behind the battery.
Can anyone tell me where it's supposed to go?
There is a tab on part of the airco that hasn't got anything attached to it, maybe there?

Cheers

Esben

 

Thanks!
I'll make sure not to connect it to anything

Cheers

Esben

 

I want to start reconditioning the brakes today, chiefly having the discs skimmed and rebuilding the calipers.
Is there a convenient way of getting the car on jack stands? At the rear I suppose it can be lifted by putting a jack under the diff, but is there somewhere at the front strong enough for a jack?

Cheers

Esben