456 GTA 1996 Belt Timing and Flywheel Lock | FerrariChat

456 GTA 1996 Belt Timing and Flywheel Lock

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by 308rene, Sep 11, 2024.

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  1. 308rene

    308rene Rookie

    Jun 24, 2011
    3
    I have been working on my 456 GTA and plan to just swap the timing belts. To do this I have been reading a lot of discussions here in the Forum but there are still several questions left.

    To loosen the bolt of the harmonic balancer I have an impact gun (Hazet 9012M) which just fits into the space between the radiator and the bolt (see photo 1). I use a very short 36mm nut.

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    But I know that I have to tighten the bolt afterwards to 216 NM as the Workshop Manual states. Therefore I would like to find a way to lock the crankshaft which I find best at the flywheel because it seems to me the most solid method to make sure the crank does not move and its recommended in the WSM.

    The WSM does not give an appropriate method to do so.

    It was discussed in the forum to try the Special Tool 95973207 which is from my 360 and I can confirm it definitely doesn t fit as its way to big (see photos 2)

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    As well the tool under discussion in the forum is the special tool 95973546 (see photo 3) which is available from Hill Engineering but according to them only suitable for the Manual not the Automatic 456. I checked the flywheel and did not find the groove the tool can be inserted so I believe Hill Engineering is correct in saying that this tool does not work for the GTA.

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    So I am unable to identify a tool to do the job.

    I am scared to just jam a screwdriver into the flywheel as discussed in the forum as there is the precision aluminium ring for the speed sensor in front and behind this there are the steel teeth of the flywheel (see photo 4, view into the clutch housing).

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    It is not possible to just lock the steel teeth from underneeth as they are behind the opening only (see photo 5).

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    So the question is how to lock the flywheel without damaging anything ?

    Another question is how to avoid the internal helical gear to jump after the crank pulley is off. Some people propose to put the bolt back in with some washers (see picture 6 I borrowed from another thread). Does someone know if that is an effective method to put enough pressure on the crank shaft to keep the internal helical gear in place?

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    I was doin this on a Jaguar XKR and it is recommended to put a spacer/pipe over the crankshaft to exert pressure against the housing to avoid this from happening.

    Any input is very much appreciated.
     
  2. Timmo

    Timmo Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2017
    637
    Continental Europe
    I do not see how the helical gear can jump in any way if you leave the key in place, which does not need to come off even if you take the full cover off and/or the front main seal. The purpose of washers is just to get the bolt to sit tight enough on the crank to be able to rotate it manually in both directions.
     
  3. 308rene

    308rene Rookie

    Jun 24, 2011
    3
    I see what you mean. On the crankshaft is the key (Part No. 10) which prevents the pulley from turning.


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    You are saying that the driving gear (Part No. 9) sits on the same key not able to turn.

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    I understood from the discussion that the jump may occur between the driving gear No. 9 and the driven gear No. 11. in the case the crankshaft pulley is not installed.
     
  4. Timmo

    Timmo Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2017
    637
    Continental Europe
    If you zoom heavily on the diagram you may decipher the notch for the key on the helical gear.

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    With 48 stiff-ish valve springs I would seriously doubt that the designers ever considered that the pressure applied by tightening the front pulley would have made for a secure enough assembly, as is sometimes the case on smaller engines.
     
  5. Timmo

    Timmo Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2017
    637
    Continental Europe
    Sorry, brain fart on my side. I am not aware of any engine where the lower timing gear is not locked in rotation to the crankshaft with a key or some comparable mechanical device that would prevent rotation in case the front pulley loosens up. There are engines where the tightness of the front pulley is what locks the oil pump drive gear to the crankshaft, but not on here.
     
  6. Timmo

    Timmo Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2017
    637
    Continental Europe
    What might be missing from your observations is the fact that the oil pump drive gear is located in between the front main seal and the helical gear, making impossible for the helical gear to slide forward.
     
  7. 308rene

    308rene Rookie

    Jun 24, 2011
    3
    Ok, thanks, the picture of the gear is convincing. That is not gonna slip.

    Any opinion on possible slippage between No. 9 and 11 on the parts diagram or as was expressed in this quoted discussion:

     
  8. Timmo

    Timmo Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2017
    637
    Continental Europe
    As I said in between the main seal and the helical gear there is the oil pump drive gear, which is the part around the crank that you see when the pulley is off, and unless removing the main seal and/or the whole front cover it will never slide forward enough or at all for the helical gear behind to unmesh with the 2 larger gears.
     
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