456 M high mileage or low mileage

i am still learning. its tough being a fisker owner in houston ! i have to drive to fort worth and leave the car there - done it 3 times now.
but the car is worth it - i love it and it is my daily driver now.
i am rosssr on fisker buzz, and haev been on there since last year. some real characters over there ! but also some deep knowledge.
i have ordered the bigger 630A fuse, and will be getting a TOM module sometime soon - which together should give me 40 more bhp !

 

i got the fuse online from a speciality shop. not as easy to find as you would expect. sent it to andrew otis at FK, and he is putting it into a spare MSD, and then sending it on to me. i will just pop out the 350A and pop this one in, and keep the 350 as a spare in case of emergency.

the TOM works best with the 520, which is what i have in there now. tried 535 briefly but all sorts of things went wrong, so back to 520, and figured out some workarounds for the foibles on that one. strange that you had issues with 520 and i had issues with 535.... what vin is yours?

i am delaying my TOM purchase until i am satisfied that all of the systems work well under oem conditions, then i will start fooling around and experimenting.

 

Take notice of Ross. He is perfectly correct. They are great cars, but you need to be dedicated with maintenance and repairs if you really want to enjoy them. Even once ‘fully sorted’ you are going to have the odd failure. They are old cars now, and as such, require constant attention. But don’t let that put you off. Fix the troubles as they happen and don’t let them accumulate. I have a manual, but I have friends who have the auto’s and they love them. I’ve driven them and they are fantastic around town. On the highway there is no difference. My advice, like others, is to get the one you like. Personally, I agree with getting the higher mileage car. Odds are the usual problems have been rectified. If you get the low mileage, it doesn’t mean the usual problems aren’t going to happen, it just means you will be the one to pay to have them rectified.
Good luck with your search.


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The only difference in the engines between 456 and 456M is the firing order of the cylinders, which supposedly makes things smoother, but does not affect performance.

Valve guide checks are done with a compression test. It doesn't eliminate all other possibilities, but it's the best that can be done. At 30K miles, I just had them changed.

 

No, I just wanted the peace of mind. There is an updated valve guide, but they weren't retrofitted by recall or anything like that, so the only ways to be sure you have the new version is to change them, or have a service record of them having been changed. A lot of 456's never develop valve guide problems, so it isn't anything to be overly paranoid about, IMO, but I like to be on the safe side. It is an expensive job though.

 

I wish I could tell you, but it was part of a larger engine out job, and I gave all the receipts to the new owner.

I actually replaced brake disks with the late model drilled rotors at about 25K miles. They didn't need to be changed, but I wanted to do it.

I'm betting there are some 40K mile 456's with the original rotors. Brake pads are another thing entirely.

456's are fantastic cars, but you need to be able to afford to buy one, sort it, and maintain it. That means being prepared for the odd large bill.

 

It kind of goes without saying that a car with less than 10K miles has not had any service done to it, simply because it did not need any.
Having said that, either car has some pros and some cons, as you can see from the different replies you got here and regardless of the one you choose, you can expect to spend some money, as there is no such a thing as a car that does not need anything.
Are the two cars absolutely identical in color combination, accessories and extras? Have you driven both?
I would go with the one that has the most striking color combination and that is most complete, like the luggage set, all the tools, manuals, etc.

 

The 456 and 456M use the same cambelts introduced on the 575M in 2002 and carried forward to the 612. There has been no updated belt introduced since then and the belts are Kevlar reinforced. No new belts in 2010. Ferrari's recommendation for 575 belt change interval is 5 years and most techs are using that number for 456s and 550s, too.

 

The "upgraded" belts were introduced with the 575M in 2002, as Terry said. Then there was updated guidance from Ferrari vis-a-vis the belt change interval for the 456/456M/550 with those new 575M belts. I believe it was originally 3 years - not positive, just going by what the 360 belt interval is - then up to 5 with the 575M belts. So, 5 years/30K miles is the updated, longer interval. Nothing goes past that.

There was never a bulletin for the 360, for example, so it is still at 3 years. Some guys run them 5 years figuring the V12 bulletin should apply, but that's not technically correct, IMO.

 

To be precise for the 8 cylinder cars FNA bulletin 1215 May 2004 reaffirmed the 3 year 30000 mile interval - it could be argued that this did however extend the 2 year interval on some earlier 8 cylinder cars

 

Never heard about that one, thanks.

 

When did the 456 any year acquire hydraulic lifters?

 

Never. Answered earlier in the thread a couple of times.

 

I have the 7th from last 456m built and it does not have hydraulic lifters. I'm afraid you have been given bad info.

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My ownership is too recent to be a definitive voice on this question but I believe the better shops (like Bradan) consider pulling the camshafts and adjusting valve clearances to be integral to a proper major with belts. So every 5 yrs.

Others are likely to be better informed.

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My 99 M GTA had the valve guides replaced at 17k miles in 2012.
They were adjusted along with a belt service when I got it last year.