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456 Motor Mounts

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by scowman, May 16, 2018.

  1. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    Mar 25, 2014
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    Cypress, TX
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    Stu Boogie
    I installed the 575 OEM mounts including the new bolt and lower washer with the flange on it.

    Please see pics below. The first pic is at rest. The second pic is with the motor jacked up.

    At rest the lower washer has about a 3/16th inch gap between the rubber and washer. When the motor is jacked up it goes to almost nothing.

    Is that the way it is supposed to be?

    Note the 575 washer has a flange the hits the lower part of the mount which leads to the gap.



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  2. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    Mar 25, 2014
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    Stu Boogie
  3. Canuck550

    Canuck550 Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2015
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    Ron A
    Not sure if this helps...or if I am addressing your actual question
    Should apply to the 456..
    On my 550, the gap between my lower oil sender unit and front roll bar is 12mm approx. as at march 2018 (my mounts are approx 3 years old)

    Measure your car at that point, this is the issue with these older 550 mounts, they sag and the sender unit hits the roll bar and breaks causing engine failure.
    The tabs on the end of the 575 mounts, that bend around the rubber will prevent this from happening, as it will limit the sagging, therefore, prevent the unit from smacking into the roll bar, this is my interpretation of the problem.

    What does yours measure with the new mounts on when sitting on the ground?
     
  4. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    My roll bar is offset from the sender. It’s not directly in contact. The motor is definitely sitting higher than before.
     
  5. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    If it’s supposed to fit snug I could kill the flange down a bit. Just not sure what is “normal”.
     
  6. AVIMAX

    AVIMAX Formula Junior

    Aug 5, 2014
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    Ryan
    Cut and past from the engine install section of the 575 WSM. My reading is you rest the full weight of the engine on the mounts, then torque the central nut and bolt to 98Nm, should be no gap in that case. Did you torque with the engine supported so mounts not compressed?
     

    Attached Files:

  7. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    Thanks! Always. Helps to read manual:rolleyes:. It’s possible I did it supported but do not recall for sure. Will redo and remeasure
     
  8. sully456

    sully456 Rookie

    Feb 21, 2011
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    New Zealand
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    Steve O'Sullivan
    Hi Ryan, Does the 575 manual have the full procedure for engine mount replacement, if so can you post the rest as a PDF. Cheers
     
  9. AVIMAX

    AVIMAX Formula Junior

    Aug 5, 2014
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    Ryan
    I can check again, but I think it only had what I posted which was within the engine removal and install section, not a dedicated engine mount section. If I find anything, I'll let you know.
     
  10. scowman

    scowman Formula 3
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    Mar 25, 2014
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    Right side is easy access. Undue bolts. Jack motor. Remove/replace mounts. Replace bolts and torque.

    Left side needs to drop steering rack and pull forward including removing steering column linkage. Then remove bolts and mount. The trick I found was to drop the new 575 bolt and 575 washer through the mount hole. It will rest on top of the rack until you are ready to bolt the mount to the motor. I could not get the bolt through the washer from underneath. It’s easy from the top. That will save you some time.

    I found tightening from the front with the radiator out was easy. I also had the suspension out so access was really easy. The left side is all about access.
     

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