456 Shock Removal DIY | FerrariChat

456 Shock Removal DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by cls, Mar 1, 2017.

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  1. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #1 cls, Mar 1, 2017
    Because shock failure is so common and it doesn't seem anyone has posted this before, I am posting a step by step process of removing the front and rear shocks.

    This is for a 1995 456GT

    Rears:

    Jack up car, support on jack stands, remove both rear wheels.
    Open hydraulic bleed valve to release any pressure in the shocks and lines, and catch fluid.
    Remove 4 phillips screws for actuator cover panel and then remove shock actuator from top of shock.
    Remove outside lower control arm nut and bolt.
    Raise lower control arm slightly and remove two 13mm drop link nuts.
    Remove drop link and support or hang hub and disk.
    Remove 19mm banjo fitting on the rear of shock, be prepared to catch remaining hydraulic fluid.
    Remove nut from lower shock mounting bolt by slightly lifting lower control arm. (note: it will be necessary to use a 27mm deep socket on one side of shock bolt.)
    Remove 2 x 19mm nuts from upper shock mounting.
    Shock will drop out of wheel well and be able to be removed.

    Fronts:

    Jack up, support, and remove wheels.
    Remove shock actuator located in engine bay.
    Remove 2 19mm nuts from inside of engine bay.
    Remove lower shock mounting bolt, and lower ball joint bolt taking note of shims when removing.
    Remove upper A arm inner mounting bolts and swing A arm free while supporting hub.
    Shock will be free and can be lifted out of lower A arm.

    Once outside the car, slightly compress spring with spring compressor and remove top nut on shock shaft.
    Remove springs noting parts and orientation for re-assembly.

    Send to Delta Vee for rebuild.
     
  2. au-yt

    au-yt F1 Veteran
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    #2 au-yt, Mar 1, 2017
    Good idea can I suggest pictures to clarify.
     
  3. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
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    #3 360modena2003, Mar 1, 2017
    How much is Delta Vee charging these days for shock rebuild?
     
  4. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #4 cls, Mar 1, 2017
    $2000 for 4 corners: $550 rear, $450 front.
     
  5. vitajojo38

    vitajojo38 Karting

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    #5 vitajojo38, Mar 2, 2017
    In France, 2 years ago, I've done the same and it has cost 1700€ for all the shocks (1800$).

    Rebuilt has been done by a Bilstein specialist.
     
  6. Canuck550

    Canuck550 Formula Junior

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    #6 Canuck550, Mar 2, 2017
    Bilstein no longer does rebuilds in North America
     
  7. asgor

    asgor Formula Junior

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    #7 asgor, Mar 2, 2017
    That's what I heard, too. But not to worry: Performance Shock in Sonoma, CA can rebuild Bilstein shocks just like the mother ship used to. Cost: $200/unit - granted, not a Delta Vee-type rebuild, but still.

    Performance Shock, Inc
     
  8. nettwerkjohn

    nettwerkjohn Karting

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    #8 nettwerkjohn, Mar 2, 2017
    I had mine done by race shock specialists in Auckland, new Zealand. From memory it was around 800nzd per
     
  9. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #9 cls, Mar 2, 2017
    Bilstein still rebuilds in Poway.
    Performance Shock and Bilstein use OEM seals and neither will rebuild anything having to do with the shaft. I spoke to them both about this.
    As an aside, Performance Shock answers the phone and are very helpful. Bilstein refers calls to email unless you demand otherwise. They don't return their emails.
    Delta Vee responds with helpful information promptly.
     
  10. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #10 scowman, Mar 27, 2018
    Great instructions! Concise, logical and most importantly, simple. I just took the rear shocks off my 456 and this save me a bunch of time. I never did find that bleed valve, but just cracking the banjo seemed to work. I also did it without the 27mm deep wall socket. I just undid the 19mm nut on the other side and a held the bolt with a crescent wrench. I will get a 27mm socket for the rebuild. It's a nice to have but not a must have. Again thanks to cls!
     
  11. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #11 scowman, Mar 28, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
    Adding stripping the rear shocks to this.

    1. Fit shock in vice as pictured.
    2. Use spanner wrench or drift on locking ring nut. Once started completely unscrew and remove from shock.
    3. Reverse shock in vice as pictured. Turn cup #114712 clockwise. This will turn spring and ring nut, gradually releasing the spring.
    4. Once the spring is fully released and the spring stops turning, turn the ring nut clockwise until completely removed from shock. The spring will follow.
    5. Place washer #152653 in vice (see picture) and remove nut #137826. Alternatively use a spanner wrench to hold the washer.
    6. Remove four bolts holding cup in place.
    7. Remove support #137824 by wiggling back and fourth (it's on pretty tight).


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  12. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #12 cls, Mar 28, 2018
    A couple of suggestions.
    Make sure you note the orientation of the washers on top. Put them in upside down and the shocks will set off a warning light.
    You can send them to be rebuilt with the locknut in place so you will not have to readjust ride height when you put them back.
     
  13. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #13 scowman, Mar 28, 2018
    Thanks. Just curious. How does the locknut during rebuild impact the ride height? I’m familiar with spring pre load adjustments and setting shock sag from my motocross days but never rebuilt a shock and never with a self leveling system. And how does the spring preload settings impact the self leveling system? Won’t the system just compensate? The preload was set to the max on both springs. I assumed that was the set up. Preload on max and the self leveling system from there. But I know what happens when I assume. Especially with Ferrari.
     
  14. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #14 cls, Mar 28, 2018
    They suggest not moving the locknut assuming your car is properly set up. i.e. if it's set, there's no need to remove it for a rebuild and you won't have to adjust when you get the shocks back. It sound's like your car may not have been set up properly to begin with so it's moot. (it is anyways you already removed them. :)
     
  15. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #15 scowman, Mar 28, 2018
    Thanks. so is there a set up procedure? It sounds just like setting the rear sag on a dirt bike.
     
  16. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #16 scowman, Mar 28, 2018
    And BTW, the springs will sag some over their lifetime so they would need to be replaced or the sag (pre load) reset anyway.
     
  17. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #17 scowman, Mar 28, 2018
    Of course, I could actually READ the WSM. So the spring pre-load is set based upon the spring installed (three options) as follows:
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    Mine are red (I wondered what those dots were for) so it would be 185.5 mm +- 0.5mm That's pretty precise considering it's a hunk of high production steel. Just sayin

    But then the sag (what they call ride height) is adjusted (if necessary after setting the spring pre-load) by adjusting the hydraulic pressure as follows:

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    Call me a heretic but I would be tempted to adjust the spring pre-load rather than the hydro pressure to get the right number. Seems a lot easier. You just unload the suspension and turn the ring nut one turn at a time (both sides) and recheck. My mx heritage.
     
  18. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #18 scowman, Mar 30, 2018
    I dissembled the front shocks. The process is similar to rears with the exception of the spring. The front spring has a lot more pre-load than the rear. The un-sprung spring is longer than the ring nut travel by about two inches (unlike the rear which is shorter than the ring nut travel). A spring compressor is definitely in order.

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  19. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #19 tazandjan, Mar 31, 2018
    Wonder if that is because she is front engine? And not front mid-engine, either, like a 599 or 612.
     
  20. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    #20 scowman, Mar 31, 2018
    Definitely because they are holding up the V12. The rears also get an assist from the hydro minimum pressure.
     
  21. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #21 tazandjan, Mar 31, 2018
    Yup. Fronts on Maranellos are way stiffer, too, and no hydraulic assist.
     

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