458 Battery Problems !!!

Evidently we can’t get to 50% and still start the car! Previous discharge curves and folks measuring the voltage as it starts to fail indicates a higher threshold. It would explain why many of us get a week off the charger and why a lithium is a better choice.

I’m tempted.

With the built in battery management system, you should have few incompatibilities but a higher level of risk is inherent in the technology if the batteries are of a certain chemistry.

Most battery failures I’ve seen are essentially zero day type fails early in the life. Most of which can be ameliorated by the manufacturer if the precharge and run in the batteries ahead of shipment.

Using the correct charger is a necessity to prevent issues but the manufacturer will recommend a suitable unit.

Not needing to use a charger unless you’re away for weeks at a time would be a nice experience...

SV

 

I would agree with that - as long as we define "cool environment" as something above zero degrees C. Lithium batteries can also be easily damaged if used in subzero temperatures. That's why Tesla, for instance, has to heat the traction battery pack before use.

The cold temperature issue is probably not a concern for a lot of Ferrari owners, but if you are determined to drive year-around, and you don't live in Malibu, it can be a consideration.

Incidentally, speaking of Tesla, it's telling what they use as a car battery in the Model S and X. Both models use a 33 Ah lead-acid AGM that powers everything in the car except the traction motors.

It's ironic that a car maker with the most advanced lithium battery pack in the world resorts to using a 150-year old archaic technology to keep the car running. This just illustrates that despite its obvious shortcomings, the lead-acid battery is still the best choice for street cars.

 

AGMs are finicky. They die a ridiculously early death if not brought to 100% charge regularly. I have direct experience with this on my boat.

If a wall charger is not available AGMs are a bad choice with infrequent driving of the car. With short, infrequent but regular drives and no wall charger access lithium is likely better, from what I've gathered.

 

AGM would be fine if the threshold weren’t so high!

That Tesla uses them for the run of the mill power is a testament to their performance per dollar!

Ferrari could do the same if they designed the underlying electronics correctly...

SV


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Absolutely correct iom

I am happy with my black AGM of $ 120 every two years ...

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From what I gather the issue is unlikely that AGMs don't produce sufficient current at 50% state of charge, but that the batteries are toast due to sulfation from not getting to 100% regularly from long drives or a wall charger.

 

Great thread guys, thank you for the information.

 

I had an issue recently with my 10 year/5,000 miles old 458. It was connected to the Ferrari tender for 5 weeks since its last run, when I tried to start it only 'tumbled', did not start. The battery was about 2 years old, so I changed it. The car started on the first try with the new battery, but if I leave it on the tender for a day or two, it only tumbles and does not start.
If the battery is removed, charged and reconnected, it starts on first try, battery meter shows about 13.5v when it is running. I am not sure if anything is running down the battery as I get a 'drain' of 175 mA. I even replaced the tender with a better model CTEK 5.0 but still same issue. Also noticed whenever it is tumbling and does not start, the 'virtual indicator hand' on the battery volt meter is no longer visible.
Never had this issue before as it has always worked well when connected to the original supplied tender.
Unfortunately, we do not have a dealership in Trinidad so we have to fly in service technicians. Trying to figure out what the problem might be before I bring them in with the required spare part/s. Had a diagnostic check which shows all MCUs etc in good condition, no problems showed up on the computer.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

175 ma trickle draw is too high. Should be below 25ma according to my dealer.

I had an issue with my,458 early on that was showering out the battery randomly. Ended up being the electro chromatic rear view mirror I asked the dealer to install was badly done and had a bare wire rubbing against the painted chassis randomly causing a short.

So first look at any additions or changes to the electrical systems that can cause wiring issues.

If this is recent then did something happen just before the symptoms were observed? Any new sound mods or radar detectors?

SV

 

Same car- Same issue- Tip- IF you can park it in a secure environment don't lock it- the alarm being set makes all the difference in the world. Was just in Florida for two weeks- Car started fine today.

Second option- Keep a portable CAT power source up front and a 4h Battery Tender/Charger- You can set the power unit in the passenger wheel well and manually attach the clips to the battery (note- negative is on the left) -

There is a lever to disconnect the battery but it's a pita to get to and I don't like the car having its electronics disconnected.

Hope this helps- Cheers