458 458 error codes eps, avh, electricity?

Adam,

Had the exact same thing happening to me once, even have a video somewhere in my cloud. In my particular case, dealer diagnosis was a nearly dead battery, and I have it plugged in ALL of the time (green light on 90% of the time).

Car had trouble waking up, displaying accurate fuel info and the “electrical failure - go to dealer” warning on. A dying battery throws all sorts of very serious warning codes that are of course false.

I’d recommend checking the battery and if the “charger” is actually working. A faulty unit may not “charge” the battery or even drain it.

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

The green LED is the one that stays on the longest. It shows the charge is stable and sufficient.

The yellow LED means the “charger” is working to stabilize energy to the desired level. Usually comes on if you open the car door for instance. You should see the light on the “charger” changing from green to yellow almost immediately. It can come on in other situations, but this one is the easiest to spot.

The red light shows a failure with the unit. It is not working as designed and is either doing nothing to the battery, or is doing it harm.

(In layman’s terms, as I’m just an owner and far from being an expert on electricity or mechanics).

My guess is a dying battery. Mine died this year after nearly 4 years. I had the same symptoms your car displays on the video.

How old is your battery?

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

If that’s the case, you’re definitely in need of a new battery, Adam. From experience, 458 batteries last 4 years at the most. If yours lasted almost 6 years, count yourself lucky but the time has definitely come to get a new one.

Relax and don’t make anything of those warnings on the screen. Your car is fine and with a fresh battery in place, it will be as good as new.

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

Replace your battery, do the start up procedure correctly, and keep it on a battery tender and it will be fine!

 

No problem, Adam. My pleasure! I went through the same and got quite worried about the warnings that turned out to be nothing. Glad I could be of service and spare you from going through the same!

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

You said you go down to visit the car in storage every few weeks and run it a few minutes. This is not a good technique for car storage. The car is better off mechanically to take it when occasion calls for at least a 20 mile spin to lube & properly heat components or better yet once properly stored to leave it alone on the Ctek & over inflated tires until Spring. At times some units will actually shut off in the event of a power failure. Good idea when visiting to unplug and replug the unit. Incidentally for storage the Cytek 7002 is a much better unit than the stock series. Check the multi Chats written on F. Chat for proper storage of you baby. Also remember the weak point of these cars is the Battery. If the battery voltage is down (can't remember the number) it will not be brought back up by the stock Cytek & must be recharged by a regular charger.

 

Adam,

When you bought the new CTEK charger, did it come with the Ferrari adaptor too, to connect it to the car’s port?

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

The AGM mode is the one to use. The Stock Cytek doesn't have AGM or the electronics it to my knowledge. I had battery issues with the stock unit. On the 72002 AGM is the one that has the symbol of the snowflake. The connector can be purchased from E-Bay, but my stock Cytec had a removable connector which I just unsnapped & added to the 7202. Sounds like you've got the situation handled now. Again don't idle your car & don't forget to hyperinflate your tires. I think it's a good idea to place some soap shavings like "Irish Spring" on top & base of ea. tire to discourage mice or rats from making a home. Open one window slightly to encourage some air movement, soft indoor car cover also.

 

Yes Adam- Mich. tires in season are inflated during driving season to 30# front, 29# rear (cold pressure). Check what brand tire you have as normal pressures may vary with brand. Hyper inflate would be to inc. cold pressure by about 10 to 12 # for ea. tire. Obviously deflate to normal cold pressure when car is to be driven.

 

I agree with every single thing you said, except for one thing. I know it sounds strange, but you are not supposed to automatically select AGM just because it is an AGM battery. I called tech-support for the battery, and the charger to clear it up/ confirm for me. It is a little confusing. AGM setting is more for those cylindrical type designed AGM batteries. I happen to have the interstate battery which actually charges properly on the normal setting even though it is an AGM. The only way to know the proper charger setting, is to see what rate the manufacturer recommends that the battery be charged at. It is usually written on the sticker of the battery. Then you have to compare from the owners manual of the charger to see what each setting charges at. I hope this makes sense? I know it’s a little confusing.

 

Thank you for sharing, Adam. I’m still using the original Ferrari branded tender, but I’ve just ordered the CTEK MXS 5.0 with the Ferrari adapter as you did, just in case. Heard a lot about OEM tender failures, being a lower placed product in the CTEK range.

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

Thank you. Interesting. Did the Rep.say what harmful effects would happen or could happen using the AGM mode on an Interstate? I've used this setup on my Interstate now without issue approx. 1.6 yrs.

 

It’s not too much of an issue, it’s just not “optimal”. It may just charge a little faster, or a little slower than optimal. Obviously slower is never an issue, and the fastest these things charge is still SLOW. On the MXS 5.0 it will automatically go into AGM/winter mode when the weather gets cold anyway.

 

Thanks again. I wish we could just go back to roll up windows.