Distributor drum 'pitting'? | FerrariChat

Distributor drum 'pitting'?

Discussion in '308/328' started by dantm, Nov 13, 2014.

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  1. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    #1 dantm, Nov 13, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Doing a distributor overhaul...

    Found the following damage on the distributor advance weight pins and on the drum itself.

    The pins can be sourced and replaced; any advice on what to do about the drum? Is it something that can get welded and ground to the original level or is there another way to handle it?

    Thank you.
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  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    It needs more frequent service.

    I have welded and ground back to shape many of those drums. I am not aware of a source for new pins but have not tried in a long time. I would ask Motion Products or Pat Ottis and ask if they have a source. Motion Products makes quite a few Ferrari specific parts. They may actually make them.


    You are going to need a distributor machine to resyncronize the advance curves when you are done.
     
  3. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    Thanks -- I'm working with a local shop that has the SUN machine. Upon restoring the disty the gentleman working on it found these issues. We've in the process of sourcing the pins (thanks for the leads I will try them) but I was asked about any direction to go on the drum. The shop does not want to take responsibility for welding and grinding back the drum because they are pretty much unobtainable? and things can go wrong as with anything...
     
  4. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    Also -- would you recommend the Bosch distributor grease for lubricating the internals (not the points) or something else?

    Thanks.
     
  5. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Maybe all things considered it would be best to send the job to people who have done it before. Adjusting the advance curve and matching the two distributors advance curves is without a doubt best done by those familiar with the job. It is a pain in the ass and needs someone who knows how to do it and understands its importance so he doesn't just get to a place where he says "good enough". His reluctance to fix the drum is enough to make me question his suitability for the job.
     
  6. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

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  7. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    It's a finicky job but not particularly difficult. The little divots can be TIG welded and resurfaced easily. Pins are a simple job to make. Getting the advance curve set up requires the right combination of springs, shims and patience.
     
  8. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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  9. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

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    Perhaps the distributor is half full? I know it's on eBay so it's gotta be bad. However in this particular case returns are accepted so .......
     
  10. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    The pins should be very hard

    After the guy who is used to recurving old Delco distributors is finished taking a Marelli apart for the 6th time to get it pretty close to the right curve how close is he going to get the second one?

    Better off giving it to someone who knows what he is getting into.
     
  11. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    I've done a few. You're right about taking them apart a few times. A pain in the ass but I don't know of a better way.
     
  12. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    Thanks guys. The guy handling these two distributors is not a novice to the Ferrari world. He has done the welding and the polishing of the drum inner surface but was just asking me whether this is something I want done.

    The pins themselves are hardened material as Brian has mentioned and my distributor guy gave me a ~20 min lecture about the different types of hardened steel-carbon combinations and which have been proven good/etc.
     
  13. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

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    I posted a procedure for adjusting the advance several years ago. Gerret incorporated it into his 308/GT4 website, but that appears to have disappeared. PM me and provide an email address and I'll send it to you.
     
  14. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    There's not but how many that are not Italian exotic people are going to that much trouble?
     
  15. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    There is a very good chance one of those names I gave you has a bin box full. Why reinvent the wheel?
     
  16. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    #16 robertgarven, Nov 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I still haven't figured them completely out but I love my distributors!I know this the factory used some king of locktite on all the screws and upon taking one apart for the first time it can be challenge I ended up using a small torch to heat the screw head....
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  17. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    Looks like I have to make the pins and I'm working with a local machine shop to do this...

    Quick question for the experts -- would you guys ever consider changing the head radius of this pin so that the surface area between the drum inner cylinder and the head of the pin is increased and therefore the wear will be decreased? Any downsides to doing that?
     
  18. dino_bob

    dino_bob Karting

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  19. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    The only issue you may encounter is that a rounder head will stack the spring assembly that much taller in the bore(s) of the weights, causing the points cam armature to rotate that much further inward (basically, you'll end up with more than the 16 degrees of distributor advance, or whatever else is spec'd for your model). This will cause the weights to bottom out further on the inner plastic bushing (and they crack easily).

    I've tried to weld the pins/cups before unsuccessfully. To restore a proper advance curve, I just used very thin, very small washers/shims under the pin's heads to to take up the wear from the pins and cups. Requires lots of tear-downs and shuffling of washers to get the right advance curve. RPITA. I can't live without my Allen Syncrograph dizzy machine!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LvmcAEKcyY
     
  20. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    #20 dantm, Nov 23, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I probably expressed myself wrong...this is what I had in mind.

    In the first picture is the advance weight pin that I show at the top of the post. The tip of the round head (close to the letter C) has been ground down in my case and has also caused material to be eaten away on the inside of the drum.

    What would happen if I changed the Radius value, R to a much higher number such that the contact area with the drum inner surface would be increased? I'm showing this in the second picture. The overall dimension 'C' would not be changed, nor would anything else.

    Shims/washers would still be needed at the end of the shaft, below the head, to tune the advance curve.
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  21. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    #21 robertgarven, Nov 23, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The japanese distributor has only 3 pins and my car was hotrodded to have only two. I tried the correct set up but ended up going back to what I had as the car drive better and accelerates smoother. Setting these up is a real art and their are only a few around that still know how to do it. Having access to a machine and lots of time makes things easier. A lister here was involved with a new company making a modern machine if you are interested pm me and and I will pass you on. It was featured on a Jay Leno video. I also have a source that rebuilds and sells the sun machine I bought mine from him and what he does is fantastic!
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  22. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    #22 Peter, Nov 23, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Okay, I kind-of get what you're saying. It may work doing that. I suspect though, that if the build up was not perfectly hemispherical, the strobe lights on the dizzy machine may jump around a bit, due to the possibility of the pin rotating due to engine vibration (trying to find a natural resting place). I was getting this issue when my distributors were really worn out. Like Rob Garven, I picked up a set of the S159Cs and unlike him, I got mine set up fine (using only two pins/springs combos). Although that was a couple of thousand miles ago, so I suspect some wear when I take them out this winter for my annual service/tune-up (photos are of my original set of S159Bs).
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  23. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    I've ordered 4 of these pins made with the original dimensions (R ~3.55 mm) and another 4 of them with R ~ 9.55 mm) but trimmed so that the head diameter is the same. We'll try both and report back.
     
  24. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    Peter did you use the 159C cam that came with the unit? Dan I am not an engineer but would assume if you made the heads bigger the wear areas would just be larger? As stated earlier superformance has the repro pins in stock. I have had at least 5 sets of distributors, even s a set professionally rebuilt, but the car still runs better with the original ones from PO with the two pin set up.
     
  25. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

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    Hi, yes Superformance has the advance weights with pins for sale for about $200 per distributor but I figured I can have them made locally according to the pin drawing. The guy tuning through distributors was thinking that a larger contact area would reduce the wear due to the forces being distributed over a larger surface.
     

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