512 BBI Boxer Engine Out Major Service S/N 40565

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Dave Bendl, Dec 10, 2017.

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  1. Dave Bendl

    Dave Bendl Formula Junior
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    I haven't had my coffee yet this AM, so thank you Ago Car Nut for your posted suggestions.
     
  2. buzzm2005

    buzzm2005 Formula 3

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    Just had mine! 'Morning Dave! Buzz from NYC here; we met at the '08 FCA event in Toronto. Hope you are well.
    Question: What is the technique you use to ensure that when the timing belts go back on, the camshafts are in the correct position? I'm pretty sure Newman uses The Force so that doesn't help here.
     
  3. Dave Bendl

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  4. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Yes Dave that is the post.
     
  5. Dave Bendl

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    Thanks Ago Car Nut, and have a Happy New Year.
     
  6. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    If you are removing the shifter shaft to replace seal, I believe you need the set up pin. It is a very simple pin. Marking the position on the shaft might not get you right. Set screw on bottom of case, you remove insert pin and adjust. If you can't find one, I can make you one.
     
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  8. Dave Bendl

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    Thank for the tip ago car nut. I did check the 512 workshop repair manual and did find reference to a shift finger alignment tool 706 AS 9561 on page 86. The 308 guys do have a tread https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/gearbox-alignment-tool.397587/ discussing the same tool. I'm not clear what their decision was but a few posters did make mention that a sharp eye could align it. I did locate the drill hole in the end of the shaft to accept a tool or pin through the bottom of the housing. If you have the pin dimensions, please advise. Otherwise I'll take the shaft into our shop at work and have the hole measured so I can source a correct dowel pin.
     
  9. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Ok,
    pin dimensions: .314 od. stepped down .236 The stepped down part about .560 long. Overall length not important. The set up is the 1st adjustment, then all the other forks are adjusted while the pin is used.
     
  10. Dave Bendl

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    Gear Box Visual Inspection
    Thanks for the pin dimensions ago car nut. I'll see what I can come up with for a pin. The first photo shows the internals of the gearbox. No gear teeth chips missing and or damage. The gearbox was/is easy to shift with no odd audible sounds indicating an issue so I'm not going any further than the shift shaft seal replacement.

    Shift Shaft/Seal Ring Removal

    Before removal of the one 8mm bolt from the finger, using a center punch to mark the original position for reference. Once the bolt is removed the shaft is free to be pulled straight out the front of the housing. The dust boot is removed and inspected with no signs of damage. The isolator block however does look a bit frazzled, so it will be pressed out and a replacement pressed in. The seal itself is nothing more than a single two bit o-ring. I used a jewelers screwdriver and a pair of hemostats with allot of care not to damage the bore or the o-ring groove for removal. The end of the shaft shows the pin hole use for alignment on reassembly as discussed with ago car nut above.

    Next...
    There is allot or grunt work cleanup to be done including gasket and sealer from mating surfaces, and road grime from the externals. Lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, clean rags are in abundance for the job.
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  11. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Your shifter bushing, replace the front one under gear lever if bad.
     
  12. Dave Bendl

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    Rear Main Seal and Pilot Bearing Removal for Replacement
    To pull the rear main seal, I drilled a small 1/16" starter hole in the casing to carefully pull the seal out of it's bore. Use extreme care not to damage the crankshaft OD or the casing bore sealing surfaces.

    The pilot (spigot) bearing presented a larger challenge. It's in a blind bore so gaining access to the back side isn't possible. There are ID pullers and some great on-line advice how to pull a bearing like this. I do have a slide hammer puller with a tri-jaw setup handy but the jaws were to large to fit in the bearing's 15mm ID so I removed two of the three jaws. The bearing didn't budge being careful not to cock the bearing in the bore.
    I left it overnight to think about it.
    Once the rear main seal was removed, I applied a small amount of heat to the rear crankshaft flange. Just enough to warm it to the touch. Retried the slide hammer puller and bingo, it worked. Picked up a replacement Ferrari P/N 103877 bearing from the dealer this morning to add to the new replacement parts.
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  13. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    We had the same issue with my pilot bearing.

    One thing about Ferrari cases is, being a rough cast, they really like having crud on them. I spent a few days with spray 9 and small brushes cleaning all the clutch dust and crud off all the surfaces of the block, heads, trans and bell housing. Unfortunately, it does not last as long as we'd like.

    Hey Dave, Rich said hello. Probably will give you a call.
     
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  15. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    The pilot bearing sticks out a bit to register the flywheel.
     
  16. Nemesis RR

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    You are very brave.
     
  17. JohnnyS

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    Nice job Dave! I was going to start my belt service work a week ago, but it got way too cold in the garage.
    Cheers - John
     
  18. Dave Bendl

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    Love to hear from Rich again. Great Guy.
    John, I know what you mean about the cold. I can get my shop up to 60 F with the wall furnace in this 0 deg F frigid spell but it still feels cold. Hopefully warmer temps are around the corner.

    Water Pump Disassembly

    To disassemble the water pump after the volute is removed, start with bending back the lock tab washer and slacking the impeller acorn nut. I did this before the pump was removed from the timing cover.

    With the pump on the bench, remove the impeller, and reinstall the nut to protect the threads. Tap the nut until the shaft & gear comes out the back side. Use a soft brass drift if required. The seal assembly with sleeve can now be removed. Tap out the rear bearing through the back of the housing. Remove the spacer and snap ring that secures the front bearing, then remove the (2) bellville springs. Tap the front bearing out through the rear of the housing. Tap the mechanical seal stationary seat and it's elastomer cup through the front. The last component to remove is the lip seal.
    Added to my parts list are:

    (2) SKF 6002 JEM open ball bearings.
    (1) Mechanical seal assembly with seat and cup
    (1) o-ring
    (1) lip seal
    (1) lock tab washer
    All other components can be cleaned up and reused for a complete water pump rebuild.
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  19. Dave Bendl

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    Timing Case Disassembly
    Once off the engine, the timing case is brought to the bench. The front main seal is removed. The woodruff keys are removed from the shafts along with the outer snap rings. After removing the outer bearing seals, a pencil torch is used to heat the inner race of the bearing applying just enough heat to tap the shaft out if the bearing's inner race with a copper mallet. The shaft, with it's attached gear is removed from the back of the casing. The gear & shaft must be individually identified so each can be reinstalled as it came out. The oil seals are easily removed using a flat blade screwdriver. The bearings with the spring washer can be removed through the front of the casing.
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  20. Dave Bendl

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    Replacement Parts
    Photo shows replacement parts required to perform the major service on serial 40565 less required hoses, v-belts, and the A/C receiver dryer and fluids. Lots of gaskets, seals, bearings, and o-rings.Total parts is slightly over $2,200.00 which includes the full clutch kit with release and pilot bearings, axle boots, shift rod bushing, and both air intake bellows.
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  21. Dave Bendl

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    Timing Case Reassembly
    After disassembly, gasket material was removed, and the case was cleaned with fresh solvent while making sure the oil pump assembly was isolated from any contamination. The bearing/seal bores were cleaned with lacquer thinner.

    Outer Sealed Ball Bearings
    While under a heat lamp, a heat gun was used to further warm the bearing bores. The Bellville spring washer is fitted to the bore against the inner snap ring, concave side towards the inner snap ring. Fresh SKF 6203 2RS sealed ball bearings are fitted from the front of the timing case. Because the case was warm and the bearings cold, just a light tapping on the outer race was all that was required to press the bearing "home" to install the outer snap ring.

    T-Belt Drive Shaft Oil Seals
    I prefer a light coat of Pliobond adhesive on the O.D. (case) when installing lip seals. The seals are installed with the spring side (pressure side) towards the engine. The seals are pressed in from the back side of the timing case. The seal lips are lubricated with clean engine oil after installation.

    T-Belt Drive Shafts & Gears
    During disassembly these were cleaned and placed in marked zip-lock bags with their orentation to ensure they were not mixed during reassembly. Cylinder 1-6 meshes with the oil pump gear, so gear mesh was also marked. The shafts are tapped into the bearing inner races from the back side of the timing case.

    Front Main Seal
    Pressed in through the front of the casing. Again a thin coat of Pliobond was used on the O.D.

    T-Belt Drive Pulleys
    The Woodruff keys are tapped into the shafts and the pulleys are ready to install. This will be done after the case is installed on the engine. The ring nuts are self locking so new ones sourced.

    Inner Bearings
    A small slide hammer puller fitted with a very small (2) hook jaw will used to remove the inner bearings from their bores. Fresh SKF 6201 JEM ball bearings were sourced to complete the timing case assembly.
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  22. Dave Bendl

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    Water Pump Reassembly

    Install a new Lip Seal in the Housing Bore
    Spring (Pressure side) towards the engine. I use a light coat of Pliobond on the casing O.D. Give the seal lips a light coat of clean engine oil.

    Install a new Mechanical Seal Stationary Seat & Cup in the Housing Bore
    The polished face is always installed so it mates with the rotating seal assembly. A light coat of Pliobond is fine to use on the OD of the seat cup. The stationary seat is ceramic so be careful not to crack it during installation.

    Tap in a new 6002 JEM Inner Bearing
    Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil. Both bearings are SKF 6002 open, ball type. install the spring washers then the snap ring.

    Insert the bearing spacer and tap in a new 6002 JEM outer bearing. Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil.

    Align the bearing spacer with the outer bearing's inner race and tap in the impeller shaft with gear from the back side of the housing.

    Install the new mechanical seal's rotating assembly on the small diameter end of the stepped shaft sleeve. If desired use a soapy water solution to ease the installation. Make sure the carbon rotating face is pointed towards the larger shaft sleeve diameter. Pull the tail end of the seal's rubber bellows back flush with the end of the sleeve. The tail end of the rubber bellows is a secondary seal surface and seals against the back side of the impeller. This prevents a leak path between the seal sleeve and the impeller shaft.

    Slide the shaft sleeve & seal over the impeller shaft.

    Install the impeller, washer, new lock tab washer, and nut by pressing down on the impeller (compressing the mechanical seal spring) and tighten the nut. At this point you can torque the nut to spec and bend the small end of the lock tab over a flat of the nut, or install the water pump assembly on the engine then torque the nut & bend the lock tab. I will wait & do this on the engine. Check to ensure the shaft rotates freely without any binding. There should be a slight drag from the mechanical seal.

    Install a new o-ring on the housing.
    View attachment 2488065 View attachment 2488066 View attachment 2488067 View attachment 2488068 View attachment 2488069 View attachment 2488070
     
  23. Dave Bendl

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    Water Pump Reassembly

    Install a new Lip Seal in the Housing Bore
    Spring (Pressure side) towards the engine. I use a light coat of Pliobond on the casing O.D. Give the seal lips a light coat of clean engine oil.

    Install a new Mechanical Seal Stationary Seat & Cup in the Housing Bore
    The polished face is always installed so it mates with the rotating seal assembly. A light coat of Pliobond is fine to use on the OD of the seat cup. The stationary seat is ceramic so be careful not to crack it during installation.

    Tap in a new 6002 JEM Inner Bearing
    Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil. Both bearings are SKF 6002 open, ball type. install the spring washers then the snap ring.

    Insert the bearing spacer and tap in a new 6002 JEM outer bearing. Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil.

    Align the bearing spacer with the outer bearing's inner race and tap in the impeller shaft with gear from the back side of the housing.

    Install the new mechanical seal's rotating assembly on the small diameter end of the stepped shaft sleeve. If desired use a soapy water solution to ease the installation. Make sure the carbon rotating face is pointed towards the larger shaft sleeve diameter. Pull the tail end of the seal's rubber bellows back flush with the end of the sleeve. The tail end of the rubber bellows is a secondary seal surface and seals against the back side of the impeller. This prevents a leak path between the seal sleeve and the impeller shaft.

    Slide the shaft sleeve & seal over the impeller shaft.

    Install the impeller, washer, new lock tab washer, and nut by pressing down on the impeller (compressing the mechanical seal spring) and tighten the nut. At this point you can torque the nut to spec and bend the small end of the lock tab over a flat of the nut, or install the water pump assembly on the engine then torque the nut & bend the lock tab. I will wait & do this on the engine. Check to ensure the shaft rotates freely without any binding. There should be a slight drag from the mechanical seal.

    Install a new o-ring on the housing.
    View attachment 2488065 View attachment 2488066 View attachment 2488067 View attachment 2488068 View attachment 2488069 View attachment 2488070


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  24. mikael82

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    Good write up, thank you.
     
  25. Dave Bendl

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    Thanks Mikael82.

    Rear Camshaft Seal (Ignition Distributor Drive) and Front Camshaft Seals Replacement

    The Rear Camshaft Seal is replaced simply by tapping out or pressing out the old seal ( P/N108009) from the housing and pressing in a new seal using a thin coat of Pliobond adhesive on the OD.

    (4) Front Camshaft Seals P/N 163987 Are replaced by removing the 6mm camshaft journal nuts and washers equally, removing the camshaft to the bench then removing/replacing the old seals (black) with the new seals (brown). Replace the camshafts with notches aligned to the front journal cap with the flywheel is in the 1/6 position. All nuts need to be re-torqued to factory specifications.
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  26. Dave Bendl

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    Previous "Front Camshaft Seals Replacement"
    I neglected to mention: Each camshaft was removed and replaced individually. If you remove all camshafts at the same time be sure to identify each to ensure each is returned to its correct location. Also note that each journal cap is stamped with a number and should be returned to the same as marked on the cylinder head and to the same orientation.

    Inner Timing Drive Bearings

    These don't concern me as much as the "sealed for life" outer bearings, but while I'm in the neighborhood I may as well replace them. A small slide hammer fitted with a very small (1) hook jaw was used to remove the inner bearings from their crankcase bores. Fresh SKF 6201 JEM oil lubricated ball bearings were tapped in. The timing case cover assembly previously refurbished is now ready to be installed.

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  27. Dave Bendl

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    Remounting the Timing Case and Engine/Trans Case
    We finally got a break from our at or below zero (F) weather so the garage heater was able to maintain a nice 70 degree F temperature with ease. Great for doing this procedure.

    Timing Case Installation
    This can be trickey since the gears are helical cut and (5) gears, need to be meshed at the same time. When you mesh the timing gears and fit the cover, the orentation marks I made, changed as the case is pressed into place. I did a "dry" fit prior to installation to see where to start the gears, so the marks I started with prior to disassembly match. Once finding that position, I was satisfied to install the casing.
    Using Anti-Seize Technology AST-RTV White Silicone Sealant/Instant Gasket available from Grainger (item# 4UJ98)
    the timing case gasket was lightly coated with sealer on both sides then placed over the studs. The inner bearings, gears & front main seal were coated with clean engine oil. The gears were meshed in position and the case was pressed home. Wave washers and 8x1.25 mm locknuts are installed.
    The belt pulley lock nuts will be torqued following this procedure.

    Resealing the Engine/Trans Case

    After cleaning all mating surfaces & replacing all casing and the 3 oil pickup O-rings, A light coat of white AST-RTV was applied evenly over the trans case flange. An additional amount of sealer was applied where the timing case gasket meets the trans casing.
    The trans case is transfered under the engine and slowly lowered just low enough to start the (2) nuts below the rear main seal and the two front nuts. If you don't do this and fully engage the two casing halfs, you won't be able to get these washers/nuts on the studs due to lack of clearance. The balance of wave washers & 10x1.25mm locknuts are installed using a tightning sequence from center out and alternating sides.
    When complete, there should be a very small, consistant bead of silicone around all mating surfaces.
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