512 BBI Boxer Engine Out Major Service S/N 40565

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Dave Bendl, Dec 10, 2017.

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  1. Dave Bendl

    Dave Bendl Formula Junior
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    Yes. I found some 3.95mm thick spare valve shim pads that I needed to reduce to 3.50mm. They are now in cylinder 1 intake and exhaust positions to give a test clearance of .5mm. I should be able to recheck the cam timing by this weekend.
     
  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Rookie
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    please let us know then at what ° the valves ( in and outlet ) will open and close. would be interested to know how many ° then there is the difference. so I think you have then to adjust the timing new.
     
  3. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Rookie
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    with your correct adjusted valve clearance your cam have 243°/244°
    with the 0.5 mm adjusting play your cams then have less
    only for compare: a BMW serie 5, M88, 6 cylinder has 272 °, those ° are crankshaft °

    who knows the ° for 512 BBLM?
     
  4. Dave Bendl

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    With the valve clearance adjusted on cylinder 1 to .50mm the following readings were recorded this AM using the degree wheel:
    intake opens at: 4 deg ATDC
    closes at 120 deg ABDC

    Exhaust opens at 149 deg BBDC
    closes at 7 deg ATDC

    Currently, at flywheel mark PM1/6 all camshaft marks align with their prospective cap markings..
     
  5. Dave Bendl

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    Cylinder 7-12 Exhaust Cam Adjustment, and Shift Shaft Installation
    I noticed while rotating the crankshaft and circling back to PM1/6 that all camshaft marks aligned perfectly with their prospective caps except 7-12 exhaust. On the mark, but not dead on like the others.
    Bending the lock tab and removing the cam pulley bolt to check for an alternate position, I found one as shown in the first image. But wait...that stepped dowel pin. I wonder? Measuring it with a micrometer, for both the large and smaller diameter, it looked like it might just pass for the stepped pin needed for setting the shift fork when reinstalling the shift shaft as noted by turbo-joe earlier. I used some adhesive as a temporary measure to attach it to a socket bit to lengthen the pin for ease of inserting it through the housing and shaft hole. The socket head screw from the bottom of the housing is removed. (see the mirror image). A new o-ring/seal, P/N 105140 was coated with oil and placed in it's housing groove. Earlier in the day, a new isolation bushing was pressed into the shaft eye.
    Following turbo-joe's instructions, see https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/tr-transaxle-rebuild.564813/#post-145734066 the shaft was re-installed and set up accordingly. Blue thread lock was used and the 8x1.25 bolt torqued to the WSM recommendation of 3.2 KG.
    The multi-purpose stepped pin will be demounted from the socket and returned to it's new position in the cam pulley. The camshaft bolt will receive a new o-ring and re-torqued.
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  6. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    When I checked my cam timing with a degree wheel, even that the marks on the camshaft lined up. The optimum timing was still off a few degrees. When the timing was correct the marks were very slightly off, but still lined up. If this makes any sense to you.

    Dave A.
     
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  8. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Dave B.
    I will make you a set up pin if you want, I gave mine away to someone that could use it. Simple to make another one.
     
  9. Dave Bendl

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    Thanks ago car nut but the cam step pin worked out just fine.
     
  10. Dave Bendl

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    I may circle back to degree wheel timing, but first I will be doing more homework and discussing the procedure with a few people before proceeding. Following the WSM, alignment of the marks on all camshafts is clearly documented, past this point is not clear.
     
  11. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Dec 26, 2001
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    The marks get you close for sure and if cam timing is dead on when verified with a degree wheel its pure luck. As you found, the notch in the cap allows the steak mark on the cam to be within the slot but timing can be off 4 degrees easily.
     
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  12. Dave Bendl

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    The last time I did this I referenced Bill Badurski's degree wheel timing technical article/procedure in the FCA Prancing Horse Magazine #151. I'm reading it now which should help clarify a few things.
     
  13. Dave Bendl

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    Cylinder 1-6 Exhaust Cam Degree Wheel/Flywheel "CS" Mark Timing

    The last time I did this (10 years ago) I referenced Bill Badurski's degree wheel timing technical article/procedure in the FCA Prancing Horse Magazine #151 published 2nd quarter 2004. It's a great technical write up. Thanks Bill!

    Badurski, the Technical Chair for the FCA for a number of years did a great job of explaining cam timing in detail, but in a format/procedure that made sense. Using his procedure, I was able to degree cylinder 1 exhaust and intake valves today. Here's the highlights, but first some tips that I needed to learn the hard way:
    1. Ensure all distractions are out of the way. This was not a multitask procedure for me. Especially if you don't do this everyday. Your full focus is needed to ensure you stay on track.. This was my initial mistake during previous attempts during this service.
    2. Use dry board markers to make notes on the degree wheel. Even directional arrows on the back side since I was using the flywheel ring gear to rotate the crankshaft and losing orientation was easy. Using markers will help you plot where you are and where you need to be with cam timing.
    3. Badurski references in his article, the flywheel markings, (example "CS" is exhaust valve closed) and other valve open/close flywheel marks which can be used with or without a degree wheel for cam timing using a DTI. According to Badurski, you can use either method, or both if you wish. Each bank has a set of fly wheel marks. It's up to you to decide degree wheel, or flywheel marks or both.
    4. Just my opinion...Do each valve (intake, exhaust) at a time. Today I did cylinder 1. Tomorrow Cylinder 7.

    Cylinder 1 Exhaust
    Image 1 shows where flywheel mark "CS" is while the cylinder 1 exhaust valve closes before cam pulley adjustment. The cam marks on this camshaft were perfectly aligned when the flywheel pointer was aligned with PM1/6
    Image 2 shows Cyl 1 exhaust marked up degree wheel before and after adjustments.
    Image 3 shows flywheel mark "CS" after exhaust cam pulley adjustment.
    Image 4 shows adjusted mark position of cylinder 1 exhaust after adjustment. Not perfectly aligned.

    Once rechecked and verified, the O-rings for exhaust and intake camshaft bolts will be replaced.

    Cylinder 1 Intake to follow in the next post. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  15. Dave Bendl

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    Cylinder 1-6 Intake Cam Degree Wheel/Flywheel "AA" Timing Mark
    Flywheel Mark "AA" is identified as 1-6 Intake Valve Open

    The cam marks on this camshaft were perfectly aligned when the flywheel pointer was aligned with PM1/6
    Image 1 shows Cyl 1 Intake marked up degree wheel before and after adjustments.
    Image 2 shows flywheel mark "AA" after Intake cam pulley adjustment.
    Image 3 shows adjusted mark position of cylinder 1-6 Intake cam after adjustment. Not perfectly aligned.
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  16. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Rookie
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    so you see that those marks are only for putting on the timing belts and can turn the engine without any valve damage
    to do the belt job right you need a degree wheel
     
  17. Dave Bendl

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    Flywheel mark PM1/6 is for putting on the timing belts, There are other factory flywheel marks for valve open/valve close. According to Bill Badurski's FCA article, a degree wheel or the flywheel marks can be used. Note I am using both.
     
  18. Dave Bendl

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    Cylinder 7-12 Intake and Exhaust Cam Degree Wheel/Flywheel PM7/12, AA, and CS, Timing Marks
    The Dial Test Indicator (DTI) is transferred from cylinder 1 to cylinder 7 intake then exhaust positions. Shim pads are replaced on cylinder 7 intake and exhaust allowing a .020" (.5mm) test clearance.

    Both cam markings on this bank were perfectly aligned prior to this adjustment
    Image 1 Degree wheel zeroed with PM7/12 flywheel mark
    Image 2 Cyl 7 Intake and exhaust marked up degree wheel before and after adjustments.
    Image 3 Flywheel mark "AA" (intake open) after Intake cam pulley adjustment.
    Image 4 Adjusted mark position of cylinder 7-12 Intake cam after adjustment. Not perfectly aligned.
    Image 5 Adjusted mark position of cylinder 7-12 exhaust cam after adjustment. Not perfectly aligned.
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  19. Dave Bendl

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    Cooling Hose Couplings, and Hardware Torqued

    Upper Cross Tube requires 1-1/4" ID Hose.
    Lower Tube requires 1-1/8" ID Hose

    The following Torque Settings were applied:
    Tensioners: 6.6 Kg (48 Ft Lbs)
    Flywheel: WSM States 3.1Kg. To low at 23 Ft Lbs See last major, corrected to 62 Ft Lbs. Blue thread lock applied.
    Cam Pulleys: 11Kg (79.5 Ft Lbs) Tabs bent to locking position.
    Harmonic Balancer: 20 Kg (144.6 Ft Lbs)
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  20. Dave Bendl

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    Final Cam Mark Images Aligned with Flywheel Mark PM 1/6, Install Cam Covers
    Before buttoning up the cam covers, installing the A/C compressor, and vacuum pump I took final cam mark images as aligned with flywheel mark PM1/6 as follows:
    Cyl 1-6 Exhaust
    Cyl 1-6 Intake
    Cyl 7-12 Exhaust
    Cyl 7-12 Intake
    Also Image showing vacuum pump installation.
    New clutch installation next, then once the weather warms a bit the engine/gearbox is ready to drop in.
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  21. Dave Bendl

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    Mounting the new Clutch Assembly

    The next and final component on the engine prior to engine installation is to install the clutch assembly. The 512BBI has twin discs along with a central pressure plate. The re-used aluminum external spacer is installed first, then the ridgid hub disc is installed against the flywheel following the manufacturers directional labels. The new central pressure plate is installed using the flywheel mounted locating pins to retain the central pressure plate during installation.
    The disc with the spring hub is installed, since this is a new assembly the supplied spacer washers are installed behind the new pressure plate. The studs get a coating of blue thread lock, and the nuts are hand tightening only.

    Peering through the output shaft bores you can see the splines for both clutch discs and pilot bearing. Since the pressure plate is not tightened at this point, the clutch plates and splines can be rough aligned by shifting the plates with finger pressure. Once centered and rough aligned, the output shaft (attached to the bell housing) is used for final alignment by simply sliding the bell housing in place. A little wiggling on the bell housing is all it takes to get it to align. Once satisfied with the alignment, the bell housing is removed and the nuts are tightened. The bell housing is installed again to ensure proper alignment, removed and the 8x1.25 mm nuts are torqued to 23 ft lbs.

    The engine is now ready for installation. The bell housing and transfer case will be installed to the engine after the engine is installed.
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  22. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Don't forget the o-rings between the bellhousing and block. ;)
     
  23. Dave Bendl

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    Yes.. Thank you David. Fresh O-Rings for the bell housing and block are in a baggie awaiting installation!
     
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  24. pshoejberg

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    Are those nuts on the clutch pressure plate properly engaged on the pins? It looks like the pins are too short.

    Best Peter
     
  25. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Rookie
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    as I see it the nuts are not tighten completely when the photo has been made
     
  26. Dave Bendl

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    Correct. The nuts were hand tightened only at the point the photos were taken to show the spacers behind the pressure plate. Once tightened, the pressure plate seats fully with the pins.
     
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  27. Dave Bendl

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    Engine Installation
    I really wanted to drop the engine in before the beginning of April so yesterday we had a break in the weather. This would require the garage door open for much of the time so no heat. A snow storm missed us, but hit just south west. So I took the opportunity. The engine is slung nose down. It went well. Once the engine is in place the mount bolts are installed and the car is pushed outside. The lift ramps are reinstalled and the car pulled back up the lift ramps using a come-along wench. The lift and the car is then raised to capture the rear clamshell from the ceiling. It's a good days work and I'm glad its done.

    Last week the 4 new CV Joint boots were installed and the 2 Bosch fuel filters were changed.
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