I am planning to tackle the cam belts on my 1992 512 TR. 13,000 miles and nothing has been done to the engine since new. Is it true that with the 512 TR there is the OPTION of taking the engine out from the top OR the bottom; any recommendations? Also, what is recommended to be replaced once the engine is out? - water pump...replace or rebuild? - clutch replace? - all hoses that are accessable because the engine is out? - anything else that might be best to do at this time? - any specific hints that saves one days of grief?
ITS GOT TO COME OUT THE TOP THIS IS HOW TO DO IT Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
then you clean it paint it Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
then put it back in Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rattle can paint on the valve covers. Looks great. Sortta like the lesser TR in many aspects, but somehow different. Thanks for the pix.
I've seen this done multiple times at my local Ferrari shop, and they have always taken it out through the bottom. They disconnect everything, slide a stand underneath the engine, lower the lift until the engine sub frame is resting on the stand, disconnect the sub frame bolt, and raise the car. The whole thing comes out with the rear suspension. I'm no expert but that's what I have seen the experts do over and over.
That is not how you remove the engine in a 512TR. The 512TR has the solid frame which was needed to stiffen the chassis with the increased power etc.. The engine in a 512TR comes out the top, and the 91 and earlier Testarossa model has the removable sub frame and the engine is dropped like you describe.
you need to go on a ferrari id course as you must of seen testarossa's getting done muliple times as the tr and f512m comes out the top it is not sat in a frame like the testarossa and 355
ok, I stand corrected. I can tell a TR from a 512TR from an M, just didn't realize they changed the sub frame set up.
Oh well, BFD. I know quite a few owners that don't know that either. Most of them just want to drive them and don't care how they are built.
Pilot, I will post a couple of tips that are useful. First, if your water pump seems to work effectively, I would not replace as it may well develop a leak where it attaches to the block. Look for evidence of leaking on the block (behind the cam belt covers). No appearance of leak, I would not replace. Hoses are a case bay case basis, look for oil contamination on outside and squeeze to see if spongy or brittle (from heat or dry climate). Transfer hose between fuel tanks needs a clos eye, if at all brittle, replace. After you disconnect the CV joints, remove the bolts from the lower control arms, both sides. Wedge the lower part of the suspension out as far as the upper shock tower/arm will let you (about 1 to 2 inches). May not seem like much, but when you swing the motor in and out, you will need the room to get the CV's in and out of the sockets where the the hub flanges on the tranny are. Get a large tub for the motor oil when you drain, be pepared for about 2.5 gallons after you disconnect the oil reservoir. Buy a "load leveler" from Harbor Freight or some other outfit, for around $40.00. You will need to lift the rear of the engine up at an angle and swing the engine back before the front will clear the bulkhead. When you remove the trim cover under the rear window, also remove the two center brackets that hold the trim piece on. The allen head bolts tend to rust, so take them out carefully, 'cause if they break, your gonna drill and tap em. Hold your breath when you pull the battery cable connection apart. It is on the front drivers side cam belt cover, looks like it will not come apart, but it will, so pull hard. You will likely get a knuckler on this one, so you might want to wear gloves. After you ask yourself "what were these guys thinkin?" ten times in this project, give up aksing. It makes sense to the Italians, so it does not need to make sense to anyone else. Carefully note the routing of the throttle cable and bracket. You will have this off when you change the belts, and if you put it on backwards you will only discover it after the engine is back in (as I did) and you will be turning it around because the cable will not route properly. Ditto for the radiator hose that attaches to the aluminum transfer tubes on the passenger side, mark it closely. Have fun, enjoy what you are doing,and be patient. If I can help in any other way, send me a PM. Rod
A couple of time savers.. You DONT need to mess with the suspension.... the drive shafts will clear the tranny as it goes up (I know it doesn't look like it, but it does ok). It does need an assistant, and refitting is doubly tricky, but still easier than messing with the suspension (which then needs to be re-aligned and torqued up at ride height not on droop). Also, Unless I'm changing the AC dryer anyway, I leave the AC compressor in the car. It ends up about the same time taken. I still top up the gas etc as part of a service, but I don't risk damage/deterioration to the dryer by leaving it exposed to air (same with TRossa and BB). Water pump... check the tell tale hole. If it's all clear it's a 50-50 choice. Sometimes, new pump seals can take a while to bed in, so for a while you may actually induce a leak that wasn't there before. If the valve covers come off... torque the heads. Loosen them slightly first. You can do tappets and head torque in situ BTW, but not belts efficiently. Take the exhaust off as a huge lump in only a few steps.... I leave the whole silencer, cats AND link pipes assembled as one big part, then lower it all on a trolley jack and plank of wood. Then remove the manifolds. This saves loads of time and hassle with exhaust bolts and gaskets, but of course, if there is need to pay attention to these, then strip the whole thing. Clutch... unless worried, not worth the expense. Can be done easily at any time when needed. (I still cannot believe how some dealers up sell this, even on 355 etc where its SO easy).
No mounting points. One strap around front, one strap around back. Higher at the back so you can clear the cross member and slide the A/C compressor out from under the cowl.
