I searched the oldies and found very little about how to know if the clutch on my 2000 car is nearing its end. Rifledriver stated in one old thread that..".. you can tell all about the clutch by looking under the car.".... but no one asked how.....would this be relative to a slave cylinder rod position? Does anyone know if the clutch can be adjusted by a layman...outisde of the dreaded dealer sd-2 device? My clutch seems ok except that it engages very late in the up/out stroke and seems to go "over-center" to disengage...ie, very heavy. Hope someone can shed some light on this for me...thanks in advance.
There is no slave cylinder rod. There is a guide for the T.O. bearing anti rotation pin in the bell housing. When the pin is in the middle of the slot the clutch is new. when the pin is at the back of the slot the T.O. bearing cannot back up any more and the bearing starts taking pressure off the disc until it starts slipping. Or you can just do it the old fashioned way. The higher the pedal before friction point the more the clutch is worn until it starts to slip. There is no adjustment.
Thanks for your very helpful respone "Rifledriver". I have a drive on auto lift which could be used to facilitate replcement of the clutch....as there is no gear box to remove does anyone think it's within the ability of a shade tree person....I hesitate to use the word "mechanic" to enjoy the experience of replacement. For some reason the name Ferrari striked fear into me every time I consider undertaking jobs I've done before on Miata's, Cobra's and MGB's etc!!!! Thanks and have a great weekend everyone.
Hi thibaut, The car has 16,000 miles of which I'm responsible for 3,000. I've had no problems... just concerned about the high action (long travel) of the clutch peddle. Rifledriver, I'm not sure what you mean.... but as far as the gear box is concerned I always understood it was a ZF transaxle which incorporates the diff and lives at the rear of the car. That being my understanding I assumed that there would be some kind of bell housing covering the clutch but having a prop/drive shaft exiting it and providing the drive to the transaxle....my mistake??? Anyway, I'll take a look at it on a lift and see what it looks like. There isn't much choice here for service work. FCI does good work but the costs are unreasonable....from my limited experience with the TR. Thanks to you both.
For the bell housing to be removed the torque tube needs to be removed. For the torque tube to be removed the transaxle needs to be removed.
for the transaxle to be removed, the exhaust needs to be removed.. the knee bone's connected to the, shin bone...
Rifledriver and ferrarifixer have ruined my dream.....but thanks for saving me from what sounds like certain serious trouble. That's why we so appreciate your input and the chance to discuss all here on FC. Thanks again for all the input.
On my 550 the cluch has about 10 mm free play, the manuel says Zero free play. what that 10 mm free play says. Requires cluch pedal adjustment. The cluch pedal is the same hight as the break pedal. Thanks
Thanks to you all for your help. Owens84QV, I've looked up these guys and have them listed in my favorites...many thanks. dersark_painclinic, I don't seem to have any free play although I'm not sure where you are measuring yours. Both brake and clutch are at the same height when feet are removed. I don't have a wsm to look at, is yours on a CD? If so, where can I buy one? Thanks
With all of the help I've been given over the years, it feels good to give some back, no matter how minor the give-back is. Let us know how it works out...
