Hello friends, In the process of fully assessing my new to me 550 I had discovered a leaking fuel delivery line from the tank to the fuel filter. Today, with new fuel lines in hand, I removed the rear panel in the trunk shielding the fuel tank from the boot. On the right hand fuel pump assembly I noticed a little "wetness" at the bottom of the ring nut holding the assembly in. In the photo below I am using a Q-tip to pick up the wetness, which when put to the nose is, you guessed it, fuel. Boo. There is also some questionable gooeyness near the fuel neck filler pipe. So obviously I need to drain the tank and R&R the gaskets and possibly the plastic lids of the fuel pumps. I have two questions I hoped the experts could help me with. 1. Has anyone been able to source a ring nut wrench large enough for the nut that holds each fuel pump assembly in? 2. Those of you that have drained the fuel tank, how have you done it? The WSM says to detach the fuel hoses from the fuel rail under hood and point them down and then run the pumps (I assume by applying current to the wiring of each pump in the trunk). The problem with this approach is that the manual says that this method fails to eliminate ALL of the fuel from the tank. Has anyone tried siphoning or disconnecting the fuel lines from the filters and then running the pumps? Suggestions? Thanks a bunch for any and all assistance! Image Unavailable, Please Login
When I did the check valves gaskets I just shoved a hose down the filler and used a little 12 volt transfer pump I had. There may have been a gallon or so left but that got most of the fuel out. Saved breaking the fuel line. Jacking up the drivers side might get more out, I didn't do that. You could probably siphon most of it out as well. I didn't because I had the pump and I hate the taste of gasoline.
Hi Pete, I couldn't find a commercial ring nut wrench so I had one made. Here's the sketch I made for the fabricator to work from, plus a photo of the finished product. Raw materials were a 5" circular blank disc of 3/8" or 1/2" aluminum from McMaster's: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9034K24, and some 1" x 1/8" flatbar. The fabricator cut 4" out of my 5" disc, then bent and welded the flat bar as shown, then finally drilled and tapped the holes. To build it again, I would probably have the holes drilled & tapped before the center was bored out, but certainly before the flat bar was formed and welded. It's harder to drill & tap accurately with that flatbar cluttering up the area, and consequently two of my holes were off a little. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It looks to me like a variable pin spanner wrench would take care of this "tool" problem once and for all. Such as this one: http://www.otctools.com/products/variable_pin_spanner_wrench I have ordered one and will advise. Regards, Pete
That's a versatile looking tool. Although I don't need one right now I may be forced to buy one. I can't resist tools, it's a incurable disease I have.
