I am sure they are for some. I drive fast. They are not for me, especially here in Arizona. We have had it since 1999 (first owner) and it didn’t bother me much when we lived in Kalifornia. Lots of street lights and ambient light. Here there are no street lights and the only ambient light is from the moon. To be fair the older Porsche we have is awful as well. I don’t like the experience from most new cars but I love the lighting they have.
I guess I have good night vision. My 1995 F355 Challenge had very anemic headlights. I replaced the high and low beam bulbs with LEDs with good results... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I put yellow LED bulbs in my flashers and wired and switched them for independent use as driving lights while on the track... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just like the big boys in the Rolex 24 Hours... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Running lights are a good idea on the track.
They run lights to differentiate the class. That is why the Protoss have white and the lower class has yellow. Makes it much easier for the slow cars to know when they are going to get passed. does look good though. Those flashers are perfect for that! we only ran lights on our race cars for enduros into the dark. =)
And that's why I chose yellow (3000K) LED bulbs for my flashers. As my car had its electric door locking mechanisms removed, I use this switch (partially hidden by the shifter) to turn my flashers on and off... Image Unavailable, Please Login If I have to flash a car ahead of me, I flick that switch off and use the light stalk.
I've shared the track with prototypes like that one. They come up on me really fast. And I have my pedal to the floor!
I out in LEDs two years ago and they have been VERY good. Before that I had these cheap HID/xenon kits and they were not good. They used alot of power to start up. When I went from high beam to low beam, or started the car with the lights in on position (most cars are having the lights on always because we have low beams always ON by law here), one of the Zenon bulbs would not come on resulting in dring around with only one bulb lit…. never a problem with the LEDs. But the light is less bright than when I just installed them. The car looks more modern too.
I am working with Morimoto to see about the front led projector upgrade now too. I will report once there is progress.
Yes, LEDs are great for headlights as I showed in post #30 And this... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Do (US-spec) 456M and 550s use the same fog light bulb size? I guess I’ll check later when at a proper computer. What LED replacement bulbs are people running? I updated my turn signals / reverse lights using Scud Ing units but wanted to eventually upgrade the fogs too now. Note US and ROW use different bulbs generally, YMMV
Let us know if you come up with anything I would love to buy a set as well! I also have the morimoto rear lens, luv!
My daily driver winter beater has similar H7 low and H1 high beam setup as 550. When I used best what money can buy halogen Osram or Philips bulbs in it H7 low beams used to die very quickly. Sometimes both sides on same day under two months. Lower light output long life bulbs lasted longer but output was obviously worse. Got fed up of constantly changing low beams which means removing light fixture from car to get access to bulbs and got Philips Ultinon 9100 LED's to replace H7's. They have now been in use for six months without any problems. Light output is better than any halogen I have ever seen. Pattern is also ok. Based on above I got 9100 LED's for both low and high beams for 550. Both types have fan at backend of bulb fixture which is small enough to fit inside 550 light fixture. H1 has separate box as H1 bulb is so small that everything needed don't fit to bulb but extra box is small enough to fit inside fixture. Only problem is H1 by design earths itself through bulb body. Philips in their infinite wisdom decided to coat that part of LED bulb with non conductive coating. Once this is removed from right places also H1 works fine. Even without wiring change this is good for main board as LED's are using 23W instead of 55W what halogens use. Meaning amps going through board is also under half from stock halogens. Combined with direct feed from battery I feel this is very good setup even when these LED's are $200 for each pair locally.
I have gotten slammed, but going to get back on this with Morimoto (also motivated by a late-night event last week that reminded me how bad the lights are!) lol @Vilhuer thanks for that. I am working to replace the entire projector with a proper LED unit, but if I cannot get that done, I may try your route.
These sound like a good option, have only taken my lights out once and didnt think about sizing of bulbs inside housing. Good tonknow these fit perfectly. Did you have to take off coating on H1 to get them to work or not needed. I was told by a friend to look into the GTR Ultra 2 that they are a great LED but didn't take into consideration the bulb size and if they would fit into housing. I will more than likely giving the Philips a shot!
Looks like I will be following your lead with the GTR Ultra 2. Need an LED upgrade as well, are they a direct bolt on or do you need any other parts to make them fit. DId you do both H7 & H1 for fogs
For my Durango headlights, they were a direct fit and no additional parts were required. Can’t come out however, on the H7’s and H1’s
Different headlight housings completely. My Durango has a reflector type housing. But the 550 is a projector. The GTR quality & fitment were far superior to any of the others for my H13 headlights but if Morimoto had a comparable pair I probably would have tried them
A previous FCHATER used the Philips Ultinon 9100 LED which seemed to fit and work. Wouldn't the GTR fit similarly and work like the Phillips 9100?
