the electric remote trunk opener stopped working. that leaves several sources for the problem. the switch at the dash, the micro switch in the trunk or the switch in the trunk. (yes, the diagram shows 2 switches) i have checked the dash switch and that is getting voltage. does anyone out there know the function of each of the 2 switches in the trunk? since i am alone, i cant check them for voltage - being in the car and at the trunk at the same time. is one of them more likely to fail than the other? anyone had this problem? any thoughts to help me think this thru would be appreciated. thanks
I believe one switch is for the actuator (solenoid), the other is for the light. You can jump the dash switch (the two middle contacts) and check for voltage at the connector under the left tail light cover (yellow wire) and at the switch. Its probably the solenoid though.
My money would be on the solenoid too, however it could be the switch in the trunk is maladjusted. I discovered this awhile back when my "emergency" cable release for the trunk wasn't working, so I started fooling with the height adjustment of the pin at the latch (on the immovable part - not the lid). At one point I nearly had myself in a corner where the electric release wasn't working anymore and the cable release "barely" did. Kept wondering what Plan "C" was going to be if both quit working. The thought crossed my mind to bribe a neighborhood kid to spend some time in the trunk as my backup, but with my luck that would have resulted in me doing some "hard" time somewhere else...... But first, as Dave suggested, jump the dash switch contacts, then check for presence of voltage on the wire in the trunk - it's actually a yellow wire with a green stripe. That'll tell you if the switch on the panel is sending voltage to the circuit in the trunk.
