575 Battery failure after 2 days -like Jason's! | FerrariChat

575 Battery failure after 2 days -like Jason's!

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by MarkCollins, Oct 1, 2012.

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  1. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    Sadly I have a battery problem on my 575 very similar to Jason's problems on his thread http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=384063

    Please excuse the long post!

    About 2 months ago the car was due to go to the dealer for a new windscreen, they were collecting so I went to move it outside and the battery was near completely flat, it had been on a (factory) tender and this had failed, I hadn’t driven it for a week or so and assumed the battery was not in top condition. I fitted a new battery, put it on a tender and 2 days later drove to the dealer whilst visiting New York.

    It took about 10 days before the car was ready, dealer reported no problems however when I got it home the drivers seat would not move with all motors dead, I shut the battery off and after some investigation found the fuse for the seat was not correctly fitted, they swore it wasn’t them!, I stupidly powered the car with the fuse out and it triggered the airbag light, I’ve done this before on other cars (the seat occupied sensor is unpowered so it triggers the error). SD2 reset cured this. I don't think any of the above is relevant but all history may be useful

    Parked the car and put it on a tender, all seemed OK then I left it a few days without a tender and the battery wouldn’t start the car, jumped it and it started OK, charged the battery, back on a tender and it’s OK but if I leave it off the tender for more than 2 days it won’t start.


    I’ve carried out the following checks (with results shown)
    Volts
    Charged Battery 12.9v
    After 1 day 11.91v
    After day 2 11.75v and car will not start

    Amps
    Battery switch off .01a
    Switch on, jumps to .8a then after 10 secs .38a, 15 secs .23a, 20 secs .25a

    Open door 2.3 spike (F1 pump and window drop) close door 1.5a, after 10 secs drops to .72a then .58a, after switch illumination goes out it drops to .07a, the the trunk light appears to pull about .5a to .7a and is definitely going out.

    Remained at .07 for 3 mins plus

    Final test was set alarm, immediate draw of 5a then almost immediately dropped to .18a


    It seems that the amps drawn is only .07 to .25.It’s a new 74a/hr quality battery so I’m at a bit of a loss as to what is knocking it out, seems whatever did it took out the battery tender too, unless that's taken something out on the car :(

    Any and all ideas gratefully received
     
  2. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    Simple things first; have you had the battery 'load' tested?
     
  3. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    Thanks David, not tried that, will do tonight
     
  4. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    You're welcome. Although the current draw is a bit high for my taste, the starter should still engage (happily) with a battery voltage of 11.91 v. I think that you'll find that the battery, tested under load, fails miserably...
     
  5. BOKE

    BOKE Beaks' Gun Rabbi
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jul 13, 2009
    33,965
    600 East Fremont Street
    Full Name:
    Lucky
    Sounds like a bad battery to me.
     
  6. Andrew D.

    Andrew D. F1 Rookie

    Jul 6, 2008
    3,979
    Goodwood Ontario
    Full Name:
    Andrew D.
    Has it ever died on you when driving? after 2 alternators and batteries I had a short to frame in the cable that runs from alternator to starter(rubs thru on the frame,hard to see)
     
  7. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    Andrew

    interesting point, on my way to the dealer after fitting the new battery I had a total power failure just after overtaking somebody the car died, all lights/ dash, engine, gears everything but only for maybe 1 to 2 seconds then came back to life
     
  8. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins

    Hi David

    Well it looks like the brand new battery is toast, it read 12.3v after a charge last night but only turned the engine for maybe 5 seconds and volts dropped to 7.5, another try and it would not turn over, volts dropped to 6.0. time to try a new battery and check for shorts as per Andrew's post
     
  9. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins

    Hi Andrew

    Can you point me to the area where your's was rubbing, also if you have the info and the route of the cable

    Many thanks

    Mark
     
  10. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    Battery has a dead cell and the supplier has replaced it under warranty, I suspect this is effect rather than cause though so still need to investigate and cure the fault, suspected to be a short somewhere.
     
  11. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    An update for anybody following or pulling this up in the future. I fitted the new battery and left the alternator main lead disconnected, with batt switch off I was seeing .02a draw, with switch on .07a, refitting the alternator cable made no difference to the values.

    I tried all scenarios in terms of car locked, alarm set etc etc and each time the draw dropped to around .07a

    Pulling the radio fuse dropped it to .03a so for some reason that is drawing a little current, probably as it has to maintain the code/ mem settings etc?

    New battery recorded 12.38v when fitted and 12.66v after a 10min idle (to reset values). after 24 hours battery is showing 12.22v and started the car easily. Will check again tomorrow.

    Alternator is giving a good 14.4v

    It would be a considerable coincidence that the original battery/ tender failed and was replaced with new and then that partially failed (one cell) within a few days but at the moment it seems that may be the case
     
  12. Modificata

    Modificata F1 Rookie

    Apr 27, 2003
    2,654
    Hampton, England
    Full Name:
    Andy Rasool
    Fingers crossed Mark!
     
  13. ar4me

    ar4me F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Apr 4, 2010
    3,114
    Southern California
    Full Name:
    Jes
    Could it be a defective battery tender that destroyed your battery?
    Jes
     
  14. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
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    Mark Collins
    It may well have affected the first one but it the tender failed too. The tender on the new battery was different and has always worked ok previously so I don't think it's that




    Latest new battery is holding up ok, day 2 12.2v car started ok.
     
  15. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
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    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
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    Mark Collins
    Day 3 11.98v, Car started OK

    if OK tomorrow will put on tender and move on to the next job :)
     
  16. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2011
    1,921
    when you are referring to a battery of 74 ah of reserve it is on the low side of capacity,
    capacity is dependant on group size ( US terminology for physical size ) in the US a group 24 is about as small as is normally used and they can be had in reserve capacities into the 140 ah range for a normal flooded ( wet / std ) cell battery. As physical size increases the reserve capacity increases as well. Most resellers and mechanics don't look at the spec of a battery beyond physical size / "will it fit ". A larger capacity battery does not address the basic issue of excessive current drain, but it will allow for more time before going flat. Before installing a new battery it should be placed on a charger until fully charged, comming off the shelf there is enough power for a few starts, with the assumption that the car is in normal daily service allowing the car to charge the battery to capacity in a day or two of constant driving. Do a bit of internet research about battery offerings and you will see that there are better choices than minimum capacity you are presently using.
     
  17. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
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    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
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    Mark Collins
    #17 MarkCollins, Oct 5, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks for the feedback, I'll have a read. I bought a Varta Silver as they're a premium product alongside Bosch in Europe /UK, indeed Varta came out on top in a German car magazine test I read last Year.

    Below are the tech specs for the battery fitted, be interested on your comments on these

    thanks
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  18. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2011
    1,921
    #18 cheesey, Oct 5, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2012
    "premium" is a marketing term and has no relation to the specs of a battery, hopefully it addresses the quality in the construction

    your tables show a European case size and physical dimension which is close to what in the US is a Group 24, which is in the smaller size range of batteries available...and I can address capacities of batteries of similar size.

    CCA or cold cranking amperes refers to the starting power of a battery, is a measure of delivering a lot of power during a start which is measured in seconds of capacity

    Ah or ampere hours is the capacity of a battery to deliver power over time at a slow rate. Battery construction is skewed to favor one or the other or both.

    If your battery drain is high while the car not running, then CCA is meanless value since it applies to starting only...Ah is like getting a larger fuel tank in the battery as it will allow it to perform for a longer time before going flat

    As I mentioned a 77 Ah battery is at the bottom of the capacity range and a similar physical sized battery can deliver up to 140 Ah or reserve power. The extra Ah comes at a weight penalty of 2-3 Kg more than what you have spec in the tables . If there is no abnormal battery drain this can extend the time before the battery goes flat... I am still talking about a standard battery, not any of the higher tech batteries.

    Battery reviews generally are meaningless , usually refer to visits to the warranty window and not much else. Current generation cars have a lot of things that need to be powered up while the motor is not running, switching the key off only turns the motor off. When getting a new battery one must look beyond "will it start the car" ( the CCA number ) and consider the Ah number as this is what powers the various computers, alarms, etc when the car is not in use. In my example of the 140 Ah Interstate Gp-24 battery would double the capacity of what you have, it is a std battery with a suggest retail price of about $110 (US) it is not an exotic battery... the selling dealer only sells the items he can make the greatest margin. There is a new series of batteries that are coming to market that are better at addressing the Ah issues, look for them. I recently went to a distributer to ask about this new generation of batteries ( which acts almost like an AGM ) , his comment was he didn't really know much about them and their slightly higher price point probably wouldn't sell. Become informed, mechanics and dealers may not know what they are talking about.
     
  19. 456 koirra

    456 koirra Karting

    Aug 18, 2005
    95
    Finland
    Correct. But I believe Mark was very well informed when deciding on the battery. However, if you can point out some batteries which will almost double the true ah of the Varta are pointers more than welcome.
     
  20. maranello72

    maranello72 Formula Junior

    Jul 4, 2009
    354
    Munich, Germany
    Full Name:
    Stefano
    Earlier this year I've replaced my 550's five year old Varta Blue for an identical one. The old battery was still cranking well, I just replaced it because it had reached its life expectancy.
    I did consider Varta Silver, but this is a gel battery and some say these batteries don't last as long as flooded ones.

    That said, I had a Varta Blue failing after just two years in another car due to a shorted element....

    Stefano
     
  21. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
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    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
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    Mark Collins
    Hi Stefano, interesting, doesn't appear to be a gel battery (plenty of fluid sloshing about inside !) but understand your dislike of them
     
  22. maranello72

    maranello72 Formula Junior

    Jul 4, 2009
    354
    Munich, Germany
    Full Name:
    Stefano
    OK Mark, I guess I should have gone for Silver then, tsk....

    Stefano
     

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