575 f1 clutch question

think that is highly variable…

my '04 575 has 67k miles on it now…initial clutch replaced by original owner at 22k miles…but sounded more like it was an f1 sensor problem/while we're there let's replace the clutch as well.

so 45k miles on that clutch now…was measured at 22% wear when it had about 35k miies on it.

39% seems kinda high with only 15k miles

then again…have heard of other clutches needing replacement w less than 20k miles.

regarding prices…last i heard….somewhere in the ballpark of $6-8K

 

Larry- A visual check can be made with a borescope to see actual clutch wear. The throw-out bearing pin sticks out when there is clutch life left and is flush with the guide when worn. Mine still had 13 mm protruding last time my techs looked.

I have not heard a number on the 575s for when clutches need replacing. On the 360s it was about 70% from what I have read, but they have thinner clutch plates.

Maybe Brian can chime in with some real numbers.

When the clutch is changed, it makes sense to change the clutch position sensor, the throw-out bearing, and possibly the pilot bearing as well, so parts cost is pretty high. When the clutch is changed, the rear exhaust needs to be removed, the axles disconnected, and the transaxle removed or slid back. I think Brian said it is easier to just remove the transaxle.

 

Hi Larry,
after advice of other members and correct observation of Taz, my experience...

When i bought my HGTC (jan of 2013) she had 38500 Km, the clutch wear was 31%.
Now i have 44000 Km and clutch wear is 36%
The clutch wear depends very much on the driver, exactly like the pedal clutch type!
Specially the most wear is on start phase, is not good a soft playing with gas pedal for a slow start, during this phase the clutch have big slippage with consequently wear.
On start is better push the gas pedal with decision (a little decision ...) in order to have a clutch plate closing without big slippage.
When i'm in a traffic light stop, or stop in a cars column, i put gear in neutral in order to not have the bearing clucht push and pressure plate open, i did the same when i had my old 550, in stop i put in neutral and release clutch pedal.
However F1 gearbox on 575 is more affidable and working better than 360 F1, this is word of my dealer.

Best Regards

Fabio

 

Clutch was replaced because it was worn out. Sensor was replaced because there was an updated part and owner requested it be installed.

 

As Fabio alluded there is no predicting how long a clutch will last, F1 or stick shift. I have had clients wear out clutches like clock work at 10k miles and others who wore out the car around the clutch. It is entirely up to the operator.

It is a wear item. Drive until it needs one then replace it.

 

Fabio- On the F1 cars, the clutch is always open when stopped, even in neutral. Brian taught me that. The throw-out bearing is a constant contact type, although I am sure pressure varies with mode.

That being said, I am always in neutral, too, when at a stop. The F1 system will select neutral for you after a certain period of time that varies with model, so there must be some reason for being in neutral.

 

Terry,
i thinked that in neutral the clutch is closed by the system ....

However the bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate spring both in manual or F1 clutch control, as all cars with clutch....

On the pedal clutch type, the load at rest on the bearing is due to the two "preload springs" ( this is the name on spare parts catalogue, Table 28) that are on sides the bearing.

On the F1 type, there are the same two "preload springs" on sides the bearing.

At the end with clutch closed the bearing working in same way on the two solutions ....

Spring cod. 155207

 

Fabio- No, the clutch is open on all the F1 Ferraris when stopped in neutral. One less thing for the system to do when a gear is selected. Let me see if I can find a reference for you. It is a safety factor so that when you are in neutral and 1st gear is selected, she does not lurch forward if there is a glitch in the mechanism and the clutch does not open. That has actually happened to F1 drivers who start their F1 Ferrari in 1st gear without selecting neutral first. A low battery can prevent the clutch from opening and their Ferraris have lurched forward.

 

thx for clarifying brian. thought original owner had it replaced because of faulty f1 sensor and that seemed like 'alot' of miles at the time. iirc…it left him stranded at a light (wouldn't go into gear) without any previous signs like clutch slipping etc.

hope you are enjoying texas…

 

Love it here and glad you are enjoying the car.


Could be he had a glitch like that. It was a long time ago now. I do recall it was worn out and a new, updated sensor was out and I do remember he specifically asked for it to be changed. You know him, he was a very knowledgeable owner so I never questioned his judgment.

 

Fabio- One reference from the WSM:

The various clutch control strategies are peculiar to each step:
• during drive reduction, the clutch is opened according to the torque reduction controlled by the engine;
• when there is no drive, the clutch is kept open;
• during torque return, the clutch closing depends on the engine shaft's and the primary gearbox shaft speeds.
Clutch control during gear shifting takes into account the throttle angle (accelerator position) and the engine
revolution ratio: with the pedal pressed right down and high engine revolutions, the clutch control will be set to
sport mode.

The "no drive" proviso applies whether in neutral or when shifting gears.

 

Grazie Terry for the clarification ....

Best