I have started the conversion. 1. I removed the f1 actuators, and all the lines from the transmission. I'll clean up the left over wires later. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Removed the exhaust. Adams Top Tips - Remove the over axle pipes, as it'll give you more room for moving the axles out of the way when pushing back the transmission. Image Unavailable, Please Login
After removing the exhaust, it's time to pull the trans. This is documented in the service manual, but here are yet again... Adam's Top Tips: -Level out the engine with a jack/wood on the bell housing. The more level you can make the torque tube, the easier it comes out. -You need to remove the pullers for the parking brakes so you have enough to scoot the trans back. -When you start moving the trans back, put the axle up and over the trans mount. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Removing the bell housing... You need to disconnect the clutch sensor. There's a red wire that goes up through the engine bay, under the booster, the down the driver side inner fender, and back under the car. My connector gets stuck under the booster, so it can be removed until I remove the pedals... I could just cut it since it won't be needed, but my ocd won't let me do it. View attachment 2348200
Next I removed the shifter mechanism. Just remove the m6 nuts and it pops out as an entire mechanism. Make sure you mark and take picture of the mechanism. Do not forgot to transfer the inner washers. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Installed the selector. Used Reinzosil, as it's rated for gear oil. Removed the studs that were no longer used. Replaced the studs with two bolts, sealing them with ARP thread sealer.
Removed the clutch and flywheel. I packaged it all up and sent it out for a rebuild. Top Tips: The flywheel only goes on in one direction. Unlike most cars that have a dowel pin to mark what rotation the flywheel goes, the 575 does not have one. So mark where the gap in the timing wheel is. If you don't put it back right, the car won't start. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 4327340
Things went down hill when working on the slave cylinder. I had bought a new Hill T/O bearing. It does not worth with F1 Flange. The guide plate and mounts are different. So, I've ordered more parts... The only success here was cleaning out all the lines with brake cleaner. If I were to reuse the F1 bearing, I would replace all the seals. The inner seals are hard to get out. Teflon seals are much easier install if you let them sit in hot water for 5 minutes or so. Image Unavailable, Please Login
You need to pull the trans so that you can at minimum replace the seals on the throughout bearing and modify the trans tunnel heat shield.
Removed the center console. The factory manual is pretty good, besides removal of the center carpet. There's two screws in the bottom back of the center carpet, and you can pull it up and out from the back. You do not need to remove the seats. I did find a rats nest of wires. You would be surprised what a shop charged the previous owner to install this mess . Anyways, I got it mostly cleaned up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't recall if anyone has left the F1 and done a full fabio with a Trev Tune. That would be the natural step before converting.....
There is no mark needed as one of the flying bolt holes sits on a smaller radius than the others, meaning that 2 bolts won't go back in when mounting the flywheel in a wrong position.
Correct, however at a glance, it looks like all the bolts are on the same circle; I spent about half an hour trying and failing to bolt on a flywheel the first time before I realised what was up!
The manual and F1 bearings are slightly different, hence the default I provide is a seal set so you can change out the seals in the F1 bearing for EPDM (suitable for Dot 4 fluid). The alternative is to buy a manual clutch bearing, which annoyingly means you need to buy the corresponding manual bearing flange as well. Doing so does save fiddling about with the bearing seals, but it add a reasonable cost on the new bearing flange. Regardless, awesome job Adam!
Thanks for clarifying the flywheel position, I didn't see the smaller bolts when pulling it off. Great info! My only suggestion for the slave cylinder is to replace the outer blue seals too. I had an issue getting the inner blue seals off without damaging them. I probably would have just ran with replacing those seals if I hadn't already bought a new slave cylinder. I always wanted a v12 Ferrari with a gated shifter. Hence why I am doing the conversion. Thanks for all the help!
Cleaned up the tunnel. Might be a tad over the top, but may as well do it while its out. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Also, removed the K40 radar. The Ferrari dealer did an awful job installing it. They had double sided taped it to the back of the dead pedal and it had of course fallen loose. I guess that's what you get when you pay 3800 to have it installed Image Unavailable, Please Login
great project. enjoy it. if you can at the end, weight all the parts that are removed so that we finally know how much weight the F1 added I have been very curious of that detail and have never been able to have an exact number. Have a great weekend
