I am changing timing belts, pulleys, etc and coolant hoses to silicone hoses. Part 1 Drove car up onto ramps (img 1) and secured step ladder so it does not move on me as I lean over the engine (img 2) MOSTLY follow procedure in WSM 1-removed underfloor section A, and found that some screws/bolts were missing, and then drained coolant from radiator (img 3), I will drain from block later 2-removed air filter housings. I first removed the top of each housing and the air filter inside, then unfastened the two screws to MAF, and pulled up on purge valve to separate from air filter housings 3- the WSM then instructs to remove screws hold the housing to chassis. They are not screws but nuts and only one on the top side to be done, not two 4- WSM then says to undo screw under the housing that is part of a buffer holding the housing to chassis, but there are really two nuts on two buffers, then rotate housing to remove repeat for other side, you will likely need a double jointed socket to remove the nuts, (img 4), end result with removal (img 5,6) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
5- next step is to remove aux belts housings, WSM says there are 3 screws for rh guard and five screws for lh guard. I only found 4 screws for lh guard (img 7,8) The backside of the guard does not show any pedestal support for screw (img 9) aux covers removed, (img 10) 6- WSM next step is to remove aux belts. I am delaying this until I confirm current tension readings in belts. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
7-I then proceeded to remove fuel injector rails from both sides and set them off to the side, (img 11-13) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
8- next step was the throttle bodies and MAF elbow, you need to cut the top of the Oetiker Ear Clamps , (img 14, 15) and separate the MAF elbows from throttle bodies, (img 16) and throttle bodies from air intake (img 17) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
9- then separate secondary air valves from air plenum (img 18) 10- disconnect vacuum hose at end of plenums by cutting the clamp ears, (img 19) 11-then the hoses that connect under the throttle bodies to plenum (img 20) 12- then the 24 little nuts that hold intake manifold on, I found that unscrewing by 8 1/3 turns enabled me to reach in with a telescoping magnet and turn just a tad more and the nut comes off, bring up injector connectors for plenum removal (img 21) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
13- I then tried to lift the intake manifold and although not very heavy it is awkward, so I brought in my engine hoist, (img 22) and gently lift the manifold which allows you to see other hoses that need to be disconnected as they route through channels of manifold (img 23,24) and in particular the hose from coolant expansion tank to radiator which needs the clamp cut at radiator, (img 25,26), also disconnect electrical connectors for fuel injectors at rear, (img 27) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
14- then lift and remove intake manifold (img 28, 29), and cover holes with tape 15- then undo cable ties under MAF elbows and cut clamps at radiator to remove tube (img 30, 31), then remove MAF elbows 16-undo bolts for cable support under throttle bodies and remove throttle bodies, (img 32) 17- I then proceeded to remove top radiator hoses (img 33) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
18- I then removed the rh cover for timing belt, WSM says 3 front screws and 5 back screws, and removed rh cover. 19- I removed the 3 front screws for lh cover and there are 6 not 5 screws on backside. Also discovered my lh cover was broken (img 34) 20- then remove secondary tubes from exhaust manifolds (img 35) and ignition coils and pause (img 36) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Checking aux belt tensions with motoreva I get 130 for generator belt, should be 165 and 105 for water pump belt, should be 125. It has been 5 years since last change timing belt tensions are low on long side, less then 50n hz on short lengths about 100 on rh bank, and 145 on lh bank is this typical after 5 years?
Aux belts should be replaced every 3 years. After 5 years, a little slackening does not sound unusual. Make sure you use the 612 tensiometer numbers for the cambelts, and not the ones in the 575M WSM.
Terry that would be 335-360 hz for the sum of two side of one belt. correct? I now have sums of 150 on rh belt and 200 on lh belt the belts easily move 1/8 inch without much effort
Not sure if this will have much effect on your measured values, but the 550 WSM says to check the tension of the belt for bank 1-6 with piston 1 at TDC during combustion, and the same for bank 1-7, setting piston 7 to TDC. I don't see the same directions in the 575 WSM, and the 2 manuals specify different instruments to make the measurements, so just throwing it out there to consider.
Avimax, the WSM I have for 550 says set the tension after rotating the engine few times and watch the tensioner for maximum stretch then tighten the bolt. Starting at TDC is when you just change the belts ( piston 1 at TDC for both sides).
Maybe it's the Italian to English translation, but that's not how I read it. Regardless, I don't see it mentioned in the 575 WSM so maybe it is not a big deal. I checked tension with piston 1 at TDC and then piston 7 at TDC when I did the belts on my 550.
