left off at (img 36) [ATTACH]
21) now to remove the cam endcaps at the back of the valve covers which have brackets attached (img 37,38, 39, 40) There is very little room back there to access the nuts and one socket head screw. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
22) endcap removed (img 41) Previous techs used threebonds 1211 on the gaskets. Clean well Image Unavailable, Please Login
23) now to valve covers (mg 42) carefully pry up. I used a chisel with soft rubber mallet. Take care not to damage head or valve cover surfaces. Point of chisel needs to be at center of gasket material. Valve covers off (img 43, 44) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
25) now to remove aux belts, (img 46,47)and I noticed that the adjuster apparatus on the generator did not move smoothly. I removed the apparatus and had to lightly file the curved passageway so the sliding bolt would slide the entire path. It was pinching in the middle. (img 48) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
26) and now I decided was a good time to replace the coolant hoses with SRI, so drain the block (img 49). Do not remove the plug entirely or you will splash coolant everywhere. Let it dribble as long as it takes. Remove the water pump (img 50, 51) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
27) remove the water manifold (img 52, 53, 54) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
28) remove the water pipe by removing nut back of head (img 55, 56) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login 29) install new hoses onto water pipe (img57) and install ( img 58, 59, 60, 61) It is a bit of finagling to route the hose around the back of the block and up to reservoir.
30) prepare to reinstall water manifold. I use a nonhardening sealer that I use on my 911 valve covers which stops all oil leaks. (img 62) Just a drop (img 63) on the gaskets just to be noticeable (img64) and put gaskets down ( img 65). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
31)The green o-ring at the rear of the manifold and the black o-ring at water pump need to be replaced. The green o-ring takes two weeks from Italy as there are none is US. (img 66) Then install water manifold (img 67) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
32) now to belts once again. To attach degree wheel remove the aux pulleys and pins ( img 68, 69,) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
33) find top dead center using dial gage through spark plug hole 1 and install degree wheel (img 70, 71) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
34) examine cam alignment markings (img 73,74). I also placed cover back on and used white nail polish to mark cam sprockets ( img 75, 76, 77) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
35) now remove belt pulleys ( img 78, 79) these were the skf bearings and do not look good Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
37) remove cam front covers with seals ( img81, 82) note that the use of 1211 does not inhibit oil movement. It is the o-ring that stops the oil. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
39) clean cam covers, replace seals. Lightly coat o-ring with o-ring lube. I use dow corning molykote 111 ( img 84) I put the thinnest of the VW sealant in the groove. In retrospect it is not needed. Image Unavailable, Please Login
40) install cam covers. I found two studs that came out when I removed the covers ins step 37. One stud had threads stripped where the nut had been tightened. I removed all studs, ran a tap in each hole , cleaned holes and then chased threads on studs. I bought new nylocks. Part is NA from Ferrari http://www.mrmetric.com/product/metric-nuts/metric-nylock-nuts/diameter/M5/material/Stainless-Steel ( img 85) TYhe nuts should come just to top of stud. Image Unavailable, Please Login
41) Noting that cams have not moved I went to reinstall cam sprockets and one of the pins would not fit very well. On each cam end there is a hole not completely through (img 86) So I put sprockets on, installed belts with tension and then found a hole on each sprocket for the pin to fit in (img 87) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
42) then setup my gages to degree cams (img 88). Pausing here to educate myself on ferrari cam timing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fantastic. Thank you. I am following this labour of love and passion. Much appreciated your commentary too. Keep it coming!
at step 32 you need to lock flywheel so as to loosen cam bolts, remove crank pulley and then install degree wheel
