575 service part 3

Some people have posted that removing the harmonica balancer when you do timing may allow the timing drive gear behind the HB to move upsetting your timing. They suggest a short pipe to simulate the HB section. I did not do that and did not see any movement of the timing drive gear.

I left off with dial indicators set up to do cam timing and then posted my findings in
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/question-on-575-cam-timing.562530/

The result is to understand that timing data given in the WSM is for opening and closing of valves where open and close means movement of 0.50 mm.

Cam timing should be
Intake
open after TDC 7 ± 1°
close after BDC 56 ±1°

Exhaust
open before BDC 36 ± 1°
close after TDC 13 ± 1° all at 0.5mm movement.

Timing RH side cams
To start find TDC on combustion stroke with dial indicator in plug hole 1 and set your degree wheel to 0 (img 89, 90)

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Assembly marks on cams should be close to alignment with cam caps. (within 3 mm) If not you may be 180 out of phase, 360 on crank. Adjust if necessary. Once alignment marks are close at 0 on degree wheel, TDC, then pull pins from cam gears. You can pull pin if you lightly apply pressure counter clockwise on crank without moving cam gear and withdraw pin. Install new belt and tension correctly with sum of belt frequencies about 335 -360 hz. I used the Motoreva tool. Install pins in any hole they fit on each cam. You may need to apply light pressure clockwise on crank to enable pin to go in. Now rotate crank a few turns and recheck belt tension. Do it again. Then tighten tension nut to correct torque, 56 Nm. Now you can start actual timing. Mark current pin locations on cam gears with white nail polish.

43) Recheck TDC shows 0 on timing wheel. Set to TDC to start timing.

44) Put dial indicator tip on intake valve tappet surface and set to 0.

45) Slowly rotate crank around 10 degrees but watch indicator on intake. Stop rotation when intake indicator shows 0.5mm. (img 91) Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

46) Now look at timing wheel. If timing wheel shows 7°±1 after TDC, you are good. If not, you will need to pull pin on intake cam gear. Mine was at 3°. (img 92) Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

47) Now rotate crank ~15 degrees backwards and then come back to 7°±1. Insert pin into the hole that lines up. You may need to apply light pressure clockwise on crank to enable pin to go in. It should not be the same hole it was pulled from. (img 93) Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

48) Now rotate crank to open intake valve and watch it start to close. Near 56° after BDC the dial indicator should again measure 0.5 mm. Continue rotation until intake valve opens again and read degree wheel. (img 94) Image Unavailable, Please Login
If not 7°+1 do another full two turns and check timing wheel at 0.5 mm intake opening. If not 7°±1 then repeat until you get it done correctly.

49) Last check is to rotate past TDC to around 18° with cylinder 1 dial indicator reading at 2.43 mm depth of piston and intake dial indicator should read 1.44-1.59 mm. If not adjust as necessary, and recheck intake timing again.

 

50) Then look at assembly marks and rear marks on cam They should be very close. (img 95, 96) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

51) Now repeat for cylinder 1 exhaust valve open 0.5 mm at 36°+1 before BDC and close at 13°±1 after TDC.

Timing LH side cams
Repeat for cylinder 12 noting that TDC for cylinder 12 occurs 65 degrees after TDC for cylinder 1

Timing is now done.

 

Reassemble engine in reverse order noting following
Sealant is put on valve cover gaskets at ends and on rear end plate gaskets. You do not have enough time to put on the brackets behind the valve train at this time while you install on the nuts and screws on valve covers and end plates. The specified sealant will become tacky soon. Just do end plates and valve covers and then come back later to add the brackets, once sealant has cured.

I chose to use non curing sealant on the LH rear cover plates because of the difficulty I foresaw, after doing the RH rear cover plates.
The left side bracket lower left nut is a real PITA. It took me over a half hour to get it on tight because of limited access. My hand cramped several times working this nut.

Be sure the sliders for the aux belts slide up and down before you start to install belts. Use small rat tail file to remove material that inhibits free movement. Install belts with correct tension. Be sure there is a 10mm nut and 10mm thick washer on back of ac belt bolt.

Run a thread die on air cleaner enclosure rubber buffer rod ends to clean up threads. Trust me do this now.

Install air cleaner enclosure prior to installing the air elbow and the throttle body. You will need to lean over from top and stretch your arm under enclosure to reach buffer threaded rod. You need to put on a 6 mm washer, 6 mm lock washer and 6mm nut all at the same time and the turn the nut to engage threads. Then come from bottom with socket to tighten nuts.

Other notes
You will find miscellaneous nuts and screws in the valley under the intake manifold. And several washers below the air filter enclosures in the crevices of the front framework.
Be careful that you have towels or some covers on your fenders covering into about a foot into engine well to stop tools from dropping down behind the fenders.

Complete fluid exchanges as necessary. That should be it.

 

Important: whever you pull cam pins and reinstall, screw in the cam bolt to preclude cam gear movement off from sprocket.

 

on step 45, rotate 350 degrees ( not 10 as I said) after confirming TDC marks at start of combustion stroke, then you will start to come up to intake opening: actual movement of intake tappet starts before 0°

Watch dial indicator more than degree wheel from that point, when you see 0.5mm then look at degree wheel.