Hello, I would like to know if anyone has successfully found a procedure in replacing the F1 fluid without the SD3 tool. The Pentosin or Dextron VI fluid is easy to find, which I understand either can be used, but not "mixed" Perhaps just completely replacing content of the reservoir would be an "easy" option? (obviously one would need to repeat it a few times)
We replace half of the fluid in my 575M's F1 system every year, but we knew what was in there from the start and use Tutela CS Speed. Without knowing what is in there, I would be hesitant to do that. Ricambi now sells Tutela again, but it is around $50/liter. Ask one of the pros, but to change it all and bleed the system, I believe the actuator needs to be removed and you need an SD3 for the bleed procedure.
No, the Pentosin is really designed for power steering and other hydraulic fluid applications, but matches well with F1 hydraulic fluid requirements, especially at low temperatures. Tutela CS Speed is designed for use in Selespeed systems, like the F1 system. Here are the specs on the various fluids, including Valvoline Dexron VI. All are essentially synthetic ATF meeting or exceeding DEXRON III standards. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you Taz, great asset to this community I guess I need to find out what is inside first and then see how I go about replacing it.
Uor dealer in Moscow also uses Tutela CS when changing the fluid. My 575 and Quattroporte now have it in the F1 system. Everything works fine without issues.
Great - how and where do I access the F1 fluid reservoir on the 599? I understand it is in the rear on the transaxle, is this correct? Pictures/diagrams would be very helpful. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello, I have found a seller on eBay that is offering the oil at a very reasonable price (9 EUR per liter) that is recommended for our F1 systems. PM and I will share the link - no affiliation, just sharing an interesting lead.
And, my understanding is you can bleed yourself with without the SD3 by opening and closing the bleed screw when opening the driver's door to actuate the pump. If I decide to do this without the SD3, I will simply rig up a switch to put into the relay socket and actuate the pump as needed while opening the bleed screw on the bellhousing. Then go back and add more fluid, then repeat.
The actuator has to be removed to reach the bleed screw and the actuator must then be aligned properly to reinstall. I bought one of Juri's wiring harnesses that allows turning on the pump manually. My techs have used that to bleed replaced F1 hydraulic lines (manually shifting through the gears), but not the entire system. Not on my 575M, but a 360 with a leaking line.
I was told by a dealership service mgr that Ferrari has no scheduled time on replacing that fluid. So you should be fine.
I am doing more research on the F1 oil, and have found some viable options. The requirement of the F1 system is just a low viscosity fluid - this can be evidenced by the fact that in the 599 manual the same exact fluid for the steering is recommended for the F1. Many here insist on "CS Speed", that is at times overpriced - Alfa Romeos and FIAT also used it , and I am sure the drivers of those cars do not pay 40/50USD for the exact product. It seems the best way to go is fully synthetic, and the options I have are: Motul, CS Speed, and Tutela. I have a personal preference for Motul, but I first need to determine what type of fluid I have inside now - most probably I have the original oil that was added at the factory as the car has very low mileage. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Taz, I am quite sure this is incorrect or at least you are speaking of a secondary bleed screw. The main bleeder for the F1/clutch system is up at the bell housing to bleed the system upon changing a clutch or removing the quick connect on the F1 line from the tranny if the tranny is removed.
Jason- Ask one of the pros, but that is what I was told. Possible they changed it from the 575 to the 612, too. 360- Add this to your list of possible F1 fluids. Recommended to me by one of our pros, even though I still use the Tutela CS Speed. Valvoline's Dexron VI works well, too. Not sure if it is available in Europe. I use it in my power steering system. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
There is no way to bleed the system through to the through-out bearing without a bleed nipple up front.
... there must be a bleeder in both locations. one to flush the actuators and one to flush the run through the TO bearing.
INSTEAD OF PURGING ALL OIL ... This is teh Idea!!! Suck all oil leave some... at botom of reservoir... Add new one ... Please choose the shell Donax was replaced by SHELL SPIRAX S4 ATF - HDX Start car make pump work ... open door use padles etc ... Shut Down Start Again suck oil from reservoir ... add new oil .. Please try not to change brands of oil or try to identify by oil colour ... ))))) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jorge- Yup, that is what we do annually on mine and then every three years swap out the fluid, bleed the system, and reset PIS if necessary. Just need to make sure you do not pull out too much liquid and introduce air into the system. My techs use a turkey baster. You still need to know what fluid is in there initially so you do not get an additive mismatch, like you said.
As you said that "mixing fluids" is the main problem of that solution .... Bypassing bleeding etc . When you catch a low mileage Ferrari with maintenance in order it should be Shell Thanks Boss...
Shell Spirax is ATF and is red in color. CHF 11S is green. CS Speed is amber. It is very easy to see which fluid is in the reservoir. Brian Brown San Francisco Motorsports