599 GTB Multiple DCT Codes (Fuel/Air Related) | FerrariChat
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599 GTB Multiple DCT Codes (Fuel/Air Related)

Discussion in '612/599' started by pj57, Oct 28, 2024.

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  1. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    Dec 13, 2012
    97
    Austin, TX
    #1 pj57, Oct 28, 2024
    Before booking an appointment for my 2007 599 GTB, I thought I’d at least reach out in hopes someone else has experienced the same symptoms and come up with a fix. Here’s the scenario:
    2007 599 GTB with 36K miles;
    1. Boardwalk Ferrari recent 37.5K service, the usual fluids filters plus spark plug change. Variators noted as leaking causing fault code.
    2. Independent Service replaces the four variators, cam cover, intake gaskets. All codes cleared. No recurrence of codes.
    3. Car stored for about a month on trickle charger; upon start-up car is running unusually rough. Car is driven for several miles and engine roughness smooths out, however, “Engine Control Failure” warning light appears.
    I scan with my cheap Maxi AP200 scan tool and the following codes are derived:
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    1. Focus on DTCs from left bank seems logical since exhaust note from right bank seems smooth, while left exhaust outlet yields sputtering, hiccup sounds.
    2. I haven’t driven very far in this condition, but it is burning fuel like crazy.
    3. Idle has increased from its usual smooth 1000 RPM to about 1400 RPM.
    4. Engine runs smoothly at higher RPMs.

    My first thought is MAF sensor. Fortunately, they’re not too expensive and an easy install. But I suppose air leaked in hoses or through the newly installed intake manifold gaskets could also be the problem. I don’t have the facilities to do a smoke test, so the 599 might be headed to the shop. Anybody got any ideas? Am I on the right track? Thanks, PJ
     
  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Central NJ
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    Dominick
    #2 flash32, Oct 28, 2024
    This all seems to be caused by a "weak voltage at start" - i would charge battery up .. clear codes and see if they re-appear ( you may have to disconnect and reconnect battery as well)
    All the codes listed are absent at this point anyway - also - wait for OK when starting again
     
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  3. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    Dec 13, 2012
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    #3 pj57, Oct 28, 2024
    Thanks Flash! The simpler the solution the better. I’ll let you know! PJ
     
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  4. Chindit

    Chindit Formula Junior
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    Oct 18, 2008
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    Nick P.
    #4 Chindit, Oct 29, 2024
    +1 for all of the above. My recent experience has shown that a low battery will often give these "nuisance faults", and that those faults may persist for a time even after you have fully re-charged the battery. I had numerous occurrences of Rain Sensor and Twilight Sensor faults (scanned with AP200 and reported as "missed" on each occasion). The faults completely disappeared after I drove the car more frequently and kept the battery on a battery tender while it was parked, but it took about a week and several drive-cycles for the symptoms to disappear completely. No other maintenance action was done. My point is...these cars have sensitive electrical systems. Step #1 for dealing with random faults should be to ensure that you have a strong battery and that it is fully charged.
     
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  5. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    #5 pj57, Nov 4, 2024
    So far so good! I replaced the battery, erased codes and most of the problems have been resolved. Within a ten-mile drive the car was running smoothly. Idle is still high at 1200-1400 RPM, but I am hopeful that will normalize with more drive-cycles as suggested by Chindit. Thanks again for the spot-on diagnosis!
     
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  6. Chindit

    Chindit Formula Junior
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    Oct 18, 2008
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    Nick P.
    #6 Chindit, Nov 4, 2024
    Another thing to consider. You should absolutely not depress the gas pedal at any time during the start sequence. The start sequence includes a few seconds where the MAFs "auto calibrate" to a known reference position. I have read that depressing the pedal during that time can cause trouble with the MAF positioning. If that is true, then I would expect that the idle speed could be affected. I have a start sequence that I strictly follow: 1) Key to position 1 and wait for all of the beeps and warning lights to extinguish. Use no electrical accessories during that time (takes maybe 5 seconds). 2) Select neutral gear and depress brake pedal. Use no electrical accessories. 3) Key to position 2 to engage starter and allow car to start. Wait until "Check Ok" appears on the TFT screen, followed by the Check Engine light going out. Now you can use electrical accessories....air conditioning and such. 4) Allow water temp pointer to come off the peg. 5) Select gear and drive away!

    Maybe this is overkill but it is my little "Ferrari ritual" and I've had great luck doing it that way. I think it gives the car a chance to get itself sorted out. Hey...at least it makes ME feel better!
     
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  7. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    Dec 13, 2012
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    #7 pj57, Nov 5, 2024
    Chindit - our start-up procedures match to a tee! Seems like I take one step forward and a couple backwards everyday. 599 ran well yesterday. Idle which had been running high most of the day, stabilized to around 1000 RPM just as I was shutting it down for the evening. Unfortunately, today’s drive sent me back to square one with return to 1200-1400 RPM idle and erratic and sputtering left side exhaust note plus horrendous fuel consumption. Here are the most recent scan results. Keep the suggestions coming,Thanks, PJ
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  8. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    #8 pj57, Dec 3, 2024
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2024
    Well, after a month of me trying this, that and another thing, I turned the car over to the independent who replaced the variators, cam cover gaskets, etc., He immediately suspected a vacuum leak and verified same by conducting a smoke test. Anyway, he pin-pointed the leak (see photo below) to the base of one of the intake manifolds. After disassembly, he found a distorted gasket. To his credit, he took full responsibility for his error and was up front about telling me what happened, though he was miffed by how it happened. A couple of takeaways…1) we’re all human and make mistakes and 2) honest techs do exist. Since I wasn’t present during the tear down, he could have told me he found a broken hose or faulty sensor and charged me for it. I would have never known the difference. Thanks Josh!

     

    Attached Files:

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  9. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    #9 pj57, Dec 3, 2024
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  10. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    #10 flash32, Dec 3, 2024
    When was the intake removed ..for what reason ?
     
  11. pj57

    pj57 Karting
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    #11 pj57, Dec 3, 2024
    Intake had to be removed to install cam variators and cover gaskets.
     
  12. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    #12 flash32, Dec 3, 2024
    Oh so the problem started after he replaced the variators ..didn't realize that was the sequence

    I miss understood that while he was fixing the leak he changed the variators ...

    Thanks for clearing that up
     

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