'67 330 GTC Hood Release Cable

I don't know what it looks like specifically, but generally speaking you can make cables like this with stock material from the hardware store or from a lawn mower repair shop. Cut to length and bend to suit.

 

Make sure you get materials that can take some heat. You don't want cable coating melting to cable.

 

Had a throttle cable to that to me once in a Lancia Scorpion. The engine cross member broke, which caused the engine to sag a bit and the plastic cable sheath melted around the cable. Fortunately, it did so after I parked and had turned off the car to see what the hell was going on.

If the sheath you have is ok, you probably should be able to simply remove the existing wire and replace it without changing the wrapping. You'll have to thread it through, but probably doable. Make sure that the thickness of the cable is as close to the existing one as possible, not thicker (or it will bind) and not much thinner (or it will break again).

Alberto

 

Interesting.

Best

 

Yes, but not difficult. Depending on the number and radius of bends, it can be a challenge, but doable.

If using a solid wire inner cable, round the the leading end with a file, as best as possible.

With a stranded inner cable, tin and solder the first 1/4" (not more) to prevent fraying. Don't add so much solder to affect the outside diameter, but that can be addessed with a file, since you'll want to round the end, same as the solid wire.

Perfect opportunity to smear a thin film of grease as you're feeding it through.

 

From your description it seems you're sure about this, but for the benefit of others out there: my 330GTC doesn't always pop the hood and I thought the cable had broken too. It took me ages to work out that, instead, it is the spring mechanism that doesn't work well. If I pull the cable and get someone to press the hood near the front head lights, she always pops open. Just something you might try if you're ever stuck by the side of the road.


Onno

 

I would try a motorcycle supply house that sells the cable and sheath with ends etc. thay can probably make one for you. I did this with the e-brake cable. It turns out that the dimensions of a Harley clutch cable match perfectly.
Morris

 

Another source for cable stuff is a company called Push-Pull in California.

 

It appears that what you have there is an emergency back-up release cable (the braided one) to use if the primary cable breaks. I'm afraid I don't know if that's original or not, it seems strange to use two different types of cable, and the different style of cable end stop. I'd guess a previous owner installed it. Now you have to find the release handle for the back-up cable. It might just be a ring you can grab with a finger.

 

Another source is a parts place that sells vintage Volkswagen parts. Bugs and others use a fairly long braided cable (cannot remember off hand if throttle or clutch, or both), that might work for your application. Best thing is VW prices.

On the second cable in your post, more modern F cars (456 and 550's), have an emergency cable to release hood and trunk; this to override the electronic releases. Don't know if what you have pictured is home brew or not, but if it works I would keep it. Sorry I can't help further. The guys at Tomyang.net may be able to help.

Alberto

 

The secondary emergency cable is a typical installation on a 330GTC. I had to use mine once, and it thankfully worked. It was accessible for me by reaching under the dash to the right of the transmission, or by removing the glovebox.

 

I replaced the throttle cable in my GTC this week and sourced it from the local marine shop which they use for life lines and sails. It is rated at 450 lbs strength compared with the home depot cable I used for the emergency repair to get me off the side of the road which wa only 96 lbs. I put 150 miles on it so so far so good.

 

Resurrecting this old thread... can someone tell me or post a picture of the emergency cable pull knob; where it is exactly, etc.? Thank you in advance.

john

 

Which model ?
On 365 GTB/4, for example, the two hood release emergency/secondary cables are tucked away under the dash, near the each latch mechanisms and do not feature “pull knob”, per se, but are usually formed into a loop with light gray rubber sheathing.
The trunk latch emergency/secondary release cable, also formed into a loop with aforementioned sheathing, can be accessed by opening the fuel filler door and is usually tucked away under the edge of the fuel filler opening.
Fuel filler door doesn’t have emergency/secondary release cable, per se, since its latch mechanism can be manually operated/reached through the (open) trunk.

 

John, the emergency does not have a pull knob, but does have a loop made from the cable with a crush ferrel - usually the look has a small rubber sheeting around it so when u pull it does not cut your finger.

It should be just hanging out or at the location of the dash/glove box, left corner and center console meets. get a light and it should be in there somewhere. not a lot of folks know about this, but it is obviously installed in the event you have a break in the main cable. Additionally, like the trunk latch on the side by the driver, there is also an emergency pull cable there as well - for the same reason.

 

Also - if difficulty in opening the hood and the latch is working, check to see if any of the hood bumpers are binding on the edge of the hood lip. This would keep the hood from doing its slight pop up. Additionally as perviously mentioned, the hood tension rods do the work to pop the hood about 6 inch or less, make sure they are mounted correctly and raised up on the inner fender mounts sufficiently.

 

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sometimes not always visible, so when i restored this car, i made it a little longer so it can be seen or push up and tuck behind the console as u wish.

 

Tom, looking at your pics - if i see it correctly, both cables should be stranded cables - not solid core - i see one solid core one in your pic

solid core will not move easily enough as the primary cable to the inside due to the bends....it needs to float freely

also, make sure your orig cable sheeting is not rusty - that inhibits the free motion. Replacing both the sheathing with the cable is a good practice. new sheathings have nylon inside - do not rust.....