69 Mustang or Jaguar XKE

Jagyouare

 

I know nothing about either car but I love the old Mustang look. The one you have pictured is so awesome I would love to drive that or even see it on the road.

Here's a similar car I am in love with (for sale):
1970 Mustang Mach 1 428

 

With muscle car prices where they are and the bubble unlikely to continue forever.... buy the Jaguar.

I have owned many E-Types. They really are fantastic cars. Get a '65 - '67 Series I 4.2. Forget about series II cars... they suck.

The couple look better to me but the roadsters are great to drive. A series I 4.2 coupe with A/C (rare but aftermarket works great) would make a really wonderful dailey driver.



Terry

 

The 3.8 liter engine was from '61 to '64. They were rated at 265hp but about 220 was more realistic. They have triple SU carbs and 9:1 compression ratio. They rev great, are very reliable and are a joy to drive. However, these early cars have the old Moss non-syncro gearbox and ancient bellows type brake servos. The shifting and braking are lacking. The seats are also buckets with no adjustment and they are uncomfortable.

From '65 to mid '67 they built the 4.2 liter Series I. These cars have a 4.2L version of the Jag 6. Still has triple SU carbs and a the 9:1 compression ratio. Rated at teh same HP but the 4.2 has more torque. More importantly, the 4.2 has modern brakes and a nice 4 speed full syncro transmission plus really great seats and better interior trim. The 4.2 model was a big step forward and they are by far the best of the E-types.

From somewhere in mid '67 to the beginning of '68 you had an unofficial "series 1.5" car. This was a "use whatever parts are in the bin today" version built as Jaguar was transitioning from the series I to the series II. The 1.5's do not have the nice glass covered headlights but they do have the small bonnet opening and small bumpers. Some early 1.5's have the Series I engine, later version have the series II engine (see below). Some early 1.5's have the series I toggle switch dash.... later ones have the series II rocker switches. In short, a very early 1.5 with the triple carbs is a great car. A later 1.5 with dual stromburg carbs..... I would sell it if you gave it to me. The cockpit is the same size on all E-types excepting the 2+2 which was the basis for the later pig called the series III.

From '68 to '71 they built the Series II car. The US market model had the compression ratio dropped to 8:1 and they used dual stromburg carbs in place of the triple SU's. This emasculated the car. The Series II cars are SLUGS. They cannot be made to run properly on the stromburg carbs, they simply are not up to the task. This entire model was in response to new EPA and DOT rules at the time..... it was a mess. The bonnet opening is much larger, the bumpers are big and ugly and the rear taillights are an abomination. The Series II cars will never be collectible like a series I car.

So..... I hope this helps. If you want to know more, PM me and Ill send a phone number. I have owned 30+ E-types and have rebuilt several from the ground up every nut and bolt. I can honestly say I know them pretty well!



Terry

 

William,

Not that you need any help in this department, but women love XKEs.

Not that this would influence your decision.

Dale

 

Are these vehicles difficult to work on? Are there aftermarket electrical harnesses for them; I have 'heard' they are a problem but you can tell me different...

 

The jag.

 

You can get any E-Type part you want, including complete new body shells and panels. New wiring harnesses are available.

The electrical system on an E-Type is very simple and reliable. The biggest problems stem from lack of use. I drove an E-type roadster as my only car for 2 years in college and other than the fact that they all leak in the rain and there is no fix they make great cars. Anyone who can read and use a voltage meter can fix any electrical problem an E-type may get.

Workshop manuals are very good, lots of internet info on the E and in general they are not terrible to work on. A clutch requires the engine and trans to come out. The starter is almost impossible to remove without pulling the engine. The rear brakes are a nightmare of packaging, inboard in a subframe that contains the entire rear suspension, brakes, differential and half shafts. It is very durable however.

On the 4.2 Series 1 cars the brakes are really pretty good. Unless your going to just flog the crap out of the car or track it (bad idea) the brakes will not need upgrading. A bigger radiator plus good/modern electrical fans are a must. The factory fan is an absolute joke, literally. You will laugh when you see the pathetic little twin blades. There are however a number of excellent aftermarket alloy radiators with shrouded fans available.

The later series II E-types had A/C from teh factory. While the compressor and evaporator and such sucked and you would want to use later modern stuff the fan blower motor and assembly along with the interior vents, hoses and switches are nice pieces. Just about all the 2+2 Series II cars had this A/C and most of those have long since rusted to oblivion. They are ugly and worth very little..... so lots of them exist as parts cars. You can find these factory A/C parts for not tons of money.

The rest of the interior (other than stereo) is actually very nice and needs no upgrading.

Tires..... you will find that the factory wire wheels do not enjoy much wider rubber. Dayton sells a much better 6" diameter wire wheel that looks just like the factory unit but is stronger. You can run 205/55R15's on these Dayton chrome wires and the cars handling is transformed plus it looks right. Go with a bigger front anti-roll bar, solid block steering rack mounts and upgraded shocks and the cars handle ok. They have lots of understeer at the limit. On the racecars they stiffen the chassis and tighten up the rear bar such that with the LSD and lots of power they can induce power on oversteer to use in balancing the inherent understeer but on a street car you would never live with the resulting ride.



Terry

 

Certainly can't speak with the authority Terry can about all the mechanical aspects, but the later series 1 had more forgiving seats, although the early cars had that nice turned aluminum dash, right?
There was one floating around NYC for a while that was an early car with the later gearbox and later seats.
I know that there are a couple of companies in England that bring these babies up to date, for a considerable price. Is there a 'used' market for those? I would imagine a full round of upgrades would be pretty costly to undertake, piece by piece, on your own.

 

Why all the hate for the V12? Surely it can't be THAT bad... can it?

 

William, I have a buddy who has a street-legal D replica. Do you want me to check to see if he wants to sell? It will not be cheap. He paid big money for it a couple of years ago at Pebble.

Dale

 

E-type, V12 only, preferably hardtop, grigio ingrio exterior with whitewalls. Smashing, simply smashing baby.



Forza,



Cavallini

 

The car pictured is a 1970 model.

 

Such a wealth of knowledge, many thanks.

How does it ride, handle, feel on the road, or compared to other models old and new?


Forza,


Cavallini

 

William
That mustang you posted is a 1970,
1969's have 4 head lights and a side scoop.
Both nice tho, but a jag would be so cool.