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77 308 Waterpump Housing

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by JTranfield, Dec 19, 2005.

  1. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

    Dec 29, 2003
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    #1 JTranfield, Dec 19, 2005
    If I am removing the waterpump and thermostat housing in one piece is it as simple as just taking off the 7 nuts and it should be free of the block once the hoses are disconnected? Is there anything else hindering removal once belts, AC and covers are removed? Obviously then I can split the pump and therm housing etc carefully. I have researched all the previous links on this and cannot find this
    specific question.
     

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  2. 4Webers

    4Webers Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2003
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    Darrell
    #2 4Webers, Dec 19, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

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    #3 JTranfield, Dec 20, 2005
    Thanks for the photos, I just spent an hour or so with penertrating oil and a rubber mallet but is still locked solid. Not much room to tap against the right area. Will soak it again tomorrow and have another go. Failing that I guess the best thing is to remove the actual studs.
     
  4. 4Webers

    4Webers Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2003
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    Darrell
    #4 4Webers, Dec 20, 2005
    Mine is a '79 but I don't believe there is any big difference in the housing/mounting configuration than with yours. Shoot some penetrating oil in/around the studs as they are probably corroded to the WP housing.

    Also, if you want the 'small' waterpump bearings I have, they are yours for the cost of shipping. I made the cardinal sin of ordering parts before verifying what was actually on my car. PN 103877. I also have the inner washer, PN 102783, circlip, PN 11059476, and good used lock washer, dome nut, and woodruff key.
     
  5. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

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    #5 JTranfield, Dec 21, 2005
    Thanks for the offer will check the bearings as soon as its off. It has only recently had a replacement pump fitted (3 years) so it may be the new version already.

    Right now its still not moving so I am borrowing a stud remover, will let you know of progress.
     

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  6. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    #6 robertgarven, Dec 21, 2005
    I had to double nut the studs and after they came out it just fell off. I used a pry bar and had to but a new housing. Remove the studs and dont repeat my mistake!
     
  7. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie

    Jan 22, 2003
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    #7 Martin308GTB, Dec 23, 2005
    it can be seen on the pictures, that you have the later version with bolts and helicoils, which is a lot easier to remove than the older version with the four nuts with studs, which tend to corrode solid.

    Best Regards from Germany

    Martin
     
  8. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

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    #8 JTranfield, Dec 24, 2005
    Yes thats the problem I have, they are corroded solid. I have managed to remove three studs with a stud remover but the 4th won't budge. Have re pen oiled everything and will try again after Christmas. Will also have to order and replace all 4 studs.
     
  9. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #9 Ricambi America, Dec 24, 2005
    Have you tried PB Blaster yet? It's a miracle penetrant.
     

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  10. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #10 Verell, Dec 25, 2005
    Once you've given PB Blaster several days & doses to soak thru, try gentle heat:

    Put the fuel pump in a 250 - 275F oven for half an hour to heat soak it. This will maximize expansion of the Al, & tend to break it loose from the steel studs.

    Then while it's still hot, separate it. Reheat as necessary.

    BTW, when you're ready to remove the WP bearings, again reheat the wp nose. Usually the bearings will almost slide out w/o much pressing force.
     
  11. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

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    #11 JTranfield, Dec 27, 2005
    I have managed to get of the water pump which was no problem as it was quite new. Its the rear housing stuck to the block thats the problem. In hindsight I should have just change the pump but wanted to clena evrything up and make it easier to replace therea hoses etc.
     
  12. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

    Dec 29, 2003
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    #12 JTranfield, Dec 29, 2005
    Well after a week of penertrating oil etc I decided it was time to use a stud remover. Two came out OK the other two snapped off! No big deal really as I have removed the waterpump already and there is still room to get to the studs. I will now just try more oil and gentle tapping and eventually hopefully it will losen up. Still I cannot believe how difficult its been to get the housing off so far. As an earlier poster stated in must be the early 308s that are harder.
     
  13. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie

    Jan 22, 2003
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    #13 Martin308GTB, Dec 30, 2005
    definitely. I have the later design with bolts and helicoils and removed my waterpump two weeks ago and though two bolts were badly rusted, they came out without problems.
    You can also try the help of a hot air blower around the area where the studs are stuck inside the engine block. Since the aluminium casting expands more than the steel studs when applying heat this will probably help too.
    Be careful especially with the two upper ones, because raw force may crack the block casting.

    Best Regards

    Martin
     
  14. JTranfield

    JTranfield Formula Junior

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    #14 JTranfield, Jan 4, 2006
    Well thanks for everyones help I finally got the studs and housing off using heat and I borrowed on of the new style stud removers from my friends at the local Jag dealership. I will be buying new studs and treating them before installation. Now on with the belt and tensioner change while I am "in there".
     

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