'77 512 Hot Start issue...suggestions? | FerrariChat

'77 512 Hot Start issue...suggestions?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by SFM5s159, Jun 7, 2015.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. SFM5s159

    SFM5s159 Karting

    Jan 22, 2014
    97
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Mike C
    All,
    My '77 BB has a hot start issue it seems. Does not want to crank after a few minutes shut off hot. Here are a few of the items we've checked:

    1. Battery good. 800 CCA or something like that.
    2. Timing is more or less correct. I have a little less advance in the car right now. Distributor advance seems to function fine.
    3. Starter seems okay from visual inspection of brushes and comm.

    We measured voltage at the starter while attempting to crank and it was a bit low at around 8.5 volts. Not sure what it should be.

    What is the route of the positive battery cable to the starter?
    Does anyone know if there is a given amount of torque that it takes to crank the motor? I could use a torque wrench possibly to see if the motor is too "tight".

    Are starters available for the cars? What is the correct battery? I think its a group 27.

    This is the silver car that was the subject of an extensive thread with a lot of restoration pictures. I acquired the car early last year from the owner who had it restored.

    Any suggestions would be welcome.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,839
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Do you mean:

    1. Nothing at all happens, or

    2. the solenoid actually moves (engaging the pinion gear to the ring gear), but the starter motor doesn't seem to engage, or

    3. The solenoid moves (engaging the pinion gear to the ring gear), and the starter motor does try to spin the engine but can't?

    Are you measuring this on the large main +12V battery cable or on the start command wire connected to terminal 50 of the solenoid? And under what condition -- 1, 2, or 3?
     
  3. SFM5s159

    SFM5s159 Karting

    Jan 22, 2014
    97
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Mike C
    Once in a while I get a starter "click" where it does not engage, but I have an idea of what that is, that is not my main problem.

    #3 is the scenario I encounter. The starter will engage the flywheel but does not seem to have enough torque to turn the motor. We are measuring the +12 battery cable at the solenoid during the condition where the starter is engaged and not turning the motor. This is where we see a little under 8.5 volts. It's being pulled down.

    Also, to clarify, the car starts fine cold. I'm thinking the starter is "weak" when hot or that we have too much advance, but I don't think timing is the issue. I also don't think it's a fuel loading issue. Carbs are right; they do not seem to load the cylinders with fuel.

    Thanks.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,839
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, that's normal (due to the internal resistance of the battery when huge current is flowing). If the starter motor was actually turning (and developing some back EMF), the voltage wouldn't droop quite so much, but getting down to 9~10V when the starter motor is actually cranking is typical/normal.

    Have to agree -- either weak starter or weak battery. If the current is high (like >150~200A) during the starter motor stalling period = that would be a sign that the starter is weak. You can usually get the battery "load tested" at an Auto Part chain store (if you can't test the actual current in-situ). If the battery is OK, that would be more evidence to try a starter-ectomy or rebuild.

    If the ignition timing was too advanced, I think it would initially crank, but you'd get more burping/farting/backfiring up the carb stacks -- are you getting any of that?
     
  5. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    9,545
    southwest Germany, France ( Alsace ) and Thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    only 8.5 V is low
    I once had the same or nearly teh same problem with a mercedes. there the battery was not good anymore. so if you have the possibilty to jumpstart then try this. when the starter will turn then the crankshaft you need a new battery. when you have a battery tester you may check if there are still the complete amp available. my battery only had about 30 % of the max amp. for starting cold it was ok, but not when the engine has been warm.

    you may check the battery voltage directly at the battery when starting or when you try to start and see how many V are at the battery. if also only 8.5 V I think the battery has seen better days.

    easiest way first is to try to jumpstart. good luck
     
  6. SFM5s159

    SFM5s159 Karting

    Jan 22, 2014
    97
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Mike C
    #6 SFM5s159, Jun 8, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2015
    Battery checked good; static voltage is 12.6 I think. I also load tested it at the parts store, it was good.
    Don't know the current being pulled by the starter.

    No popping or spiting, car runs well, just won't start hot!
    I did try a small jump box at the battery but it didn't give it enough oomph to get starter going. I am thinking starter more...

    It's a Fiat part. I haven't located a new starter yet...

    Thanks!
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,839
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Only other possibility is that there might be a poor connection in the battery primary wiring/grounding. The later BB512 OM doesn't show a battery cut-off switch (so I'd assume your earlier car doesn't have one either), and, since you've had the battery out and in to test, the battery post connections should be fresh/clean, but that does leave where the negative battery cable connects to the chassis.

    You should be able to get the starter rebuilt/tested by an auto electric rebuilder shop (at the non-F price ;)).

    Do please let us know what gets it working.
     
  8. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    9,545
    southwest Germany, France ( Alsace ) and Thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    the battery in the mercedes also has been good in static condition: 12,8 V
    so please try to jump start and see what will happen
     
  9. Jaguar 15

    Jaguar 15 Formula 3

    Mar 27, 2013
    1,837
    Hunt. Bch/Palm Dsrt/Virginia
    Full Name:
    Jim Crawford
    Had this problem once on a late '70s Porsche. I installed a GM ignition solenoid...problem over. I later changed the starter.
     
  10. SFM5s159

    SFM5s159 Karting

    Jan 22, 2014
    97
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Mike C
    So I checked the chassis ground on the car and it was a little loose where it bolts to the frame right behind the battery.
    Does anyone know how the engine is grounded? I haven't found a strap. I am assuming the rubber mounts somewhat isolate the engine. I would think there should be a ground strap somewhere?
     
  11. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,839
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson

Share This Page